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MG MGA - Spin on Adapter and Oil Filter
|Remmeber a thread about the nut of the Moss adapter clashing with top of filter and preventing seal. I live in Oz and also remember someone recommending Ryco filters as they overcame problem. Went to my local auto shop and they keep their filters behind the counter like jewelry and assistant ran out of patience after 2 tries ( never to see my face across his doorstep again! )...I am after a short body filter ...can any kind soul advise me of the particular Ryco filter that fits..|
|I can and close the loop shut this thread down myself...went back in BBS archives and found a thread of 2 yrs ago on the subject and the right filter is a Ryco Z418. |
Ryco Z418 is the number I have in respect of the same Moss spin-on adaptor, in my case for a 69 MGB. I have one of these sitting on my work bench at the moment.
I have test fitted the adaptor and the 418 to a spare engine block I have and it seems that the filter seal closes well enough against the adaptor seal surface to secure a closed oil flow system. That is by turning the filter by hand and to about a 1/3 turn after I assessed the seal surface had closed against the adaptor seal surface.
I have yet to mount the Moss adaptor to my car and am wondering, can you help me with one issue?
Can you tell me, what torque/technique did you employ to mount the moss adaptor to the block - given the particular machine design of the mounting bolt? I have been advised on this BBS that the Moss recommended torque is 12foot/pounds. Did you use this or did you use a sense of 'feel' in turning the mounting bolt against the seal ring?
|Roger..thanks for your advice re Filter...the instructions with the adapter also said 11 to 12 ft.lbs and I don't have a torque wrench ( and probably would not get it to fit anyway!). I will mount the unit in the next few days after buying the filter and 12ft.lbs to me is a medium push ( think of picking up a 12lb bag of your wifes shopping ) on a 12 in long spanner...then look for leaks !|
We might be about to 'share' an MG experience. Havn't decided yet whether to do one last oil/filter change on the existing set-up or to change over now. Will let you know.
Good luck with yours. I do know it is possible to securely mount these adaptors without problems - I've seen them on cars before. I suspect my approach will be like yours, spanner until (estimated) 11-12 lb or something approaching, then clamp the lock washer.
The thing only has to secure against the rubber gasket ring when all is said and done.
|Roger....have started the work , drained oil and released the old filter. 1st mistake...release the external oil connection first before taking the filter off ..reason..some brute had tightened the connection ( using a 2 ft tommy bar I think ) and once you have taken the filter housing off the top assembley is loose and you have to re-install the centre bolt etc to ensure you do not lever against the piping...|
I am into a few items of work..also changing the timing cover so I can use a rubber seal( a sore knuckle job from the look of it ).
|Roger..finished all jobs I needed to do on engine and cooling system and took it for a warm up...and pleased to say no leaks whatsoever from the spin on adapter or filter seal ( or from the new timing cover seal ).|
Some comments on getting the old housing off and replacing..
...release the external oil connection before taking off old housing.
...I took the wheel off for much better access from underneath ( car was jacked up and on front stands for other work ).
... Old rubber housing to engine block seal came out easily.
.... the old centre bolt holding the housing etc to the block had a lead in taper to help guidance in to the recessed block thread ( has to be done by feel from above ).The spin-on adapter bolt does not have such a taper and it is very difficult to thread into block. I filed a reasable lead in on new bolt to assist after some frustrating wasted time.
.....I fitted the top threaded bolt loosely into block before the rest of new assembley ( from top by feel )
... then put housing and rest of threaded assembly ( plus washer on from above.
...next went underneath and used a long adjustable on the hex head to bring the lever point down below engine and fitted a bar through hole in adjustable to turn.
....after threads fully taken up and ensuring the washer correctly oriented from below I went up top,rotated the unit and reconnected the top external oil connection to keep unit from rotating.
...Finally went down below again used a one foot tommy bar through the adjustable and my calibrated 12 lb arm push to get the torque exactly right .
The short Ryco filter was a delight to install ..easy access from above . All in all a good buy and a great improvement.
My experience was that even those filters that "fit" will sometimes bind.
I ended up taking a file to the face of the nut that causes the problem and shaving a 1/4 of its thickeness off.
No problems since.
Congratulations on a successful job and in particular on that 'educated' arm of yours. Your description pretty well matches my past experience EXCEPT that I (worried about the bolt moving - and not twigging that it is a lock washer) put a star washer against the housing, under the 'flat' washer. I know you will appreciate the effect of that on protrusion of the hex bolt into the filter recess.
Only a couple of litres of oil on the garage floor!!!
I have gone with the inverted spin on oil filter (Ryco Z23) once again with this oil change. The reason is a change of oil from Shell Helix (red pack) for older cars to Valvoline XLD Premium Classic - both 20W-50 but the latter still API SG - which Shell had been till recently with a shift to API SJ. I didn't want to change additional parameters to confuse a direct comparison of the two oils.
I'll probably do the conversion to the Moss adaptor at the next change - I have the Z418 in the garage waiting.
So far I'm really impressed with the Valvoline. Start-up is much quicker, oil pressure needle well and truly rising prior to detonation, excellent pressure - 60-62 running, 40-55 variable on hot idle at stops. No noticeable leaking (a particular concern as the Shell oil was a little more treacle-like than the other 20W-50s) AND a really noticeable freeing-up of engines willingness to rev freely. Feels like an additional 5bhp is on tap!
I'm saving this thread as a reminder for my next installation attempt. Again well done and happy driving.
I happen to agree with what T McCarthy, Michigan, USA said. My similar solution to this problem was to grind down the nut about 1/4" and thereafter any spin on filter works just fine.
This thread was discussed between 30/04/2009 and 15/05/2009
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