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MG MGA - Tips for cylinder head R&R learnt the hard way

I needed to remove and replace the cylinder head 3 times in the last 3 months (1800 engine) and along the way picked up few tips that maybe of use to others.
The reason for the cylinder head replacements is a litle complicated - initially the heater valve failed draining the coolant while I was busy admiring the scenery and chating to the navigator and not watching the temp gauge - result, cracked the head were it had been repaired some years ago. A friend lent me a spare head while I tried to find a good second hand head locally. In the end I decided to import a fully assembled aluminium head (conventional) from the US. Fitted this and found it had no compression (issue with valve seating - I am currently in negotiations with supplier so will wait for their decision before detailing issues). Anyway I have had issues fixed using a local machine shop and head is back on and all is fine.
The tips,
(1) After several skinned knuckles I was told how easy it is to remove and replace the carbies, heat shield and inlet manifold as an assembly. It makes the job so easy - the only special tool required is an old style 1/2" offset ring spanner.
(2) If you have extractors that use half circle washers because the flange thickness is less than inlet manifold flange - tack weld the two washers together.
(3) Rather than jamming two nuts for removing manifold, thermostat and rocker assy. studs invest in a good quality stud wrench - I bought an S.E.K. 5/16" unit for about $35
(4) If you have trouble opening and closing the radiator drain cock I found the ideal tool for this is a 1/4" drive extension piece - fits perfectly over the drain cock handle.
Regards
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

Mike wrote: "(3) Rather than jamming two nuts for removing manifold, thermostat and rocker assy. studs invest in a good quality stud wrench - I bought an S.E.K. 5/16" unit for about $35".

I bought a set of 4 stud sockets, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, from a local cheap tool supplier at our annual swap meet for $20 net. VERY handy tools.
Barney Gaylord

A couple of other items that make the job easier are,
(1) to use the K&N tapered filter assemblies (not cheap). Filter element is only held on with one socket headed cap screw!
(2) have two 3/16" BSW open ended spanners (thin variety 5/32" thick) for the mixture and throttle cable stops and nuts.
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

I saw the advantage of removing the carbs and intake as a unit but found it a little akward using a spanner to get at the two inner nuts. While it was off I drilled two holes the size of my smallest 1/2" socket (which was 1/4" drive) inline with the manifold studs on the head. This put the hole just below the linkage and using a 1/4" racthet and extension it take no more tha a minute to loosen or tighten the nuts. a steel knock out hole plug painted to match and you will never know. I know not original but after spending hours getting the linkage just right its nice not to mess it up. Chuck
Charles O'Brien

Barney, do you have a store name for the supplier of these stud socket sets? I could not see any on Harbour Freight website. A$ is quite strong now so may be worth importing a few sets.

Charles, with the carbs attached to the manifold you can set up the linkages easily on the bench. The key to getting at the manifold nuts is having a good offset ring spanner but I like your idea - will need to have a look at how it all lines up.
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

I don't think the vendor ever hung a sign with his name. The stud sockets are no-name-brand made in Taiwan, but they do work. Vendor booth photos:
http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/swap2007/2133.jpg
http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/swap2009/4736.jpg


Barney Gaylord

Looks like Barney got a good deal !
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2222

How about this oddly worded tool:
http://www.stud-remover.com/

One more:
http://proformparts.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=63_65&products_id=418

The last one says it will do 5/16 and 3/8 - do we need other sizes for the MGA ?

I need one for some upcoming engine work, so any advice appreciated.

-Chuck
Chuck Mosher

Aw, you just have to look:
STUD PULLER WRENCHES

Slightly used?
4-pcs = $24.95 - Buy it now +$7.50- shipping = $32.45 delivered
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310232590418

But NEW is cheaper!

toolprice.com
Liberty Forge - Sku: 8258F - $19.95 +$10.39 shiping = $30.34 delivered
http://www.toolprice.com/product/8258F

Northern Tool
GearWrench Stud Puller Wrenches, Mosel#63372 — 4-Pc. Set - $24.95 + $5.99 shipping = $30.94 delivered
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200381622_200381622
also available through eBay
Barney Gaylord

It's all very nice that some of these companies DO offer international shipping (many US companies become phobic at the mere mention of interational shipping), but at $133 for a $20 item I think they have rather lost the plot....

dominic clancy

This stuff originated in Taiwan, was shipped across the ocean by slow boat, then trucked across North America to arrive at reasonable price. For the folks in Europe, take a little time to Google the local sources, so you don't have to pay for international shipment to import a single small package.
Barney Gaylord

Thanks, Barney !

My search on STUD EXTRACTOR was clearly inferior. Guess I could have ended up with a lot worse results !

Bought the set from Northern Tools, they have a store in my home town up in MN.

Chuck
Chuck Mosher

This thread was discussed between 21/09/2010 and 24/09/2010

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