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MG MGA - Remove floorboards to pull engine?
According to the Haynes Manual, I have to remove the floorboards to pull the engine and tranny. Is this really necessary? --Thanks! |
JM Morris |
No |
Art Pearse |
To remove the trans, you do have to pull the shift housing which needs to be accessed from above. Remove the carpet and the access panel to get to the bolts. |
Chuck Schaefer |
Pulled my 1622 using tips from this board back in December. Getting the shifter turret removed was definitely the hardest part. I took a couple of notes here: http://www.mgexperience.net/journal/chuckmosher/5535 Chuck |
Chuck Mosher |
Only recently I had my engine and tranny out of my 1500. I did not have to remove any floor boards to get them out. It is not recommended to pull out both units still bolted together. I found the best way to do the job is to go for removing the engine first, which should come out easy enough, and to pull out the gearbox would then be a piece of cake. The gear shifter is removed from inside the car, disconnect the speedo cable from the side of the box, unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the side of the clutch housing( no need to disconnect the hydraulic pipe) and lastly remove the rubber mounting bolt(support the gearbox on a small jack or something strong enough to take the weight). The gearbox can then be lifted out from inside the engine bay by one, fairly strong, man. I don't think I left anything out, but I'm sure if I did someone will raise the issue. Frank |
F Camilleri |
I did miss something out, which is very important, the gearbox has to be drained of oil before removal. Frank |
F Camilleri |
It's easy to take the engine out without removing anything to do with the car structure (even the hood /bonnet can stay in place) My record is less than an hour to take it out and about two and a half to put back in and get running. |
dominic clancy |
If you take the engine out with the gearbox attached (as I have always done), you also need to remove the gearbox dipstick. Otherwise, it will catch on the underside of the tunnel. An adjustable angle engine sling will also help as you need to change the angle as the engine comes out to clear the sump and the crankshaft pulley over the bonnet latch panel. It helps if you tie back the bonnet to its highest point using a rope to the rear bumper, as this gives more room to work. Peter. |
P. Tilbury |
Thanks, folks! Just what I needed! |
JM Morris |
I take the bonnet right off and put it somewhere safe myself. It simply gives you so much more room at the rear of the engine bay. Pete |
P N Tipping |
This thread was discussed between 08/03/2011 and 11/03/2011
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