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MG MGA - Standard Headlight Bulbs

Can anyone recommend a good, strong "standard" headlight bulb for an MGA? Brand and model number would be most appreciated. I am not going halogen at this time. Thanks!

Regards,
M.D.
'57 Coupe
M. D.

Choosing a brand, such as Sylvania or GE--or any other major manufacturer, will give about equal results. I chose to go the halogen route, and bought some from the LBCCO that had an additional bulb for a running light. Very satisfied.
R. L Carleen

What do you mean by "halogen"? This does not mean separate replaceable bulbs as people seem to think. "Sealed beam" lights come in halogen or not, as do the replaceable bulbs in separate bulb lamps. A US standard sealed beam puts out less light than the same sealed beam with a halogen light source, for the same wattage - nowdays commonly 60W on high, and 55 on low. Both have crummy light patterns, but halogen is better, for little more $$. They are marked halogen on the lens. The "Standard" H4 halogen bulb used in 7" round replaceable bulb lamps is also 60/55W, and the light distribution is better (than the US sealed beam)on good quality lamps, but could be worse (seems impossible!) on el-cheapos. Where the idea that "halogen" lights use more power comes from is utterly beyond me, the wattage is stamped on the bulbs. There are more powerful bulbs available, but not needed if you have a good lamp and most importantly, a good electrical system delivering correct voltage. Non -halogen replaceable bulbs exist, but are obsolete and you aren't likely to come across any, except in original and some repro special lamps, like Lucas PL or motorcycle lights.
There is another possibility, the new Sylvania lights. I haven't seen these, but they are reputed to be quite good, midway in cost between "standard" sealed beams and good H4 bulb types. I believe these are sealed beam built with some modern technology. Look in the archives, something like "Bright Star" or "Silver Star"
FRM
FR Millmore

RL and FR: Thanks. I was under the (mistaken?) impression from old posts that halogen bulb lamps drew more power and required relays/new wiring to support them in an MGA. Do you both run halogens with standard MGA wiring configuration?

Regards,
M.D.
'57 Coupe
M. D.

Standard wiring is fine if good. NO lights work right if the wiring is not up to snuff. But, as stated, standard H4 60/55 draw exactly the same power as do any sealed beams made in the last 20 or so years. Earlier sealed beams used a bit less, like 50/45, but that difference is is not enough to cause a problem.
I am an advocate of headlamp relays; it makes it easier to get and maintain full voltage at the headlights, reduces losses and heating in wiring, lets switches last much longer. It also gives much better rear lights (need all the help they can get), due to less voltage drop through the light switch and feeds. All of this is true for any car, nothing special about MGA. On certain points the A may be better than some later cars, since some wires were reduced in size later.
Look up "getting grounded" in archives (MGB technical I think, early July). Check your voltages.
FRM
FR Millmore

A great sealed beam headlight that I can personally recommend is the Wagner BriteLite. These have a Xenon gas rather than Halogen and put out a whiter light. The fit properly and don't require the wiring upgrade requiremement of some of the other aftermarket high performance light. I got them some years back at WalMart. Not sure if they still carry them. I run them on my A with a std generator and have absolutely NO problems. The pattern they put out are great.

I hear that the Sylvania Silver Star are also good. The specs are comparable. But I have no personal experience on them.

Chuck
Chuck Schaefer

I'm running the standard Synvania sealed halogens on my A with no problems. $10 each at Pep Boys.
Steve Simmons

Also running halogen sealed beams on my 56 roadster, but on an alternator system. No problems. I just put the Sylvania Silver Star sealed beams in my son's Jeep Cherokee. They have TWO halogen filaments for each upper and lower beams. They are a marked improvement over the old (standard) sealed beams. I will say, however, that even with the lights adjusted well, at night, the on-coming traffic is annoyed by the brightness of even the low-beams. We get a lot of people flashing their brights at us, thinking we have the high-beams on. But, boy, they do light up the road ahead.

For the Sylvania web site comparison, go to:
http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/Products/ProductComparison/default.htm
Frank Nocera

As an "OLD" MG Owner-Lover-Mechanic since 1962, I can answer ONE of the questions here! In the "Bad Old Days" you had either weak, poor pattern "Sealed Beams" or good pattern, stronger light "Bulb & Separate Reflector Housing" QUARTZ IODINES (QI) from Europe. UK Lamps dipped the wrong way, unless you were stationed in Japan! The separate-bulb QI's drew quite a lot more current and put a severe strain on a 20-25 AMP Lucas Generator, forcing an EARLY SWITCH to Alternators; then normally fitted only to Taxis & Police cars. Most states outlawed the "bulb-type" because their only experience was with "A-Model Ford" lamps of the 1930s, and you couldn't adjust the light pattern with Automatic-Level Type Headlight Adjusters. Later came our NEW "U.S. Department of Transportation" (D.O.T) who outlawed the "bulb-type" in all states, and the NEW U.S. Environmental Protection Agency" (E.P.A.) who outlawed the "IODINE" in the QI lamps as a "Hazardous Substance"! U.S. companies managed to get their NEW "Sealed-Beam QUARTZ HALOGENs" (QH)legalized, but they put out only a fraction of the light of the European QI's at the time. U.S. QH Sealed Beams did have a better pattern and drew a lot less current than the older "Sealed-Beams" FOR SLIGHTLY MORE LIGHT OUTPUT!
wattswh1

This thread was discussed between 02/08/2005 and 06/08/2005

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