MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGA - Removing 18V engine and T9 gearbox

The core plug behind No 4 cylinder has blown so the engine has to come out. The engine has the 18V backplate, MGB clutch and Peter Gamble bell housing. The unit was installed when the body was off and removal looks tight.

Does anyone please have any suggestions on removal as a unit? Should I remove the crankshaft pulley and unbolt the steering rack?

Thanks for your suggestions.

Cheers

Dave
Dave Adams

I unbolt the bellhousing from the engine and simply lift the engine out. It pulls out above the steering rack so I have found no need to even remove the pulley. Just raise the front of the engine slightly higher than the rear when you slide it forward. Have a jack or blocks under the bellhousing to assist and take the weight when the engine disconnects.

Steve
Steve Gyles

This is what the Betson bolt was designed to get around - no need to take out the engine, and only works with 18V engines with their original high backplate!

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_105b.htm
dominic clancy

I hadn't heard of the Betson Bolt Dominic, it looks like a really clever idea.
It looks like it would save you hours of work Dave.

I think I would have to study carefully how it fits to fully understand the process. Maybe Chris Betson has some pictures on his website.

I have just fitted an 18v engine into my car Dave and it is a straightforward job but it did take me some time to do it, probably because I wanted to do it on my own.
If you do end up taking out the engine,remember to make a note (or take lots of pictures) of which way around the bell-housing set screws (bolts) all fit into the engine as some of them cannot be fitted once the engine is back in place. I made a cardboard mock-up of the bell-housing with notes on each hole saying which way around the bolts need to fitted.

Cheers

Colyn
Colyn Firth

Just had a look at my 18V. i cannot see how it works with the MGA backplate most of us adapt to the Type 9. The link Dominic provided did say it would only work with the 18V and MGB backplate & gearbox.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Thanks for the advice. I had the engine, gearbox and propshaft stripped for removal and was torn between the removal of the engine only and Domonic's suggestion of the Betson bolt.

I looked at both options and realised that the heads of the top two bolts between engine and bell housing were under the toe boards, since I had not opted to cut back the spot faces in the bell housing. That made separating the engine from the bell housing pretty much a non-starter.

So I have decided to go for the Betson bolt and have made a variant on the original out of a piece of 35x5mm strip long enough to be able to hold it in place. On to this I riveted a 25mm diameter washer to engage in the hole in the back plate and then tapped the centre 3/8UNF, per Betson. Paint is drying and I will fit it tomorrow with some jointing compound on the plug and hope for the best.

Then replace all the other core plugs that I obviously did not clout hard enough in the first place, rebuild all the removed bits and start again with carb tuning.

I hope it will all work out OK!

By the way, has anyone managed to remove an 18V with big back plate, HiGear bell housing and T9 gearbox in one lump, please? And any advice or suggestions if you have managed to do it.

Any suggestions gratefully received.

Cheers

Dave



Dave Adams

Not me Dave. I always split them. Never had any problem with access to those two top bellhousing bolts. I can usually get the engine out in about two to three hours. Have done it faster but getting too old for rushing it.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Steve and Colyn

Thanks for yor input. It seems that you have used the smaller MGA backplate which has kinder bolting than that of the 18V and is overall smaller. If I ever have to remove the bell housing and gearbox I will cut back the spot faces on the bell housing so the two top bolt heads are accessible from the engine compartment. I thought about doing it originally but could not bear to cut up the beautiful bell housing.

Cheers

Dave
Dave Adams

Dave

Seems odd that you can't access those bolts. Same block dimensions as the 1500 so they should be well forward of the firewall. Photo of my 18V access.

Steve


Steve Gyles

Steve
your picture looks exactly the same as my car, in that I can get spanners onto both nut and bolt.
Perhaps our High-Gear engineering alloy bell housings are slimmer than that on Daves car.
Can you post a picture sometime Dave? and also let us know how the Betson Bolt works out.

Cheers
Colyn
Colyn Firth

Dave sent me a mail, so I have popped out of retirement to add to the discussion.

The new core plug should be edge coated with a sealant, preferably a Loctite permanent type - not silicone - and placed into the cleaned and dry recess in the block, then the bolt put into place and tightened to just touch the plug, then tightened at least another full turn (depending on coarseness of the thread) so that the centre of the plug is pushed level with outer edge.

For extra security the bolt can be left in place, in which case I would put another drop of the Loctite onto the bolt where it goes through the washer to stop it vibrating loose.

As for installing an 18V with type 9 box as a complete unit, then yes it can be done as long as the chassis crossmember hasn't been bent upwards at some time!

The tail of the gearbox has to inserted to one side of the old geabox mount bracket and once in place, lifted up and over to sit centrally.
Chris at Octarine Services

Chris

Many thanks for your advice and guidance. I have used a 3/8 UNF thread so I imagine that 3 or 4 turns will be necessary to get the compression you are recommending.

Good to know the engine and gearbox can be removed as one unit. I will make a note as to which side the gearbox tail has to be positioned for removal, if the Betson solution does not work.

I am trying to upload the picture Colyn requested but I deleted the first effort since it was inverted and now it won't let me try again

Cheers

Dave
Dave Adams

Here is the picture of the HiGear bellhousing with the standard 18V back plate.

I inverted the picture in its file but it still arrived here inverted.

Cheers

Dave


Dave Adams

Thanks to all who input into this question. I used the Betson bolt concept, altered slightly. Barney has just posted my thoughts as an addendum to CO-105B.

Chris Betson did confirm that an 18V and Type 9 gearbox can be removed as an assembly if the tail of the gearbox is lifted to one side (not specified) of the original gearbox rear bracket.

Cheers

Dave
small

This thread was discussed between 05/06/2016 and 28/06/2016

MG MGA index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGA BBS is active now.