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MG MGA - running hot
My 1960, 1600 ran fine until I changed the radiator fluid. I ran water through ii, drained and refilled with water 5 or 6 times before putting in anti-freeze and distilled water. Now it runs hot, usually just over the 212F mark, sometimes to the maximun temperature. I changed teh thermostat and it still runs about 212F. One note: I did push the stopcock on teh right side of the engine block straight up and I am not able to push it back down. It hasn't been moved for at least 5 year, if not longer. Any ideas on why its running hot AFTER changing the fluid? Thanks, Jack |
J Weiss |
Doesn't seem to make much sense Jack! Is your cooling system full with no air locks, if your new thermostat hasn't got the little poppet valve on its flange it can be awfully difficult to fill the system properly. Your block tap doesnt work because that part of the block is full of crud, see Barney's web site here http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_201.htm in fact the most likely cause of overheating is crud in the block but that doesn't explain why it ran fine before unless you have dislodged a great big chunk and it's blocking a vital waterway. Did you remove the radiator and give it a good flush and shake. It's the only way to get all the muck out of the bottom and removing the rad is so easy. Best I can do, Lindsay. |
Lindsay Sampford |
If all else fails try attaching a hose to the block drain cock with the radiator drain and cap open. This pressure injects water in the opposite direction through the engine and radiator. You should see brown water draining out at least initially. Run for 10 mins or so. |
J H Cole |
The way I clean out the crud in the rear block drain is as follows, remove the starter and distributor. Take the drain tap out. First clean out the crud in the block hole with a piece of solid wire. I also blasted it with brake or carb cleaner to wash the loose crud out. Now get a piece of 1/8"dia. x 5-6" long braided cable. Use a cold chisel to cut it so it doesn't come unbraided. Chuck it in your drill, then stick it in the hole you as far as you can. Bending it slightly upward while using a slow to medium rpm (it does take a little force to get it around the corner). It works like a roto rotor. Once you get it around the upward corner don't pull it back past the corner, but carefully pull it back and forth and also reversing drill direction till it feels clean. As it spins it does unbraide and cleans it out perfectly. When done flush the system with the tap out then reinstall. One a year open the drain, to keep the crud from building up. Chris |
CM Harter |
Loose fan belt maybe? |
Barney Gaylord |
This thread was discussed between 05/08/2009 and 06/08/2009
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