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MG MGA - Tools and spares for trip

In June of this year I am setting of on what for me is a big adventure leaving the UK to drive through Belgium, Germany, and Austria to meet up with some mad Australians (who seem to think that driving there MG�s from China to Longbridge in England might be a bit of fun) in Italy, then drive up through Switzerland and across into France before heading back home to dear old Yorkshire, as you may understand I�m very exited at this prospect and in preparation for the trip I have overhauled or renewed nearly everything within reason that I think may go wrong obviously something else will find me out and I would like to be at least a little prepared so anyone�s input would be welcome.
So apart from the obvious, jack ,small socket set, screw drivers and bearing in mind the weight and space limitations, what do you think I should take i.e. spanner size selection and spare parts etc, sorry if this post is a bit long winded and thank you in advance for any suggestions, Vin
Vin Rafter

Wow - that is brilliant Vin - and so soon after getting your MGA going. Make sure you have a 7/16; 1/2 and 9/16 open ender and ring spanner with you - they fit most jobs ( e.g fan belt) . I would also take a spare fuel pump, water pump & coil together with plugs, points and capacitor. Good luck - make sure you post updates on your journey at every opportunity - cheers Cam
Cam Cunningham

The only things I would add to Cam�s list are a throttle cable and an inner tube.
David Werblow

Cam, thank you, that is exactly the kind of advise im looking for, Vin
Vin Rafter

Spare set of bulbs/hi-vis vests(mandatory) for France.Fan belt,reflector triangle( mandatory most everywhere),jump leads,soldering iron and solder(believe me, I needed them after my headlights wiring broke inside the binnacle in my B in France).Dictionary--French,German,Italian,(from Yorkshire)English.
MR Blencowe

With a pair of large screw drivers it's possible to change out a tube without taking the car to a shop (an air pump also, of course). Back before I got new wheels that was a useful skill. With the new wheels, I've not had any problems (even into the 80s over long distances; e.g. Wyoming, Nevada). I figured even if the knockoff was seized, I could replace the tube in a pinch. Never had to test that theory.
Dave McCann

I travel in Europe every year mostly in my MGA but occasionally in my midget.

The ONLY spares I take is a spare distributor (Fully tooled up with points etc) a dynamo and fan belt.

Everything else I believe can be bought easily in Europe. The tools I take are rudimentary as again big jobs can be done easily by local garages and the Europeans (unlike us Brits) enjoy accomadating and helping fellow Europeans. :)

Rail of 3/8th sockets with small ratchet and a selection of extensions
Roll of AF combination spanners 5/16 to 3/4
Adjustable spanner
Small stylsons
Assorted screw drivers
assorted pliers
Lamp and fuse kit

If you are not carefull you can create an argument to take a spare car.
The faults I have had to deal with to give you some idea why it is a waste of time taking parts that are never required.

exhaust fell apart. (Easily repaired after a visit to a motorshop
Oil cooler ruptured (bypassed with one of the hoses and 2 large spanners)
Front pulley fell apart almost! (Rivetted type) Small french garage helped me remove pulley and rivetted it back together. (Cost bottle of Red!)
2 wheel studs broke (Cone cut from wheel nut and used with a nut and bolt with bolt from inside of drum cone in wheel and nut on the outside) did 1500 miles.

ETC

Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Would you have taken any of those parts?
Oh and forgot battery failed one time. (You buy those in french supermarkets!! LOL.)
Where will you carry a spare battery LOL.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Here's an article that was written by a friend of mine. An earlier version was in MGA! a few years ago and this one was written for a local newsletter. It's a bit much for me, but may give you some ideas. [This is long.]

Road Trip Checklist
by Mike Jacobsen
During the June Wine Country Tour, two of the cars on the tour �failed to proceed.� We were able to get both of them going again thanks to a box of parts & tools that were in my car. The box contains things that have proven useful over the years to resolve many of the problems you�re likely to see when traveling with a 30- to 60-year-old car. (The contents of the box are listed elsewhere.)
Having the box along is only half of what you need on a trip. The other half is to prepare the car before you leave. While it wouldn�t have helped either of the cars on the Wine Tour (coils about to fail and defective shock absorbers can�t be spotted in advance), pre-trip preparation is still a good idea. The following checklist was originally created for a cross-country trip, but much of it applies to a day trip through the countryside.
First, things to do before leaving home. This list might seem lengthy, but it contains items that should be done annually or even less often, depending on how much you drive your car.
engine
� Adjust valves
� Check the timing
� Check the fuel line for cracks and leaks
� Replace or clean the fuel filter
� Check fan belt tension and condition
� Check plugs, high tension wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser and replace if necessary
� Check that the vacuum advance is still hooked up and working
Cooling system
� Check coolant level (Use a 50-50 mix.)
� Check the pressure cap�s seal
� Check the hoses (heater too) for cracks and softness
Lube
� Engine oil & filter change
� Oil the generator & distributor
� Check the carb oil levels
� Chassis lube
� Check the transmission, steering rack and rear axle levels
� Repack the wheel bearings if you haven�t done this for several years
brakes & clutch
� Check the front brake linings
� Check the fluid level in the master cylinder(s)
� Look for leaks along the lines (No kidding � you can go a long time with a small leak.)
� Check the three brake hoses and the clutch hose for swelling, cracks and softness
General things to check
� Battery electrolyte levels
� Battery terminals and clamps
� Shock absorber fluid levels (Even the rears.)
� Look for broken spokes in the wheels if you have wire wheels
� Check tire pressures (Remember the spare!)
� Fuel pump electrical and piping connections. (And the points for the very ambitious.)
� Check the exhaust system for leaks and secure mounting
� Check that the front suspension hardware is secure, and that the A-arm bushings are OK
Weirdies that have surprised me in the past, but that I check now
� Check the nuts on the rear axle U-bolts (The car will rear steer if they�re loose.)
� Make sure that the choke and throttle cables aren�t frayed (Frayed ones get stuck in the housings and hold the throttle open.)
� Clean the fuse contacts in the fuse box (Corrosion here can disable the entire electrical system.)
� Check the front & rear shock absorber mountings (Loose ones cause funny clunks that you can never find.)
� Lube the driveshaft U-joints, if you can, and check for wear (You can�t tell they�re bad at freeway speeds until it�s too late.)
� Look for leaks at the hose between the engine and oil gauge pipe (You�ll see a mist near the hose if it�s going away.)
You may see some omissions. I�ve given up checking the rear brake linings on my car. I�ve always had to change them because they became oil-soaked before they wore out. I�m also not going to bother to check the carbs� mixture and balance � since they never screw up, I never mess with them. Also, consider changing a fluid where I suggested just checking its level, if you haven�t done so in awhile. Check your service manual for the recommended intervals.
Once these �annually or even less often� items are checked, I check these things every morning:
� Engine oil level
� Coolant level
� A general check for loose or leaking items
That�s it. It seems like a lot of stuff to do (and bring, if you looked at the parts & tools list), but you�re going to need to do those things sooner or later, so why not before the trip? Peace of mind while far from home is a wonderful thing.
Road Trip Supply Box Packing List
Items tagged with a � are not carried in the supply box.

TOOLS
(1) set of combo wrenches
3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16
(1) ignition wrench set
7/32, 15/64, 1/4, 9/32, 5/16, 11/32, 3/8, 7/16
(1) set of gear wrenches
3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16
(1) 1/4" slotted screwdriver
(1) 1/8" slotted screwdriver
(1) stubby 1/4" slotted screwdriver
(1) #2 Phillips screwdriver
(1) stubby #2 Phillips screwdriver
(1) pocket knife
(1) SU jet wrench
(1) Lucas ignition screwdriver/feeler gauge
(1) feeler gauge set
(1) test lead with alligator clips
(1) 8" adjustable wrench
(1) 8" locking pliers
(1) 6" needle-nose pliers
(1) 6" lineman�s pliers
(1) wire crimp tool
(1) small VOM
(1) 8" combo file
(1) 8" round bastard file
(1) points file
(1) tire valve multi-tool
� (1) cheapo 3/8" & 1/4" socket set
(1) hydraulic bleed line w/ check valve
(1) small flashlight
SUPPLIES
(2) pair latex gloves
(1) box of electrical crimp & Lucas tubular connectors
(1) box of assorted hardware
(1) small (2 oz) WD-40
(3) highway flares
(2) clean rags
� (1) old towel (wrapped around socket set)
(30) 4" wire ties � mixed colors
(5) 8" wire ties
(5) 15" wire ties
(1) piece of 240 grit sandpaper
(1) piece of medium emery cloth
(1) tube of hand cleaner
(1) bottle of Rain-X
(1) new bottle Castrol DOT 4 brake fluid
(1) coil of safety wire
(1) roll of electrical tape
(1) short roll of duct tape
(1) paper gasket material
(1) cork gasket material
(1) tube of #2 Permatex (non-hardening)
PARTS
(1) assorted hose clamps
(two of each size on car)
(1) 2' length 10 gauge wire
(1) top radiator hose (Magnette)
(1) top/bottom radiator hose (MGA/B)
(1) intermediate radiator hose (all)
(1) thermostat & gasket
(1) 3' length of heater hose
(2) 1 3/8" freeze plugs or rubber expansion plug
(1) 18" length of fuel line
(1) vacuum line & fittings
(2) 8' lengths 16 gauge wire
(1) 2' High tension wire
(1) ignition parts set (in separate bag)
sparkplugs (pre-gapped)
points condenser screws
low-tension lug & lead
(6) carb/manifold gaskets
(3) exhaust manifold studs & brass nuts
(1) set generator brushes
(1) fuel pump point set
(1) box of fuses
(1) bolt-on battery cable clamp
(1) ignition coil
� (1) voltage regulator (MGA/Magnette)
� (1) generator
� (1) fuel pump (generic or SU)
� (1) water pump
� (1) distributor w/ cap, rotor & wires
� (3) quarts motor oil
Parts to consider adding
Throttle cable (or bike gear cable)
Oil bypass pipe
Oil filter & gaskets
Lightbulbs
Tail/brake Parking lights
Dash lights (?) Headlight
Hydraulic rebuild kits
Slave cylinder Master cylinder(s)
Wheel cylinder Caliper
Carburetor rebuild kit
ITEMS DUPLICATED IN EVERY CAR
Service manual
Flashlight
Jack
Lug wrench or knockoff hammer
Fan belt (& air pump belt for later cars)


Notes on the Packing List
� The list was developed with an MGA and Magnette in mind. You�ll want to make some adjustments for an MGB, Midget, or T-Series car.
� The box is a plastic storage container with a snap-on lid, selected because it was leak proof and because it fit in both an MGA trunk and an MGB/GT spare tire well. You can use whatever is large enough to hold what you need and still fit in the car. Some folks use a heavy canvas tool bag or a tool roll with pockets sewn into it.
� I use smaller plastic boxes within the main box to keep small hardware sorted and to protect soft items like gaskets.
� If you don�t want to use a box, most of the parts can fit under the spare (you�re not going to need them anyway, right?), and the tools can be rolled up into a towel and stuffed along an edge of the trunk where they�re out of the way but can still be reached without having to unpack.
� The service manual is probably the most important item. Even if you don�t plan on working on the car yourself, having the manual in case of a breakdown could make the difference between a local mechanic being able to fix the car or not.
� The parts to take depend on what you think your car might need. For example, a fuel pump isn�t necessary if the car�s pump is fairly new.
� The hoses, belt, fuel pump, and distributor pieces will be ones that have already seen action. After all, these are spares, and are only to get you home and not to go into regular use.
� No first-rate tools go in the car. Good tools are expensive, and old MGs don�t lock. I had a toolbox stolen once, and now my traveling tools come from the discount stores. They�re not going to be used often, so I�m not likely to bend or break them.
� The seemingly limited selection of wrenches and sockets is enough to fit the things you�ll be able to fix in a parking lot or on the roadside.
� The wire is for testing things or wiring stuff back onto the car, not for replacing pieces of the harness, though it could be used that way. Wiring is pretty reliable (no moving parts) and none of my electrical problems have ever been caused by faulty wires. What has caused problems are the connections, which is the reason for bringing the crimp terminals.
� The tubing is for bleeding the hydraulics. You can always find a bottle or can to hold the fluid bled.

Dave McCann

Hello Vin,
I�m following this forum for a while now (silently), but maybe it�s the moment to react now. I�m thinking of a different approach. In my opinion, it wouldn�t be fun to carry half a MGA in parts with me on a trip, and still have the feeling that I�m not covered for whatever might breakdown.
I live in the north east of Belgium, relatively close to the German border.
There are at least 170 MG owners in the area I live (Limburg) and Limburg is 1/6 the size of Yorkshire. This means an MG is not a rarity here. There must at least be several MG�s in every city. (Not all of them MGA)
Within a 30� drive, there is a parts dealer with every common MGA part on the shelf. (Dynamo, water pump, starter motor, coil, etc.) This means it can be organised, that most MGA parts can be available within a few hours, after a phone call.
It must be possible to find similar contacts along your route, and carry only basic tools and first aid parts. There are already lots of suggestions on those.
If this can be of any help for your trip, let me know, so we can exchange more detailed info.
Rik
R de Krom

Have you looked at the RAC, costs about �200.00 for a year, but easily packed, it fits in the space you now have in your wallet.
R W McIntosh

Vin, in addition to the list that Dave McCann shared add a small funnel for pouring brake/clutch fluid into the resevoirs and 3' of 1/8" plastic tubing for bleeding the hydraulics. On a recent 3000 mile trip with Mike Jacobsen (list generator) I needed to bleed my clutch and he had a hydralic hose but nothing to pour the fluid into the clutch resevoir. We improvised with a roadside paper funnel.

Andy
60 MGA Coupe
67 MGB which broke down.
Andy Preston

Dave McCann's commnets and list are priceless.
Also, have a shufti at Barney Gaylord's site.
Barney also has some plans and ideas for a trailer and hitch, so you can carry all the spares.
Fraser Cooper

I don't go anywhere near as far as Mike, but it's surprising how small the kit he has is. Everything other than the large spares fits into something about the size of a large shoebox.
Dave McCann

The best you can do is drive the car regularly before the trip, and let any faults show up before you leave (and not the night before or after!

The only spares I carry are a set of 1/4 sockets and ratchet, selection of screwdrivers, combo spanners in range of sizes, stubby 7/16-9/16 combos, pliers, small mole wrench, spare distributor plate set up and ready to screw in, rear brake bike cable, cable ties, tape, heat shrink, cable connectors, fuses and a selection of nuts, bolts and washers (the one you drop inevitably turns out to land where it can't be found or retrieved in a hot engine bay!) Also carry a set of fuel pump points and feeler gauge and a sapre set of plugs. I have always been able to get breakdowns going except for a piston through the block (mine), broken diff carrier (not mine), shattered dynamo pulley (also mine). The only time i needed the spare wheel was the only time when I didn't have it (boot was instead full of red wine etc.....) but being the only one in our club with easy maintenance steel wheels that comes under sods law!

On the subject of wheel nuts, I have come to the conclusion (like Bob West) that the current moss supplied ones are too small, as I have had two wheels fail because of cracking / wearing of the wheel at the cone.

I also have a very well stocked workshop if you need one here, as well as my spares kit. See you in Davos!
dominic clancy

Hi Vin
Dave Godwin here - the Mad Aussie leading the other Mad Aussies across half the world to meet you in Brescia, Italy!
My advice? Prepare well, drive the MGA heaps before you leave and take little - as Domonic says! Most repairs can be effected by mates you make along the way - and people love to help us Mad MG lovers... The list of tools and parts offered to you is longer than we are taking for one MGA and 5 MGB's to travel from MG China to MG Britain!!!
Good luck with your trip and I hope you enjoy Mike and Lou's company - they are great MG lovers - 7 registered MGs at the last count!
Dave


David Godwin

Hello Dave, Im just fine tuning my kit,....so thats a 1/2" 7/16 a 9/16 and a fan belt,.......sorted!! Vin.
Vin Rafter

I use a single 21 volt battery which leaves the other battery box rack available to a Tupperware container with my emergency road spares. I do keep the spare accelerator cable extra mechanics and electrical wire and, of course duct tape under the spare tire.
Keith Lowman

WoW Kieth!!!!! That 21 volt battery must really turn the old girl over fast. Just kidding. My typing can't keep up with my mind either.

(Will I see you at the swap meet this month?)
Chuck Schaefer

I have every intention of being there. Who knows a few extra volts can come in handy with these cars.
Keith Lowman

Vin, I just had a moment of inspiration about your essential spares list, why dont you do what the US army do in Europe and pre-position numerous packs of spares in strategic sites on your proposed route?

If this sounds a little over the top you could have just the one comprehensive container-load of spares and tools (as described by Dave McGann above) and get a trucking company to keep moving it each day it to your overnight stops.

Or if cost isnt important then you could have a number of spare MGAs parked on your route and in the event of mechanical problems you could just swap cars. Like the cyclists do with their broken bikes on the Tour de France!

Sorry! got a bit carried away just then (apologies to Daves friend, Mike Jacobson in San Fran)

When I last drove an MGA abroad (to Interlaken Switzerland) I took a very small tool kit,including just the few combination ring/open ended spanners and sockets sizes that fit MGA nuts and bolts. You dont need a full socket set as most will not fit anything on the car. Screw drivers, pliers, feeler gauges, adjustable spanner or stilsons,cable ties, insulating tape.
I took an old compete dizzy with points set,cap, rotor arm and leads,an old coil, couple of old plugs, a spare old fuel pump, a used but working water pump, fan belt,fuses and a spare set of wheel nuts.

Out of all these I used only the cable ties to secure a wayward throttle cable that had come adrift from its bracket.

So dont go over the top with spares, most parts are only 24 hours away via courier from the uk, or probably much quicker from local suppliers.
Most likely your car will be in much better condition than most after its rebuild and you wont even need the cable ties!
The secret is to run it as much as you can before your trip so that find and fix any snags well in advance.
Most early running problems are with fuel supply, ignition or electrics so the more you run it, the quicker you can sort it.

Would love to see your car Vin, let me know when you want to run it and I would be happy to follow along in my car.
Colyn


Colyn Firth

Remember to bring a tarp to go under or over the car while working on it.
Russ
Russ Carnes

This thread was discussed between 03/02/2010 and 18/02/2010

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