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MG MGA - Questions about rechroming parts

Does anyone have advice regarding getting the chrome redone on various parts (bumpers, grill, etc)? What is your experience or opinion on rechroming vs. buying replacement parts?

Do the platers typically repair the parts or do the parts need to be in perfect condition before bringing them in?

What can I expect to pay?

Lastly, can anyone recommend a plater in Oregon or SW Washington?
MGA Larry

Larry, a quick google of "custom chroming" for your area will yeild you some good leads.

Typically they can handle minor imperfections i.e drill holes, pits, dents etc.

They can direct you to someone who has the skills for a wholesale recreation or major repair.

I would benchmark the break point for replace vs. rechrome at $75 or so.
T McCarthy

Hi Larry,
Pleased to see you made it back home, and assume the engine etc survived the trip. As we mentioned when you were here, sometimes it is not only the cost of new versus rechroming that should be considered. Sometimes the original part may cost more to rechrome but will look better than the modern replacement. The bumpers are an example of this. Also good rechroming may outlast examples of new parts from the Far East. (and I don't mean New York!)The front grill is an example of this.
For good chromers, ask around with any bike rebuilders/customisers - HD people usually demand the best, and rechromers don't mess with the biker gangs!
Difficult to give price examples as the more complex the part, the more it will cost to rechrome. Rims, for example, are hard to do, while windscreen frame parts are easier.
It was good to meet you and your brother.
Peter.
P. Tilbury

Hi Peter,
The Harley Davidson suggestion is a great one, I'm sure your advice is dead on. Is it better to do everything at once, or is it the same price to do things piecemeal?

We had a very easy drive to Gig Harbor, arriving around 8:30. Customs barely even looked at the parts and never even mentioned any duty fees.

I don't know if you notice or not, but the engine has an electric block heater installed. Didn't you say the car was from Kenya?

Thanks for all your hospitality and help.
MGA Larry

Larry,

I had all my chrome done for about $1,800 3 years ago. Some of the smaller badges are very expensive if you want them perfect due to the type of material they are made of. It is probably not worth it to do the badges, buy repos. It is probably better to get all the parts done at on time.

Mark
M Gannon

Good chrome takes good money. Obviously, you will have to rechrome the parts that are not available as repro such as the windshield frams. The other parts are pretty much up to you. If you are going for a good driver, I'd recommend buying the repro parts. Even though the croming will be not great, it should hold up to the use most of these cars get for at least ten years. We no longer drive them in the salty snow and they get waxed more often than when the cars were new.

That being said, I had problems with the rechroming of my windshield frame. Several of the pieces went back for rework and even then the chrome on on piece has flaked off in places.

In repro's I'd look at the quality and accuracy of the piece first and the chroming as a second. The shape of the repro will be spotted from further away than the poor chroming.

Just my opinion.
C Schaefer

I have had alot of "vintage" motorcycle parts chromed over the years. The pricing is determined by the amount of preparation work (polishing, repairing, etc.) the part requires before the chrome process begins. Accordingly, straight, flat items are easier to polish than items with alot of corners, radiuses, nooks and crannies.

Scott
SAC Scott Curtis

Larry, I had my front bumper and windshield trim chromed. The little parts like the vents, and emblem, light rings I just bought. The difference is night and day with the reproduction bumpers and window trim. If you can splurge on re-chroming an "Original" piece definitely do it! The repo bumpers are junk and you can spot them a mile away. I have a repo rear bumper on mine but am looking on ebay for an original that I will rechrome and swap out. I wouldn't bother with the windshield grab handles. These are 'White Metal”. after I spent money to rechrome they cracked at the acorn bolts. The repos look just as good so I would buy them new. I bought my Grill from "Jorge". the grill is nice but the chrome Sucked! I will be sending this out for re-chrome as well
Good Luc!



WMR Bill

I used Paul's Chrome Plating for my Coupe parts. Yes, they are expensive, but boy are they good! Several pieces had dings and dents. One piece need some brazing. I made notes for them, even some sketches. Every thing can back PERFECT. I did buy some repro parts (bumpers, wiper etusions, etc) Not even close to the level of the replated parts. One thing to watch out for...plating build up. Several small screw holes had to be drilled out to avoid twisting off self tapping screws (ask me how I found out :) I also had to file some pieces (non visible areas) to get them assembled.
Good luck,
GTF
G T Foster

Larry,
One thing I should have mentioned, with Paul's chrome you start by contacting them regarding your needs. You then ship them the parts. They inventory everything, send you photos and a price quote. You don't like the price, they will ship it back any or all of it. It ain't cheap....depending what you need you'll spend $2K-$5K, possibly more. A rough (very rough) ball park is $100-$150 for small pieces, $200-$500 for larger pieces, >$1000 (and up) for big parts.

GTF
G T Foster

I worked for a major plating company here on the East Coast many years ago (too many years ago!), and as a result of what I learned, cost (new vs. replate) & the item itself (is it hard to replace? is it a very visible item/focal point of the vehicle?)plays a significant role in whether I buy new or replate. Rechroming, when done propely, will outlast and outshine much of the repo market. Lots of plating today is only 2 stage, nickel under chrome. Triple chrome plate is better (copper/nickel/chrome), and in some shops now they place 2 layers of nickel over the copper (bright and brighter)& then the chrome; nickel is what actually provides the shine. If you have parts that are damaged/pitted, and if you pay for it, the plater will first strip all previous finishes to get down to bare metal & polish the piece as best possible (you want a very smoth surface for plating, not rough). A layer of copper is applied and then burnished off. This process is repeated until the copper fills in all "low" areas. Then the final copper/nickel/chrome layers are applied; you get "show" level results. Lots of changes have occurred in the plating industry and many shops have closed down due to the stringent EPA requirements, lots of heavy metals and acids are used in the process. If you find a good shop, you will pay, but if they are good, then the quality of their work will show.//nk
N Kopernik

This thread was discussed between 10/09/2008 and 12/09/2008

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