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MG MGA - Rear Shock Links
How do you refit a rear shock link after it has been removed? Thanks, Christopher |
Christopher Wilson |
The link runs from the "spring clamp bracket" (term?) to the shock lever. I guess I don't understand the question. As it should be a rather easy fit. Fit it loosely to the lever arm and then rotate the shock lever as far as necessary to insert the lower end of the link into the bracket. It should be as easy as that. If not then somethjing must be wrong. |
C Schaefer |
Sorry, I meant after being separated from the shock lever. Currently my links are not attached to the shock levers and I was wondering how you get them attached to the shock lever itself? Is there a special tool for this? Thanks, Christopher |
Christopher Wilson |
Christopher, My shock links just bolt on to the shock. The link has a bolt built in both ends and you just use a nuts and washers. Jim |
Jim Ferguson |
Your shock link should look like the attached photo. At both ends are rubber mounted studs. It should be fairly straight forward as to how to attach it at both ends.
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C Schaefer |
OK please see attached image. My link is only threaded on one side and it took some blows with a hammer on the shock lever to get it off. Much like a tie rod end I suppose, but it refuses to go back in. So is there a trick to this? Thanks, Christopher |
Christopher Wilson |
I think the fit is a taper. Have you tried to just tighten it down with the nut. Also clean and lubricate the taper. I don't think that the fit on mine is "tight" where you indicated on the image. The joint has to be able to move |
Jim Ferguson |
Jim, yeah it will tighten with a nut, but the other link on the car doesn't have as much of a gap so I thought it should close up some more. I didn't want to apply too much force and mess up the threads on the link. Or too little and not reassemble properly. I'll try some lubricant on the taper and see if that is better. Next time you have a look at your car can you let me know about how much of a gap you've got there? Thanks and Happy New Year! Christopher |
Christopher Wilson |
Happy New Year all. Christopher, how was it before you removed the link ? It looks like the taper on the link is smaller dia than the tapered hole. Did it come from the same place? |
A Pearse |
A Pearse, Here is a pic of an original link and lever in the process of being cleaned. This one has never been apart. Cheers, Christopher |
Christopher Wilson |
The space between the shock lever and the tubular body of the link is unimportant if everything fits properly and tightens up. As you say, it is a tapered fit much like a tie rod end. Make sure there is no burr on the inner or outer taper or the hole in the lever is not out of round. Then just torque everything up. |
C Schaefer |
Probably best to tighten this, and the bottom end on the spring plate, when the car is on the ground, then you will not have a twist in the rubber bush when at rest. Same for the spring bushes front and rear of the leaf spring, and the steering/suspension bushes etc on the A frame and stub axle at the front. Peter. |
P. Tilbury |
From the pictures those two parts look different. The first has a stud vulcanized into the rubbure bush. The second is attached with a through bolt. Not sure which is "correct" but, as long as the rubber is good, both should work. It's been a while since I've had mine off but I don't remember that joint being a taper. Obviously the through bolt isn't tapered and would wear the lever hole quickly if the hole is tapered and it got loose. Hope this helps, Bill Hope this |
Bill Eastman |
This thread was discussed between 01/01/2009 and 06/01/2009
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