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MG MGA - Timing light setup

I've been setting point gap and static timing all these years, and haven't used a timing light with my Mk II. A recent Judson installation has prompted me to purchase a timing light and dwell meter.

I have a Lucas distributor with points/condenser, and a stock coil.

I've found a number of references on Barney's site and in the archives that refer to the use of these tools, but I'm missing the basics. Where can I look to learn the basics, and then find appropriate procedures and settings ?

Thanks,
Chuck Mosher
Chuck Mosher

Chuck

What type of timing light? Are you able to dial a preset advance into it?

Steve
Steve Gyles

Equus from JC Whitney, has preset advance feature.

-Chuck
Chuck Mosher

Chuck. I have a basic article on my website which may help. Go to www.custompistols.com/ and then the MG and articles section. There is one on ignition timing. If, after reading the article, you have other questions, you can contact me through the website.

Les
Les Bengtson

Les,

Nice site ! Thanks for the info.
Anyone know where would I look to find out dynamic timing stats (including mechanical/vacuum advance) for MGAs ?

Thanks again,
Chuck Mosher
Chuck Mosher

Chuck, take the vaccum line off the dist, hook up the timing light. start the car, and rev it to 3000rpm. (have someone else push on the gas)Then set your timing to 28-30 degrees. This will set your timing to the max advance as to prevent damage. Your timing will not go over 28 degrees. It will not matter what it is at idle. I have a Judson and it runs great. Sometimes a little rough at idle but no problem at speed.
JEFF BECKER

I'm a little confused as I do not own a timing light that I can adjust the preset advance. Can I mark my pully using a protractor, then follow Jeff's instructions?Thanks Gary
gary starr

Gary,
That is exactly what I did and it works great. Measure the distance of 10 degrees with a dividing compass and then mark the edge of the crank pully with white paint each 10 degrees. Be sure and mark the pully in the correct rotation!

John
John Progess

? Why the need for a protractor

There are markings on the bottom of the timing chain cover that indicate the advance - these are the teeth that are often bent up out of sight when reinstalling an engine.

Static timing is the way I do it quickly, then once running, I just set the timing using the timing marks and the strobe light.
dominic clancy

To get the timming set at 28 degrees while running at 3000 rpm you need either an adjustable timming light or to mark the front crank pulley at 30 as John describes.
R J Brown

Sorry, I missed the 3000rpm bit - the timing marks do not go as high as 30 degrees, but you could use them as an indicator for the arc that you need for 15 degrees, then double it. If you put the paint marks on the pulley in a position where they can be seen from above the engine, it will be a much easier job - the standard position is a really stupid piece of design that means lots of getting up and down of the floor to set the timing.
dominic clancy

Chuck. Simply set the notch in pulley at the first pointer you come to when rotating (the engine rotates clockwise when viewed from the front). Then, use a dab of paint to make a small mark on the pulley in line with the top dead center pointer. That mark will be 20 degrees advanced from the notch in the pulley. Align the new mark at 10 deg BTDC and you actual timing will be 30 deg BTDC.

However, it would also be wise to check the timing advance at idle, 1,500 rpm, 2,000 rpm and 2,500 rpm to see what you get. The ideal figure of a total of 32 degrees of mechanical advance at between 3,000 and 3,200 rpm for a high compression engine using premium gasoline may work well when you have premium gasoline (rather than a lower grade "blended fuel") and a distributor which is performing as new. Different fuels and a worn, or malfunctioning, distributor, may change things. Thus, a good idea to plot the advance curve, then take the car out for a road test before making final decisions.

Les
Les Bengtson

Dominic

I spotted your comment about getting up and down off the floor to set the timing. I got round this one by swapping my timing chain cover for the 1800 version. This repositions the timing teeth to the top of the cover. You can then do all your timing from the top side. The teeth can be a little obscured by the fan belt from some angles so it takes a few moments to get the timing light pointing correctly, but it is certainly less demanding on the knees and you can reach the distributer with your spare hand.

Steve
Steve Gyles

This thread was discussed between 20/11/2005 and 26/11/2005

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