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MG MGA - replacing front supension bushings

Hi everyone,

I've decided that it's finally time to replace the bushings in the front since as you can see, the old ones are pretty shot:

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/6255/sany0111qv2.jpg

Oddly enough, it doesn't seem to ride badly.

Is there any advice anyone would like to give besides RTFM and make sure you have a jack under the spring? Is it a must to replace the rubber in this joint (sorry, I don't know the name):

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/2791/sany0116zq9.jpg

Thanks,

Darian

Darian Henderson

Darian,

To do it correctly you should replace all the rubber bits from the A-arm mounts at the crossmember on out. You should go through the king (swivel) pins and trunions to make sure they are in good shape replacing the rubber as you go. The lower trunions may have issues with the distance tube being rusted in place and needing to be pressed or machined out.

This is not a difficult job and reading the manually carefully will ensure that you do it correctly. I'm sure Barneys site has much info.

One commonly discussed option is which type of bushings to use. Some like original, some like the BV8 version and some like eurothane. As listed each is stiffer than the previous and I believe most go with the BV8 option.

This is a weekend job not counting the possible machine work.

Have fun!

John
J Bries

Darian. Spray the areas you will be working on with a good cleaner, then rinse off. Any oil, dirt, or grease removed by the cleaning is oil/dirt/grease you do not get on you as you are working. Also allows a better inspection of the parts before tearing the system apart.

Speaking of tearing the system apart, the upper nut, the one on the kingpin which holds the trunnion that connects to the dampeners should be loosened first. No need to remove the nut completely. Better if you do not. But, it needs to be loosened first as it will be very difficult to loosen it when the other bolts have been removed.

Inspect the pieces which form the lower A arm carefully. You frequently see the hole that the bolt holding the lower end of the kingpin had elongated over the years. In such cases, the holes have to be repaired or the pieces replaced. I have also seen these pieces bent or otherwise damaged.

When everything is disassembled, clean it as well as you possibly can, then, clean it a second time. Inspect, replace what needs to be replaced, paint what may be reused, be very careful when removing and installing the coil springs. A lot of stored energy in the coil springs, just looking for somewhere to go.

The last time I did this job, I started one weekend and had the job completed the following weekend. All of the parts I knew would be needed were on hand and parts identified as being needed were ordered from Moss on Monday, arrived during the week and the system was reinstalled the following weekend.

If you have never done this job before, make a copy of the applicable section of the factory workshop manual and check the steps off as you do them. Then, you do not miss anything which might be important and you always know exactly where you are on the task should you have to leave it and come back to it.

Les
Les Bengtson

Darian,

have you changed the brake hoses and caliper seals? If not, they are long overdue and it would be a good idea to do that while you have the front suspension in bits. Also, don't forget to fill the front shock absorbers and check your anti-roll bar bushes.

I did the same front end rebuild including front and rear brakes and clutch (hoses, slave seals) and m/cylinder seals comfortably over two days.

I used the MGBV8 bushes because I had them in stock, the original type can wear out very quickly with some of the rubber being sold today. If you want the best go for the poly bushes. I also had a Moss front suspension rebuild kit (I bought about 14 years ago) that I would recommend.

One thing to watch out for is that the bushes are central and not under strain when the weight is back on the suspension (and remember not to tighten the nuts until then!) I had some problems with that at first, then used silicon brake fluid as a lubricant and that did the trick.

Follow Barneys advice if you have any worn trunnion bushes (the bronze bush around the metal sleeve). These come in the rebuild kit and are easier to fit than you might think!

Have fun, Neil
Neil McGurk

Darian,

Some pictures of the same job on my TD... Different, but not much. (and I second the comment on Barney's site, it is of use to every British car owner, especialy MGs. I refer to it often for my TD.)

http://www.braunprinting.com/mgtd15470/album/Suspension/Front%20Suspension/MG%20TD%2015470%20Restoration.html

warm regards,
dave
Dave Braun

Oops, you better copy and paste the URL... I don't have an 'index' file in every index of the site, so it doesn't always click over.

sorry,
dave
Dave Braun

I am currently going through this process with my 1600. My front bushings looked similar to yours. That being the case, you might as well check the bushings and shackles associated with the rear springs. While you are there, check the rear dampers, rebound straps, and shock connecting links.

I plan on replacing all the bushings (front and rear suspension), both connecting links, rear spring rubber pads, and the lower rear spring brackets.

Good luck.

Don
Don Carlberg

Hi Darian,
I did both sides over a couple of weekends last year - if I can do it anyone can!

A tip if you are replacing your brake hoses.

Saw the end off the old hose that leads back to the master cylinder; weld up the hole on the non tapered end the you now have a proper plug to seal of the brake lines whenever you need to disconnect them in the future, saves trying to jam something in the end to stop all the fluid leaking out.
Regards
Mike


Mike Ellsmore

Thanks, it's good to know that it's relatively easy. Replacing the rubber brake lines was the very first thing to the car. The idea of suddenly not having brakes was a little too scary...

I already have a set of V8 bushings I ordered from Moss.

By the way, does anyone know what size bolt the brake lines screw onto? That would be one way to stop the leaking brake fluid.

Thanks again,

Darian
Darian Henderson

Darian,
just put a piece of plastic bag under the cap on the master cylinder to make an airtight seal and the brake fluid will not leak out when you disconnect the hose.
Neil
Neil McGurk

I have Polyurathane bushes, with sleeves. Darian has driven my car so he knows how taught the whole front end is, and what a difference this amkes to the handling. I can do a complete suspension tear down and rebuild in about two hours per side, replacing all the rubber parts (without painting). The trick is to use a pair of trolley jacks, one to take the weight of the car, the other just under the lower trunnion, then you can be very precise with releasing tension on the spring and lining everything back up during reassembly.

Have all new bolts and seals, supports and spacers, plus the kingpin seals, and I would suggest going for the Polyurathane seals too given that you hvae a performance powertrain.
dominic clancy

Guys, be sure to check your rear suspension leading bushes for fit (the ones at the leading edge of the rear springs with the steel sleeve). I understand the current bushes available worldwide are undersized and if like my set then you will need to use a steel washer in order to correctly fit them
regards
mark
Mark Mathiesen

Dominic is right, his car drives like it's new. A very solid restoration.

Darian Henderson

This thread was discussed between 22/12/2007 and 28/12/2007

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