MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGA - T9 5 speed

I've got a '59A with a '65 B drivetrain--engine to rear end--all '65. Has anyone attempted to fit the T9 5 speed in this situation? I'm thinking that you would use the kit for the B EXCEPT you would use the A crossmember. Would this be correct?

Thanks,

--Jack
JM Morris

Jack

I see no problem. I used the MGA kit with my 5 bearing 1800 engine. All fitted ok. That said, I did mine 11 years ago and, if my memory serves me right I think I used a 1600 rear plate, reamed out to take the rear crankshaft seal. Not sure if you can use the 1800 back plate. Someone else will have to advise you.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Jack, I have a 1956 MGA with a 1966 5 bearing MGB engine, a matching MGB clutch, and a T9 gearbox. I used the MGA conversion kit, but had to change the clutch lever pivot block to one designed for the MGB clutch lever.

As an asside, my car has a low mount starter so I also had to change the rear engine plate with an apprporiate MGA plate and have it machined to accept the rtear oil seal.

If you contact Peter Gamble at Hi Gear and let him know what pieces you have, he can advise you of exactly which bits you'll need for your installation.
Andy Bounsall

Andy's advise is, "Right On." Get your kit directly from Peter Gamble and he will ship you just what you need. You will then not have to play-around with any changes to engine.
David Werblow

Jack, I just remembered that the spigot bushing adapter for an MGB engine is different from what is supplied in the "standard" MGA conversion kit.
Andy Bounsall

Andy

You are correct, my memory is coming back a bit. My invoice just says MGA conversion kit. I too fitted the MGB clutch. The kit arrived with all the correct bits. When I bought mine the housing was machined for the high starter position. I may be wrong, but a low starter housing may not have been an option then. As Jack already has the 1800 engine and gearbox he will have already done the tunnel modification to accept the high starter, so may be, just may be, he will be able to use his existing 1800 backplate. As you say, Peter Gamble will put him right.

Jack, while you are at this stage I would strongly recommend you also buy and fit a right angle speedo drive adapter to the gearbox. It gives a much smoother reading to the instrument and also saves routing the drive cable across the passenger floor pan. You will also be able to use your existing MGA cable. Otherwise Peter will supply you with a conversion cable (Ford one end, MGA the other). If you get a right angle adapter with the correct ratio you may also not need to re-calibrate the speedo. Again, Peter Gamble will advise you. You may be able to get the adapter cheaper from the makers (Speedograph) than through Peter, but if you are doing the rest of the purchase through him it's probably easier to keep it all with one supplier.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Put a t-5 in my TD last year, works quite nicely. Marvin
Marvin Stuart

Steve--I didn't have to do the tunnel modification. I used a gear reduction starter that engages the flywheel from the front rather than the back (which the stock starter does) thereby freeing up room on the backside negating the need for tunnel modification.
I have ordered the kit from Hap at Acme Speed Shop in Greenville, SC (before I knew the source was Peter Gamble). Delivery time is about 3-4 weeks.
I had a long conversation with Hap. He recently installed one in an MGB. The idea is that I will need a B kit but with an A tranny crossmember, A shifter, and maybe a different slave cylinder, although I'm currently running the A slave cylinder with the B tranny so maybe that won't be a concern.
My main concern is how the stock A tranny mount will be handled. I'd like for it to stay as it is (stock), but wonder if it will all need to be cut away for this upgrade. The B folks have an advantage. Hap says he was able to install the driveshaft while the engine/tranny was still tilted down and then simply lifted everything up to the correct position and bolted it to existing bolt holes. That won't happen with the A due to the stock tranny mount, and 4 holes will have to be drilled in the frame for the 5 speed crossmember/tranny mount. If the stock A crossmember/tranny mount does need to be cut away, it will certainly make future engine/tranny installation/removals much easier and faster, and I assume installation would be similar to Hap's description for the B.
I did also order the right angle adaptor.

Andy--re the spigot bushing: I should be OK there if I'm getting the B kit.

Thanks to all for the information. It helps remove the anxiety of uncertainty!

I'll let you know how it goes. I only get to do this on weekends and not then if it's too cold (unheated workshop).

Cheers!

--Jack

JM Morris

Jack, you should have no problem using your original MGA clutch slave. It should not be necessary to cut off the MGA gearbox mounting ears. Yes, you do have to drill 4 holes in the frame rails to mount the new rear cross member.
Andy Bounsall

This thread was discussed between 04/01/2012 and 07/01/2012

MG MGA index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGA BBS is active now.