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MG MGA - Tips for removing gearbox rear seal

I am stuck trying to remove a rear seal on a flanged gearbox output flange

The seal is not a standard oil seal, but metal and felt and is worn and no longer oil tight. I have damaged it on trying to get it out. It refuses to move even a mm.

All tips gratefully received, I am hoping to avoid taking the engine out to get at the gearbox.
Dominic Clancy

Is it the metal outer cup type or the inner cup type?

If the former then a sharp chisel on the forward side and split it open along the axis of the box.

If the latter then sharp chisel to cut the steel part of the ring's flat face in a couple of places half an inch apart, lever the "tongue" so formed at 90 degrees and use a blunt flat bladed screwdriver to collapse the inner steel collar.
Chris at Octarine Services

Hi Chris

It's the inner type, very late 1622 MkII. I will try your tip tomorrow, thanks a lot for the reply

Dominic Clancy

1. First choice is a seal puller to lever it out.

2. Drill a small hole in the face of the shell near the OD. Install a sheet metal screw there, and pull it out with a slide hammer (impulse puller).

3. Position a small punch or thin blade screwdriver at the junction between seal shall and alloy housing. Drive the punch into the joint, which will move the thin metal shell inward. You may follow this with a thicker punch. When the shell is bent inward far enough the diameter of the shell will be buckled and reduce slightly, so you can pull it out freely. If this process leaves a small divot in the ID of the housing, just put a dab of sealant in the divot when installing the new seal.
Barney Gaylord

Barney, I think you missed the bit about NOT wanting to take the engine out! No chance of getting a drill in there
Dominic Clancy

Lol Dom - right angle air drills can get in anywhere!

Assuming you have or can borrow one!

Chris at Octarine Services

Dominic, I have one of these tools for removing oil seals. Dont know if it will help from underneath .

Colin Parkinson

After reading the feedback I do wonder if 3 bearing B engines are worse at getting oil into the bell housing than A engines. Its certainly true for me that B engine is worse for it than my 1500 A one. Perhaps the additional power is too much for the 'reverse screw seal'. I would be interested in any comments.

Paul Dean

Engine and box came out yesterday and this morning, the gearbox rear seal put up a fight, but beating the Bejasus out of it with a 2kg hammer and a suitable chisel shifted it after five minutes. The car has evidently had gearbox work sometime, as the mounting bolt was inserted from the wrong side and I had to get the air saw out to deal with it.

Then while removing the speedo drive to replace the oil seal, I dropped the gear back into the box, so had to remove the lockout cover to retrieve it. Then I found I couldn't find a front cover seal, although I could swear I had one in my hand last week .... ordered one locally today.

So the gearbox fought me all the way but I have won (I think)

The clutch bearing is worn, the operating lever is fine, but rod and clevis pin are REALLY worn, as was the clevis pin at the clutch pedal. I think the clutch will have a much more positive pedal after I am done.
Dominic Clancy

This thread was discussed between 20/07/2020 and 25/07/2020

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