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MG MGA - Those seized and broken screws!

Well into removing all the items and bolts prior to lifting the body and have run into a few snags ( no rust!) just stubborn fasteners.

Has anyone a fool proof method of removing those broken and seized bolts and screws? Apart from the use of the "easyout" ( which can also shear off - just making the task even harder and longer)

I've soaked them with WD40 and others and waited overnight, tried tapping them with a driver to help break the bond, used heat very judiciously, tried drilling them out-
All with varying degrees of success and a lot of failures.

I've just gone online and bought a self centering system from the states, and beefed up my ar*enal of heftier easyouts but am still struggling.
I am now left with half the hood bow-to-body holding bolts sheared away as well as several door strike screws with no heads.

Also, any hints as to HOW to hold the last body bolt- the one they have hidden right at the extreme tail- not an easy shot. It is well shielded by all sorts of cross members. I can just get my fingers to it but am stumped as to how to hold the nut
I resorted to the grinder for the second to last , but this still eludes me.
M THOMPSON

I have an oxy-acetylene torch which gets used more for freeing-up siezed bolts etc than welding. I have not found a bolt yet, no matter how rusty, that won't unscrew after being heated up red hot. If you could borrow a portable gas welding kit it might help, but if you have already sheared the heads off, it is probably too late! I think they call it "the blue wrench" in the States!
Lindsay Sampford

M,
On the bow and door screws, drill the csk heads off, release the bow and the striker plates and you should have enough 'stump' left to get some self grip wrench on at 90 degrees - you'll also be able to get right into the corrosion with the penetrant (it probably can't soak past the head to item joint and get to the real sticking point.)
On that last bolt try grinding 'end on' using a metal cutting disc.

regards
Colin
C Manley

Heat! Get a MAP gas set. Not expensive. You don't need oxy. After restoring three 1920s cars and working on the A, I am always amazed how a little heat does the trick.
Matthew
M S Randell

Its been some time since I removed any panels from an MGA but I recall using a propane gas torch to free off the bolts in the captive nuts.
I had a real problem with the wing (fender) fixing bolts which had rusted and rounded off which made the correct size 1/2 inch AF socket much too loose to work properly and just slip off.
I found that if I took a high quality 12mm metric socket to hammer on to the bolt head, I could then successfully unscrew it.
The bolts were binned after this but they were already past their sell-by.

Colyn
Colyn Firth

You can make the best penetrating oil at home.
Use 1/2 automatic trans fluid and acetone or keytone. I keep it in a small oil can with a hand trigger.
You will not find anything better in the market.
WD-40 is not a penetrant.
I had a panel spotter that was hand held. I used a heavy duty carbon arc welding stick and grounded the car body. Then placed the stick on the bolt and squeezed the trigger. The bolts heat up and are easily removed.I removed every screw and bolt on an MG YA including the boot floor without losing a screw or bolt. They all come loose with heat and homemade penetrating fluid.
Sandy
SANDY SANDERS

1. Do not use WD40. It is about as effective as water. And it leaves an oily slime that will only attact dirt. Use Justis Brothers JD-80. This stuff is incredible. Spray it on and let it soak for 5 to 10 minnutes then loosen bolt.

2. Heat, not so much as to melt the nut or bolt, but enough to get it good and hot.

3. Last resort, drill it out and then re-tap the threads. (lots of work).

4. When successful, grab a pint.
JP Jim

I've gotten to the point where sometimes I'm glad when the bolt breaks, so I can remove whatever it is I am taking off the car, and then attack the remnant of the bolt later with better access. First thing I try is usually just let it soak for a while with penetrating oil. If it doesn't have to be extracted right away, spray it down every day or two whenever it is convenient. When I get around to removing it, I'll apply heat with a torch to the part and/or fastener, then grab whatever is sticking out with a vise grip pliers, and try to work it loose. If it won't budge, I spray it with more fluid as it is cooling. This can cause fluid to be drawn into the threads, but expect it to smoke some. Repeat as necessary.


If it still won't move, then drill it out. If it is mangled, grind the top flat at the break, and accurately center punch it. I use a left handed drill bit whenever possible for drilling out bolts and screws, and often the fastener will begin to turn out on its own. If possible, drill the fastener all the way through, so if you break off a screw extractor in the hole, you may be able to punch it all the way through, or back out from the other side. That has saved me a lot of trouble before. It's important to drill the fastener out straight to avoid harming the female threads, but if you have to install a helicoil to repair the threads after you get it out, that isn't the end of the world either.
Del Rawlins

Kroil or PB Blaster are good penetrants in the States.

On my "A" the floorboard bolts were the ones that were impossible to get out. Even with heat, some snapped off.

Grinding flush, center punch and drill with slightly smaller drill bit - then retap. The drill bit size is usually written on the tap, or the box the tap came in if it's a small tap.

One other trick I've heard of but not tried is to use your MIG or stick welder to weld a piece of metal to the stripped or rounded off bolt and then use that to grab with vice grips or a pliers.

A MIG welder could also be used just to heat up the part by welding a dot on the head of the bolt.

Barney has good info on general fastener removal, etc. on his site.

JIM in NH
AJ Mail

Rusted bolts. Sometimes it goes well and others times not so well. Use whatever works - PB Blaster, Hack Saw, Cold Chisel, Drill,Heat, Weld to broken part.
Bill Haglan

This is from the GrassRoots Motorsports board - interesting test.

Rusty bolts? Make your own super rust penetrant!
Suggested by John Brown

So you deal with a lot of rusty nuts? Go down to the hardware store and buy some acetone, a quart of Dexron Mercon and a refillable spray bottle. In the spray bottle mix the ATF and acetone in a 1:1 mixture.

Spray away and get your nuts loose!

Independent testing of penetrating oils using a single steel bar with 1/2”x20 nuts torqued to 50 ft/lbs and treated with a 10% salt water solution that was allowed to rust. Listed are the chemicals and required removal torque.

-None ………………… 516 pounds

-WD-40 ……………… 238 pounds

-PB Blaster …………. 214 pounds

-Liquid Wrench ….. 127 pounds

-Kano Kroil ………… 106 pounds

-ATF-Acetone mix….53 pounds
AJ Mail

In another life I used the only easy out tool that ever worked, a Snap-on set. It is a hardened spline like set. Drill out the broken bolt and tap in the tool to screw the bolt out. It does not spread the bolt as the easy outs do. Heat with the oxy, especially on exhaust clamp bolts is a sure fire method, also cuting nut and bolts items with an air chisel. Workshop equippment, yes, but time is money. Sean
S Sherry

This thread was discussed between 06/07/2010 and 09/07/2010

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