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MG MGA - Replacing sump gasket

I have taken off the sump, which despite many difficulties mentioned in past threads with the front 3 bolts, this wasn't much of a problem. Now to replace the faulty gasket, is there any tips as to what to coat the gasket with, both sides, etc.etc. The gasket is the normal paper type. I will also be replacing the main bearing cork seals at the same time. I have also cut notches in 3 bolts (for the front), as I will then be able to use a stepped screwdriver to tighten.
Any tips please.
Gary Lock

Gary, I replaced the sump gasket about 3 years ago and used Loctite Blue Maxx Silicone, purchased at Super-Cheap, has worked fine for me - more importantly no leaks.

Russell
Russell Goebel

Don't like silicone gasket and would not recommend it. After that pretty much use what you like. I use blue Hylomar both sides, Wellseal would be just as good. If the truth be known and if the sump face is undamaged you don't need any sealer other than just a smear or grease to hold it in place. If the sump face is distorted no amount of sealer will prevent leaks. The only area of concern may be the joint between the bearing corks and the pan gasket. Put a bead of Bostik 771 at these points to be sure if you wish.
Iain MacKintosh

Iain

When I did my engine rebuild 5 years ago I was recommended to KMC Wellseal by my local car parts shop (since closed). I have found this particular jointing compound absolutely first class. However, I have not seen it in other shops in my area. Is it readily avilable? I was told it is what professional engine rebuilders commonly use.

Steve
Steve Gyles

My favorite sealant is the product that Toyota sells to replace a pan gasket altogether. It is commonly called Black FIPG. I have never seen a pan sealed with it leak from the factory. Using a coat on both sides to seal the gasket works well. By itself it works better than any paper or cork gasket.
R J Brown

I am with Ian regarding silicone (RTV) sealant. A bit too much of it and it will ooze out of the joint and can wing up in the oil galleries and cause problems. Dave
David DuBois

Steve, you should be able to get it at any good engine shop but really I wouldnt fuss too much about it as Blue Hylomar is just as good. As I said if the faces are clean and flat you really don't need anything. A smear of Hylomar will just hold the gasket in place and you will just see it when you tighten up the joint. It's fine.
Iain MacKintosh

The best sealant I've found is made by Yamaha. There are a few different flavors and the best I've found of the bunch is Yamabond4. It is designed to stay somewhat plyable without hardening into a "superball" like RTV's do. To be honest, I've rarely had success with RTV's even on simple items like valve covers.

Pick some up @ your local Yamaha dealer.

j
JBries

I agree with you Ian I have always used Hylomar and found if both the surfaces are in good condition and cleaned you get a near perfect seal
shane

While I am not a large fan of Silicone it does have some advantages if the gasket surface is not quite flat. If you decide to use it just snug up the pan lightly, than let it cure for 24 hours and retighten to normal torque. By doing this you actually compress the silicone after it has cured and are not relying on just the adhesive properties which are not the best.
John H

Yuk, sorry to disagree John but I just don't like the stuff. As you say it doesn't stick well neither does it seep into gasket materials and for this very reason bits of it can find their way into other areas. For me, if a sump pan or other cover is not correct then dress out any deformation before making the joint.
Iain MacKintosh

The Toyota part # for FIPG is 00295-00103. My mechanics won't use any thing else, they don't like comebacks. John H method of torquing after cured is the best. Silicon is a poor sealant. A 3 oz. tube retails for $12.78. Any one that ever tried this stuff won't use any thing else. Around here we say just FIP it and forget it.
R J Brown

Iain, I don't disagree that it's not the best. But the above method of installation does help if you have to use it. I ran five years on an oil pan with no gasket just silicone without a leak. Now that the engine is out it got a proper job done. The US automakers use this stuff big time and I hate to say it but I have over 100k on my daily car and the engine is dry as a bone. I usually use Gaskasinch which is almost like contact cement and works very well. You let it dry and than you can stick the gasket in place, makes alignment quite easy.
John H

This thread was discussed between 19/02/2006 and 20/02/2006

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