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MG MGA - Stuck hub bearing

So, I bought the replica of the "Churchill tool" splined hub puller from British Tool in order to remove my hubs. As can be seen in the attached photo, I achieved surprisingly little by this... I've already malletized the end of the spindle while supporting the backing plate to try to get it freed, accompanied by copious quantities of penetrating oil. Before purchasing yet another puller that has enough reach to remove the stuck bearing, I was wondering if anybody here might have encountered this problem before, and could suggest a lower buck (or pound, I'm not particular) solution?




Del Rawlins

Del, you could try using a steering wheel puller or sililar and welding the 2 bolts that pass through the puller to the outer race of the bearing.

Andy
Andrew Preston

Grind it off with an angle grinder! But go easy on the last bit! I'm serious.
Art Pearse

Hi and happy new year
get rid of the outer race and balls. I squeeze it in a wise to brake the outer race, be careful, it explodes and can cut you, then as Art say grind it of- the heat of grinding helps to release the iner bearing race.Even if you touch the shaft with the grinder, no damage done, the new bearing will sit over it.

Martin
m zazvorka

Del, Use the "gas hacksaw"! Just heat the bearing to a dull cherry red with an oxy/acetylene torch then allow it all to cool down. Give it a crack with a hammer and it will fly off.
Keep the heat away from the axle.
Barry
Barry Gannon

Dremel it is, then. Maybe with the outer race and balls gone, the backing plate will come off, giving enough access to smack the inner race with punch and hammer from the other side. I just hate destroying parts. I've got new bearings, but the old ones appear to be better made. Thanks for the suggestions.

Del Rawlins

A Dremel or air die grinder with a reinforced cut off wheel. Cut through the outer race to remove it and the balls. Then cut the inner race until you are nearly through. It will be tough near the back plate but you should be able to get close enough for this to work. Put a cold chisel in the slot you have cut and strike it with a large hammer and the inner race will crack and can then be pulled off. We have used this method at work on different machinery and it works very well.

Good Luck

Ralph
Ralph

I had an experienced welder burn mine off, but it needs a good eye and steady hand.
J H Cole

I have never tried pinching the outer race to break it. Must take a hell of a big vice to crush a big bearing.

On many occasions I have used a small grinding burr in a hand grinder to remove the rivets from the ball retainer. Once the retainer is out, move the balls around to one side of the bearing and the outer race will drop off. (This is reverse of originally assembly). Then use a thin abrasive cut-off wheel to grind most of the way through the inner race. In most cases a nick in the shaft or shoulder does not matter, but watch out for the seal seating ring behind the inner spindle bearing. Once notched, snack it with a cold chisel and heavy hammer to break the inner race and it slides off. Done a lot this way. Bit of work, but never fails and never any damage.
Barney Gaylord

Hi Barney
Just 4" wise, not realy that big. The material is brittle, that is why you can brake it with hammer and chisel, I know you grind it first, but you have the shaft for support, nothing like it on outer race, try a small one. They do EXPLODE!!! be careful.

Martin
m zazvorka

The Dremel and chisel method worked exactly as advertised, thanks again.
Del Rawlins

This thread was discussed between 02/01/2011 and 03/01/2011

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