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MG MGA - Timing & Tuning MGA 1600
I am a couple of weeks away from having the various bits of my engine back together, carbs, dizzy, etc and I am going to need to time and tune the engine. Are there any recommendations for somebody that does house calls in the Berkshire, UK area? Or alternatively suggestions of how to get it back to running so I can get it to somewhere like aireytuning.com bearing in mind that I dont necessarily have any gear at home to help me with this. Thanks Rob |
R Rundle |
Rob To get it running acceptably on the road so you can at least drive to 'an expert' I would set the static ignition to 8 degree BTDC, this only needs a bulb and a bit of wire, and set the carbs a couple of flats down. It should run fine on this if everything is working correctly but clearly it can be improved. Paul |
Paul Dean |
Rob Where in Berks are you? Steve |
Steve Gyles |
Hi Rob My advice for what its worth is not to call in a professional company - you will be missing out on part of the fun! Even a numskull like me has learnt how to do the basic tuning, timing, etc. I would suggest investing in some basic tools which will soon pay for themselves:- a carb balancer (say £20?) and a timing light (say £25?-although if you want to spend a bit more, buy one with an advance). I also have a colourtune, but have never got on with it. Paul has already explained how to start the job and there are many other very helpful people on this forum that can help you out. And plenty of help on the web for example John Twist shows how to set timing with a bulb https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpp67aqwM2Y Good luck, Graham |
Graham V |
Graham, Paul - Thanks for the info, sounds like its worth trying and seeing the result. I guess my reason for calling someone in, was that I am severely time limited for getting things done and thought it might be quicker, but with what you are saying worth a go. Steve - I am in Bracknell. Thanks Rob |
R Rundle |
Rob I am only 15 miles away so if you get stuck I can always come over - diary permitting. I have a dynamic timing light, vacuum balancer and the SU tuning kit. If you want to do the job yourself you are welcome to borrow the kit. Not that I am volunteering him but Colin Manley is only about 7 miles from you. Steve |
Steve Gyles |
Hi Rob In answer to your original post, I have just remembered I do know someone who does that sort of work, specialises in classic cars, and is not madly expensive. My advice is still to do it yourself as you will get to understand your car much better, and as I said, it's part of the fun. But if you do want someone else to sort it, let me know and I will put you in touch. Regards, Graham |
Graham V |
Cheers Graham, will let you know how it goes.. Thanks Steve, might very well take you up on the offer if it all goes wrong. Is the kit worth having as part of my toolbox, if so what recommendations for the various bits and where to get them from. Rob |
R Rundle |
Rob The SU Carb kit is available from a number of sources. I got mine from the MGOC. I have details and instructions on my website: http://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/su_carburettor_tool.htm It can be used to balance the carbs, although I used a flow/vacuum meter. In fact the SU instructions suggest that a flow meter should be used for precision. I use the SU rods as a periodic check that nothing has altered. The SU rods show that the carb pistons rise in unison which is what balancing is basically about. The vacuum gauges come in various guises and are available on Ebay, Moss and the like. This Ebay link shows one of them: 191659069271 I am sure the guys out there all have their preferences. I use a dynamic timing light. I set the static as Paul states above. Then, with the vacuum pipe to the distributor disconnected, I run the engine at between 3000 - 3500 rpm. With the timing light set to 33 degrees. I adjust (twist) the distributor until the engine pulley marker aligns with the TDC mark. I would add here that it is easy on my car as I have a front chain cover with the advanced markers on top rather than underneath. To be honest I have not checked if the length of wiring on my light stretches to lying under the car to observe the marks. With my chain cover it is a one person operation. I guess you would need an assistant with the standard MGA cover. I got my light from Halfords. Expect to pay around £50 for this type of light. Like all tools in the workshop, for the operation of just one car, they get used very little. However, when needed they are priceless for getting the job done quickly and with precision. Steve |
Steve Gyles |
Cheers Steve, I'll look up those items and get them on order. I think they will be useful to have in the long run as I am sure there is always tweaking each year. Unfortunately the timing mark is underneath so a two person job. But I have somebody that can help, with that bit. |
R Rundle |
Mine is a Halford Advance Timing Analyzer that I have had several years. My main point is the wires are 6ft long and this is adequate to easily use on your own with the standard timing mark on the bottom of the timing chain cover. I take the power (negative) from the starter switch and the earth (positive) from some suitable clean metal item in the same area. Personally I would be wary of going as far as 33% BTDC. I would start at 30% and go up a degree at a time but 32% is the limit I work to. My engine builder (Cameron Gilmour) thought 32% was high for a road engine and he builds very hot racing B series engines. Paul |
Paul Dean |
Last time I ran mine from a spare 12 volt battery on the floor in front of the car which meant the lead only had to reach the 1st plug. |
Graham V |
This thread was discussed between 13/08/2015 and 17/08/2015
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