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MG MGA - Restoration Issuea: bonnet installation & eletrica

My restoration is progressing better than I expected but I still manage to encounter some confusing issues.

1. I can't seem to attach the hood to the henges properly. Also, it appears that henges for the bonnet/hood are different sizes than the henges for the boot lid/trunk. Please share any helpful hints.

2. I'm also trying to test my electrical system. a) headlights work as well as the dimmer switch. b) gas pump works when the ignition is on. I would definitely benefit from a step by step testing procedure.
gerard hutchinson

Gerard,

Not sure I can help with the hinge issue as mine have never been removed. Are you having difficulty with the bonnet fitting? What you need to do is fit all the screws (six?) to the bonnet and hinge finger tight. then you can adjust the bonnet by lower it to al almost closed position and check the clearances. Once you get it where you want it tighten the screws a little more and check again. Don't tighten all the way until you are happy with the position.

Mark
M Gannon

The hinges are "handed" have you got them on the right sides?
Bob (robert) Midget Turbo

M Gannon - I thought I did that but I will try it again.

Bob - I'm not sure what "handed" means but I have the "longer/larger" set of hinges on the bonnet/hood.
gerard hutchinson

Sorry gerard it means they only fit one side.
i.e. the right hand one will not work on the left side and the left will not work on the right
Bob (robert) Midget Turbo

The hinges are left and right. They originally were the same part #'s hood or trunk. They are rather flimsy and can be bent around to make all the gaps fit properly. Once "fit" they are individual to their position. You should fit the hinges prior to paint. Then mark as neccesary for re assembly. The longer/larger is the bending done to make them fit.
Infact all the gaps should be fit prior to paint. The chances of chipping or cracking the paint are minimized if they are pre fit every where.
Study the work on this website. http://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/
R J Brown

Bob and RJ thanks.
I did not realize the hinges were left and right. How would I distinguish the left from the right? I spent 4 hours Saturday and made no progress. My sense is that fitting the hood is not that difficult. Am I wrong?

Of course the hood is painted so touch-up was always in my plan.
gerard hutchinson

Gerard, Try putting masking tape around the edge of the bonnet and boot lids. It will give some protection from chipping.
Ed Bell

Thanks Ed but its too late for that. I suppose I could uswe tape to prevent further chipping.
gerard hutchinson

When fitting a bonnet, two pairs of hands are useful.

Do it without the grille in place.

I also use a blanket or towel at the back by the hinges to protect the paint both sides.

Fit the hinges to the car, and tighten up.
Then make sure all the holes and captive nuts on the bonnet are clean and that the screws can go in easily
Then position the bonnet on the car with the front held up by the stay. Have second pair of hands steady things from the front.
Then fit the screws from hinge to bonnet, and lighlty tighten to be a moderate interference fit.
Close the bonnet with towel in place (it's a good way of getting the gap right!). You can push things around a bit as the bolts are not tight. You don't need to latch completely at first.
Then when the position is almost right, open up, and tighten the screws completely. If things move too much on opening, tighten the screws a little, and try again.
When happy, remove the towel and check again. It should be posible to close and open without the rear edge catching and damaging paint.
Now try closing and latching the bonnet (this is where "no grille" is important!)
You may have to heave and shove a bit (this is where you are bending hinges) to get it right and all lined up at the end. The hard part is getting things in place to get to this point.

Using this technique, I can have everything back in place and lined up in 15 minutes or less. It takes about another 10 minutes to remove the grille (which has to be done to take the engine out with my crane anyway) and about 15 minutes to replace the grille. DON'T do it with the grille in place as otherwise a stuck bonnet catch becomes a royal PITA.

In my case, I also have a set of aluminum shms (about 3mm thick, and shaped to match the hinge mounting plate) to adjust the shut at the back. Without them I cold not get the adjustment right to avoid the rear of the bonnet catching the back lip of the opening.



dominic clancy

This thread was discussed between 04/02/2008 and 06/02/2008

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This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGA BBS is active now.