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MG MGA - Sebring Valance attachment

Coyln, have you got any pictures of how you attached your valance to the body? If so, can you email them to me please?
Gary Lock

Hi Gary
I'm away from from my car until later today, (they have dragged me screaming into work) but I will be able to take some pictures for you when I get home.

Fortunately, the car is up on axle stands just now and so it will only take a few minutes to get them for you.

IIRC, the valance is usually attached by about 14-15 setscrews that go up through flange on the valance into captive nuts in the flange on the body.

My car doesn't have these and so the setscrews went into nyloc nuts behind the upper flange.

They were a nightmare to fit because there is so little space that you can't even fit a ring spanner over the nylocs to hold them in position.

It used to take me about 20 minutes of struggling to get each setscrew into place and with 14 or 15 setscrews that is a long time.

Fortunately, James Horner took pity on me the last time he re-painted the valance for me and he installed some blind-rivet style captive nuts into the flange on the body and now it takes me less than 20 minutes to fit the entire valance. There are now fewer setscrews than were originally fitted but they fix the valance very securely.

This is just as well because I have had to have the valance resprayed three times over the last three years! This is because on each of our last three European tours some kindly (and usually anonymous) driver has run into my car and damaged the valance in a public car park.

James is so used to re-painting that he looks at my valance as being regular income for him and he even knows by heart the paint code for the car.

This is a link to similar sort of blind- rivet captive screw that James installed.

http://www.masterfix.com/en/products/blind-rivet-nuts-bolts

I will send you some pictures tonight.

Cheers
Colyn
Colyn Firth

known as nutserts here
William Revit

Hi Gary
I have just got in from crawling under the MGA and trying to take aome pictures of the valance from under the radiator duct panel.

The problem is that you can't actually see the phones screen when you are lying on your back. So this one picture is the only one that turned out clear enough to share with you.

It shows the captive "nutsert" (thanks Willy)
fixed to the upper edge of the flange on the radiator duct panel. You can see the setscrew inserted from underneath and the wing piping I fitted between the flange on the valance and the flange on the bodywork.

(The picture has also shows me that I need to treat the rust that seems to have appeared in that area, so thanks Gary, It you hadn't asked me about this, I wouldn't have realised that the steel needed repainting just there, so thanks Gary.



Colyn Firth

This is a picture of the type of the type of "nutsert" I actually used for the valance although there are a little bit larger than the one I actually used.

Hope that helps Gary.
Cheers
Colyn



Colyn Firth

Thanks Colyn...will take photo when mine is done. Car not even painted yet, but I need to do the re-shaping etc. of the valance before it is done.
Gary Lock

Hi. I used the same system two weeks ago. However, I have not cut the binding edge of the original front valance, so I have helped myself with threaded rod and elongated nuts.
Gabriel Martínez

Gabriel
Hows that engine of yours going----still ok-?
I was thinking the other day, how it was going now
willy
William Revit

Thanks for your concern William. The engine is still good. I have new videos on YouTube, see "classicdriver MG TD, MGA, XJS"
Gabriel Martínez

This thread was discussed between 06/12/2018 and 22/12/2018

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