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MG MGA - Rookie Mistake: Clutch Install
Almost a year ago I completed a successful rebuild of my gearbox, connected the gearbox to the engine, and installed them both in the car. Over the past year I have progressed to the point of bleeding brakes, cranking the motor, etc. I discovered yesterday that I am unable to disengage the clutch with neither the pedal nor manually. As I recall torquing down on the clutch to the flywheel I made no attempt to check the operation of the clutch -- the rookie mistake. So... After pulling the engine and gearbox (which I feel more comforatble doing than just pulling the engine), how do I adjust the pressure plate so the clutch works properly? Is there a step by step process somewhere online I can read? |
gerard hutchinson |
Gerald. There is no adjustment required. The pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel with the clutch plate (driven plate) between the two. The only things you need to make sure of are the orientation of the clutch plate--it should be marked as to the flywheel side, and that the clutch plate is aligned properly with the crankshaft to allow the first motion shaft to be inserted and the transmission bolted to the engine. Excessive wear on the clutch form arms (where they hold the carbon throw out bearing), excessive wear on the pivot mechanism, or a hydraulic problem are the common problems associated with a non-functional clutch which has been properly installed. Check out the clutch fork and pivot bolt while you have the tranny apart. Check out the hydraulics after the engine and tranny are installed in the vehicle. Les |
Les Bengtson |
If the clutch has never been operated, it is likely that the friction plate is stuck to the flywheel, Check Barney and the archive on ways to free it before pulling the engine, |
dominic clancy |
Holy crap! It never occurred to me the mechanism could become stuck. My car is not running so I can only do "Plan A" and try to start the car while in 4th gear. What should I do if plan a doesn't work? Once I get the clutch unstuck what should I do to keep it unstuck? |
gerard hutchinson |
If plan A doesn't work, you have to pull the motor. Is this a rebuilt engine? Just asking because if it is you'll want to break in the cam and lifters, and that would rule out starting the car in gear. I'm not sure how to prevent the clutch from sticking one you've freed it. Best to drive it as soon as possible, I would guess. Mark |
Mark J Michalak |
Use it. Rust forms when not used. Just like brake rotors. Worse in a humid climate like yours. The only thing you could have done wrong was put the disc in upside down. |
R J Brown |
Although 'flywheel side' is stamped on the clutch friction plate, I can never see much difference between the two sides. |
J Bray |
With almost all clutch plates the side of the plate that the anti shudder springs (the small coil springs in a circle) protrude the most, goes to the pressure plate. If the plate is put in the incorrect way they contact the flywheel bolts. |
DENIS4 |
As stated, almost all clutch plates have the hub offset from the friction surface. This is on MG's and other cars having a Borg & Beck clutch. The plate must be inserted facing the correct way. The attached image shows the offset. This is a mga twin cam clutch, but they are all the same. Mick |
Mick Anderson |
Gerard, Have you verified that the slave cylinder is operating when the clutch pedal is depressed? You indicated that you were unable to "manually" disengage the clutch. How did you attempt to do this? I've not had an MG clutch stick, but if it is a stuck clutch, I have freed a stuck clutch by holding the clutch pedal down and having helpers "bump" the car. You could also pull on the handbrake and put a BF breaker bar on the crank nut with clutch depressed. Cheers, Gerry |
G T Foster |
This thread was discussed between 13/04/2008 and 14/04/2008
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