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MG MGA - replacing front king post seals

I am anticipating my new wheels and tires arriving tomorrow. Before putting them on and making the frame a roller again, I want to change the seals on the front suspension kingpost and upper and lower links.

I has planned to do it tonight, but it seems that I have to completely disassemble the hub from the outside in to do so - as I can't spin off the lower swivel since its angle causes it to hit the back of the brake housing.

Do I really have to do this? Or can I gain enough clearance removing the four nuts on the back side? The brakes and bearings were already renewed (by the PO) - shame to take it all apart, not to mention the time and effort (and delaying my progress).

JIM in NH

JIM
AJ Mail

Yes, and no. The brake packing plate has to be removed to remove the lower swivel link. And, the bearing hub has to be removed before the backing plate can be removed.
Barney Gaylord

Jim,

You mention that the brakes and wheel bearings have been worked over. If you are going the tear down the front end to replace the swivel seals there are a number of other items that would benefit from a closer look and perhaps some R & R. Things to consider include rebuilding the shocks, replacing all of the rubber bushings, carefully checking the bottom a-arms for elongated holes on the wheel end and cracks around the welds on the engine end, bent or rusted swivel pins, worn trunion bushings, broken or damaged rebound buffers/mounts, tie rod ends, steering rack boots and whatever other gremlins you may uncover.

Take a look at the information on Barney's site for details, http://mgaguru.com/. In all it is a lot of work, but in my opinion safety should be a prime consideration.

John



jjb Backman

I have already attended to many of the items you mentioned. The one that I was ignoring for now are the rubber boots on the tie rod ends as they are really really hard to get apart and I don't own a pickle fork. 'Sides, they can be done later on without pulling the car apart.

The bearings and brake shoes are new (well, were new when the PO put them in the car right before I bought it). But, it will be a good opportunity for me to go through them again to be sure everything is in order.
AJ Mail

NEVER USE A PICKLE FORK!!!@!
Not on any part you want to reuse. I have been a professional mechanic for years, owned my shop since 1981 and don't own a pickle fork and never will. Wrong tool for the job.
This is one time that the correct tool is a BFH (Big F*&%$# Hammer) With the nut loosened a few turns but not removed you strike the side of the steering arm while prying on the joint. The shock of the hammer blow releases the taper fit of the tie rod end and it pops off.
In the enclosed picture the cotter pin is in and the nut is tight because this is just for show and tell. The pry bar off to the right is not usually necessary. What is necesarry is a manly attitude and a two handed swing. Swing for the fences. Put down the purse strings and HIT it. If it does not come off you are being too timid.
On a little car like an MG it should be easy to get off. This method works on big balljoints on big cars.



R J Brown

This thread was discussed on 09/10/2009

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