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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGA - Twin Cam Bulkhead Schematics

Does anyone know where the dimensions of the twin cam bulkhead can be found? I might also be interested in buying a twin cam bulkhead, if anyone knows of one for sale.

Thanks,
Steve
Steve Brandt

Contact http://autovintagery.com/index.html.

He should be able to help you.
JP Jim

Steve,

What do you mean by bulkhead? The dictionary definition is a "vertical panel". Do you mean the vertical panel behind the heater?
Why do you think that the Twin Cam panel is different from the one on the pushrod car? The only difference is the position for the heater hole in the horizontal panel.

Mick
Mick Anderson

Mick:

Technically you are correct with respect to the definition of "bulkhead." However, on the MGA, the bulkhead is formed by bending a single sheet of metal into an "L" shape, part of which is the vertical panel, and part of which forms the heater shelf. I did not think my terminology shortcut was that confusing. The twin cam shelf differs in at least three ways from the pushrod shelf: 1) the location of the heater hole, 2) the difference in the size of the openings for the pedals, 3) and the location of the frame mounting holes. Since the pedal box is spaced wider than on the pushrod, the through holes in the bulkhead and the shelf to which the pedal box is attached are also in different locations. I am modifying a pushrod body to fit onto a twin cam frame and am using the twin cam pedal box. It would make the conversion easier to have the information on the layout dimensions. I hope this clears up any confusion my post may have caused.

Thanks,
Steve
Steve Brandt

Steve,

Thanks for that.
I do not have the measurements that you require, but I have loaded two photos to the Internet. One for the panel on the MGA Deluxe and one for the Twin Cam.
Probably not much use, only shows what you already know. If you are converting a pushrod body to a Twin Cam body are you making the other changes in case you fit a Twin Cam engine later? (Indentation for rear air cleaner, removeable wheel arch panels, moving the radiator support panels further forward, and shorter horizontal panel between radiator and air intake).

http://www.angelfire.com/amiga/mga/index.html


Mick
Mick Anderson

Steve,
I'm sure if you ring someone like bob west, he may have a template you could use. Don't email though.

http://www.anfh.co.uk/classics/mga.htm

Out of interest for the Twin Cam group, what chassis number are you restoring ?

Cheers <MARK>
801
Mark Hester

Mick:

Along with the frame, pedal box assembly, and individual master cylinders, I am using an authentic TC steering rack, the louvered removable wheel arch panels, and replacing the front radiator/air intake shelf with the shorter TC dimensioned unit. I was not aware that the radiator support brackets were in a different location on the two bodies. I certainly would be interested in that dimension also. Since I am modifing a 1959 pushrod body, I think that the right wheel arch has been stamped with the later style depression to clear the TC rear air cleaner - just as the later style bodies came with the higher clearance hoods (bonnets) to clear the front of the TC engine. (However, I have not made a side-by-side comparison with a TC body, so I could be wrong about the stamping I have.)

I do not have any immediate plans to install a twin cam engine. Honestly, it is personally not one of my favorite OHC engine mechanical designs (no disrespect intended) and, in any event, since I am not starting with a true numbers-matching TC, such a car would probably always be viewed as a "poser" or "Frankenstein" by the hardcore purists. Realistically, if I did have a complete, restored TC, I'm not sure that I could enjoy driving it regularly without worrying about damage or theft. This car is going together with a 5 main MGB engine, Moss supercharger, Sierra five speed, and MGB brakes/suspension (with rear composite springs) and is being built for pleasure driving on nice days.

Mark:

The frame I am using was powder coated before I bought it. I need to do some minor floorboard rail repair in the area where the S/N is located and will try to retrieve the number using a chemical stripper since the numbers are lightly stamped. I don't know how the frame was cleaned prior to powder coating, but if it was sandblasted, I'm not overly optimistic of success.

Thanks,
Steve
Steve Brandt

Steve,

As your steering rack is from a Twin Cam I assume that it has the lubrication fittings facing downwards, as shown in the Twin Cam Workshop Manual?
As you said, you probably already have the depression for the front Twin Cam air cleaner (not rear as I said earlier). These depressions are shown on page 23 of Clausager's book "Original MGA".
The shorter horizontal panel in front of the Twin Cam radiator is because the radiator is further forward on the Twin Cam, hence the vertical support panels are further forward.
However, if you move the radiator forward there is no hood clearance for a standard MGA pushrod radiator header tank and filler. That is why the Twin Cam had the radiator header tank at the side of the engine.

Mick
Mick Anderson

Mick:

Yes, the TC steering rack I have has the race-positioned zerks and the 3/4" longer pinion shaft. I needed the extension because of the forward positioning of the rack mounts on the frame. I could have bought the extended pinion shaft from Jim Alcorn, but I'm am trying to keep as many original parts as I can find and was lucky to find someone who had an extra original to sell. Maybe some future owner will want to go the TC engine route and the conversion would be a simple bolt in after I'm through with this build.

I need to move the radiator forward since I am using a 5 main water pump that positions the fan uncomfortably close to the radiator. I had planned to use 3/8" spacers similar to those used in the Judson SC kit. If the pushrod radiator is moved that far, it will still clear the hood. I thought that both the TC radiator core and main tank are wider than the pushrod unit. I have no information about the relative installed heights. Taking both factors into consideration, I wonder exactly how far forward the TC radiator mounts were positioned? It would be slightly cleaner and certainly more consistent with my conversion approach to reposition the mounts, if the radiator will clear the bonnet. Any help with determining the positions would be greatly appreciated. In any event, this is the first time I have heard that the radiator mounts on the TC were actually positioned differently than the pushrod versions.

BTW, I did check Clausager's pictures and my right side inner fender stamping appears to be identical to the picures of the TC inner fender.

Steve
Steve Brandt

Steve

Moving the rad forward with the Judson type spacers does NOT allow the use of a standard rad without any modification - the rad header tank front corners foul the lips on the front of the hood.

The solution is either a minor reshaping of the front corners of the header tank with a universal screwdriver, or to drop the rad about 1/2". Leaving out the cardboard rad mounting gaskets is also necessary, every mm counts here!

Dominic
dominic clancy

Dominic:

Thanks very much for the information. This should be interesting. I had a custom all aluminum radiator made for this application and the top tank is slightly thinner than the stock unit. I haven't mounted it yet, but when I do, I will pay particular attention to the hood clearance.

Mick:

I forgot to thank you for posting the pictures. Although they don't have the dimensions, they are very helpful. My shelf will be more like the Deluxe version because of the type of heater I will use with the supercharger.

Thanks,
Steve
Steve Brandt

This thread was discussed between 04/05/2006 and 06/05/2006

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