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MG MGA - Stiff Steering Question

I recently swapped out my "regulation" steering wheel for a nice (smaller) Moto-Lita I had left over from my last B...I had noticed the steering was stiff before, but now with the smaller steering wheel, its almost impossible. I plan to flush out the grease I suspect is in the rack, but I am waiting for new rack seals(gaiters) before starting. My experience with Bs and TDs tells me that must be the problem...however the rack sure looks different from both the B and TD...am I missing somthing here? The zerk is on top and whoever installed it faced it the wrong direction, the only way to "maybe" reach it is thru engine compartment. Okay, I know I will have to spin it around probably...or do I? Does this look right to you?
Stiff or not, the sunshine is calling me....
-Joe


Joe Walck

Is the steering stiff with no wight on the suspension? Could just be that the outer ball joints have had it.

Disconnecting them from the arms will tell you if the problem is in the rack or the king pins

dominic clancy

My motolita steering wheel makes the steering very heavy too. It is mostly fine when the car is moving but on some of the sharper bends I have to really pull at the wheel and especially so when I am parking the car.
The steering turns easily when it is jacked up off the ground and I do keep the rack topped up and the suspension is greased regularly.

I would advise you to keep the original steering wheel if you prefer lighter steering but if, like me, you prefer more space to get in and out of the car, then the Motolita does the trick but at the expense of giving you slightly better developed arm muscles!

Colyn
Colyn Firth

Yes, I did it for the room...6', 210, 38" waist...I needed the room!
Joe Walck

Heavy steering apart (I have a 13"), I drilled out the oilers (zerks?) and installed my own oiling system as per the pre-war MGs. Makes a very easy job to pour a bit of oil down the tubes.

Steve


Steve Gyles

With no weight on, the steering wheel moves easy...so does that mean the it's the rack or the ball joints?
Joe Walck

It means you have low air pressure in the tires, and you're not used to fast manual steering. Boost pressure to about 30 psi in the front tires and see how you like it.
Barney Gaylord

Steve, I really like your hose idea...or should I say my car does(explained below).
I used my "converted" Craftsman grease(now oil) pnumatic gun with oil. I attached/filled the rack from inside the engine compartment, as I had an 18" hose and it reached the zerk fitting fine. HOWEVER...now I can't break it loose from the zerk fitting, SO, it's going to stay right there forever...I capped the end that goes into the gun and zip tied it out of the way of the fan. Now when I get the new seals, I can really flush out the rack. Oh yea, my seals are cracked/torn alittle, so more "cardboard" under her to catch the "newest" leak, until I change them out.
Barney, my tires are a bit low, I'll top off tomorrow and take her for another ride and check that out...no doubt more pressure will make a difference.
Summer has finally arrived in the Pacific Northwest!!!
Joe Walck

I have a 14" Moto-Lita and 195/55/15 Dunlop Direzza tyres (26 psi) and steering is fine although I did break my little finger (required plate and a couple of screws) competing in a motorkhana last month so it is important that you grip the wheel properly when turning! The big advantage of the 14" steering wheel is that it lets me get in and out of the car more easily.
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

Joe when u get it steering right, I got a couple good hill climbs for ya.

Short one - Taggart Quarry Rd.

Longer one - Erie Mtn. Road --lotsa hard curves and switchbacks.

Both are just north of Deception Pass off Hwy 20.

Used to run em in my 74 Dodge Dart Sport when I was stationed there.
Judd Irland

Barney was right again...tire pressure had gotten down to 20 on the fronts, I upped to 30.
Also discovered my left tie-rod had 0 threads showing and the nut was loose, the other side had 5-6 threads from locknut...I made R the same and BOY what a difference!
Question:
Can I use the tool I made to align my TD wheels...a 1" PVC pipe cut about 6 inches shorter than inside wheel base, with spring loaded dowl that I would mark, when under pressure, between wheels at front(or back) and roll car until PVC is in opposite position, mark again, then adjust each tie-rod adjuster equally until it's same on mark.
BTW, after moving that R one, my 12 o'clock steering wheel is now at 2...I know I now need to take steering wheel off and reset, but I will wait until new rack seals arrive to do that. Right now I want to enjoy the "light" vice "stiff" steering on a run today.
-Joe
Joe Walck

I just had my toe-in checked and adjusted last week. I'd noticed my tyres were wearing unevenly on the front, scrubbing the inner edges. (Yeah, I know all you guys do these things yourself. I had mine done on professionally for $50). Turns out, both were "toeing out", especially on one side.
I'm absolutely amazed at the difference it's made. The steering's significantly lighter, and the car feels wonderfully "chuckable". (14'' Moto Lita wheel). Love it! Best $50 I've spent in a long time!
T Aczel

Error on my last post...it was the left side lock nut that I moved to 5 or 6 threads (working from the front it was the right, but sitting in car, it's left). My PVC/dowl/spring alignment tool was exactly right-on after the move. The steering wheel has been reset. BTW, I can almost turn the steering wheel with one finger now.
Most of the "oh by the ways" the PO told/warned me about have been easy fixes with my previous MG experience (4 Bs, 3 TDs) AND with help from you all A owners on the BBS...obviously he had no real idea how to treat(or fix)or service a fine british sports car.
Joe Walck

A previous post says that the toe in was worse on one side than on the other. This might confuse some people who regard toe in as a single measurement.
Most workshops start the measurements and adjustments by first clamping the steering wheel in the central position and then adjusting the toe in separately on each side (half the value on each side).
This is OK for modern cars that can have a more complex steering wheel fitting than the simple MGA splines and the position of the wheel also effects the correct operation of the turn signals.
Also in a previous post it is mentioned that having a different number of threads visible at the tie rods on each side can cause stiff steering.
This is because you are using rack teeth that normally have little use, instead of the central teeth that have been worn into a more free fit (even though the centre teeth have been hardened).

With the MGA you should do things in the correct sequence.
First have the tie rod threads on each side with the same number of threads visible.
Then with the wheels straight ahead set the steering wheel splines so that the wheel is centered.
Then adjust the toe in by turning the tie rods the same amount on each side.

Mick
M F Anderson

Following on from the above observations, what are current thoughts on wheel alignment?

Parallel (as per book)or slight toe in, or toe out?

JB
John Bray

Mick,
Just to add a practical point to your good post - getting the steering wheel centred exactly is hard to do in the garage/shop. I find it is best to take the car out on a straight road, and when the car is driving straight, stop and adjust the wheel on the column splines so it is correct. This only take a few seconds if the column nut has been loosened first.
John - go by the book. however, tire pressures are a personal choice. I've been running about 26 PSI front and 28 PSI rear for 30 years on my A.
Peter.
P. Tilbury

This thread was discussed between 01/05/2011 and 04/05/2011

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