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MG MGA - Tips for cylinder head R&R learnt the hard way
I needed to remove and replace the cylinder head 3 times in the last 3 months (1800 engine) and along the way picked up few tips that maybe of use to others. The reason for the cylinder head replacements is a litle complicated - initially the heater valve failed draining the coolant while I was busy admiring the scenery and chating to the navigator and not watching the temp gauge - result, cracked the head were it had been repaired some years ago. A friend lent me a spare head while I tried to find a good second hand head locally. In the end I decided to import a fully assembled aluminium head (conventional) from the US. Fitted this and found it had no compression (issue with valve seating - I am currently in negotiations with supplier so will wait for their decision before detailing issues). Anyway I have had issues fixed using a local machine shop and head is back on and all is fine. The tips, (1) After several skinned knuckles I was told how easy it is to remove and replace the carbies, heat shield and inlet manifold as an assembly. It makes the job so easy - the only special tool required is an old style 1/2" offset ring spanner. (2) If you have extractors that use half circle washers because the flange thickness is less than inlet manifold flange - tack weld the two washers together. (3) Rather than jamming two nuts for removing manifold, thermostat and rocker assy. studs invest in a good quality stud wrench - I bought an S.E.K. 5/16" unit for about $35 (4) If you have trouble opening and closing the radiator drain cock I found the ideal tool for this is a 1/4" drive extension piece - fits perfectly over the drain cock handle. Regards Mike |
Mike Ellsmore |
Mike wrote: "(3) Rather than jamming two nuts for removing manifold, thermostat and rocker assy. studs invest in a good quality stud wrench - I bought an S.E.K. 5/16" unit for about $35". I bought a set of 4 stud sockets, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, from a local cheap tool supplier at our annual swap meet for $20 net. VERY handy tools. |
Barney Gaylord |
A couple of other items that make the job easier are, (1) to use the K&N tapered filter assemblies (not cheap). Filter element is only held on with one socket headed cap screw! (2) have two 3/16" BSW open ended spanners (thin variety 5/32" thick) for the mixture and throttle cable stops and nuts. Mike |
Mike Ellsmore |
I saw the advantage of removing the carbs and intake as a unit but found it a little akward using a spanner to get at the two inner nuts. While it was off I drilled two holes the size of my smallest 1/2" socket (which was 1/4" drive) inline with the manifold studs on the head. This put the hole just below the linkage and using a 1/4" racthet and extension it take no more tha a minute to loosen or tighten the nuts. a steel knock out hole plug painted to match and you will never know. I know not original but after spending hours getting the linkage just right its nice not to mess it up. Chuck |
Charles O'Brien |
Barney, do you have a store name for the supplier of these stud socket sets? I could not see any on Harbour Freight website. A$ is quite strong now so may be worth importing a few sets. Charles, with the carbs attached to the manifold you can set up the linkages easily on the bench. The key to getting at the manifold nuts is having a good offset ring spanner but I like your idea - will need to have a look at how it all lines up. Mike |
Mike Ellsmore |
I don't think the vendor ever hung a sign with his name. The stud sockets are no-name-brand made in Taiwan, but they do work. Vendor booth photos: http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/swap2007/2133.jpg http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/swap2009/4736.jpg |
Barney Gaylord |
Looks like Barney got a good deal ! http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2222 How about this oddly worded tool: http://www.stud-remover.com/ One more: http://proformparts.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=63_65&products_id=418 The last one says it will do 5/16 and 3/8 - do we need other sizes for the MGA ? I need one for some upcoming engine work, so any advice appreciated. -Chuck |
Chuck Mosher |
Aw, you just have to look: STUD PULLER WRENCHES Slightly used? 4-pcs = $24.95 - Buy it now +$7.50- shipping = $32.45 delivered http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310232590418 But NEW is cheaper! toolprice.com Liberty Forge - Sku: 8258F - $19.95 +$10.39 shiping = $30.34 delivered http://www.toolprice.com/product/8258F Northern Tool GearWrench Stud Puller Wrenches, Mosel#63372 — 4-Pc. Set - $24.95 + $5.99 shipping = $30.94 delivered http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200381622_200381622 also available through eBay |
Barney Gaylord |
It's all very nice that some of these companies DO offer international shipping (many US companies become phobic at the mere mention of interational shipping), but at $133 for a $20 item I think they have rather lost the plot.... |
dominic clancy |
This stuff originated in Taiwan, was shipped across the ocean by slow boat, then trucked across North America to arrive at reasonable price. For the folks in Europe, take a little time to Google the local sources, so you don't have to pay for international shipment to import a single small package. |
Barney Gaylord |
Thanks, Barney ! My search on STUD EXTRACTOR was clearly inferior. Guess I could have ended up with a lot worse results ! Bought the set from Northern Tools, they have a store in my home town up in MN. Chuck |
Chuck Mosher |
This thread was discussed between 21/09/2010 and 24/09/2010
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