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MG MGA - wheel conversion

I'd like to swap the stock wheels on my 59 coupe with some mini lites or wire wheels and some beefier tires. Anyone out there with recommendations or suggestions/comments on this? Any idea what I should expect to pay for this conversion in the Portland, Or. area?
Also, I would love to have my car ride a little smoother. Like...not break my back over every bump in the road. I'm assuming (maybe incorrectly?) that it is the nature of the beast. Any ideas on shock conversions, or whatever, to help smooth out my ride? Or should I just grin and bear it?

Thanks in advance for any responses.
P.R. Fahey

Bolt-on wheel to wire wheel conversion can be quite expensive. The most reasonable way is to find a friend who wants to do the conversion the other way, park both cars side by side and do the parts swap in one long day. You have to change the front hubs and the entire rear axle assembly. It is a little trickier if swapping between drum and disc brakes.

Larger wheels and tires may add unsprung weight, making the ride more harsh on bumpy roads. More massive tires also reduce acceleration somewhat due to higher rotational inertia. Wider tires may have less grip in rain or snow. Tires too large may never get up to appropriate running temperature for best adhesion, especially for short competition runs like autocross, so larger is not always better.

Lower tire pressure makes for softer ride. I run my radial tires in the 25-27 psi range for normal touring, boosting the pressure several psi higher for competition work, depending on track conditions.

If you contemplate brisk driving on wire wheels, get at least 60-spoke wheels for street use, or 72-spoke wheels for competition work. Be very careful (or concerned) about chrome plated spokes, as they can sometimes break due to hydrogen embrittlement induced during the plating process (if not properly stress relieved after plating). Consider painted wire wheels, or chrome wheels with stainless steel spokes.

Stock steel bolt-on wheels are not great for strength, as they can develop stress cracks with extended competition use. MGA 1600 type steel wheels are a bit better than 1500 type wheels. The later design has thicker center disc and thinner rim, overall stronger and 2-pounds lighter (but still not great for competition or larger tires). Bolt-on hubs give a much greater selection of alternate wheel styles.
Barney Gaylord

Mini lite style wheels are a bolt on, nothing to it except for spending the money. As far as tires go, as Barney said you don't want to go too large, a 175 series should do fine and be about as big as you would want to go.
These are sports cars and do ride fairly stiff, but you can improve the ride quality somewhat by making sure the rear springs are clean and lubricated between the leaves either with grease, graphite, or plastic spacers between the leaves. Using original rubber bushings on the front suspension will soften the ride somewhat but at some reduction in handling precision and bushing life.
Shocks are pretty reliable, but can leak and should be checked for proper operation and fluid level. Easy on the front, a little more difficult in the rear. If your shocks are leaking badly or worn out then I'd suggest getting them rebuilt by Peter Caldwell at World Wide http://www.nosimport.com/ He's the best and his shocks are literally better than new when he's done with them.
Another way to convert from disc wheels to wires is to swap in the components from a MGB. Not the purists way, but the components are plentiful and easy to get for a reasonable price. Barney has information on the front conversion on his web site, the rear axle is a bolt in with some differences in the parking brake linkage.
Bill Young

Hello,

You could find a lot of aftermarket wheels with 4x4.5" bolts pattern with positive offset like A. Have a look at post here few days ago under the name: "tire for roller".

You will find a site I mentioned there that could give you the proper tire choice. But have in mind: lower the profile involve harder the ride. Which means: do not go lower than profile 70.
And also brand selection is important for flexwall, like Pirelli or Michelin or cheaper brand like Marshall. With the latter you will loose for handling side. But that does not appears your main goal.

side availiable
165/80x15
195/70x15


Cheers,

Jean
Jean Guy Catford

Thanks for the information, guys. From what I've read, I believe I will steer clear of the wire wheels. Not only does it sound like a lot of work, it seems that a number of people have had issues with the wire wheels.

Is it really true that the mini-lites are just a bolt-on with no modifications what-so-ever?? I thought I read somewhere that modifications were required to the front end to make the mini-lites fit the MGA.
That's great if no modifications are needed but I'd hate to purchase the wheels and find out that they won't fit. Can someone verify this? Thanks!


P.R. Fahey

If you buy wheels designed for the MGA they should fit without any problem if you use a reasonable sized tire. Here's what Barney's site has to say about these wheels and some other options. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/wheels/wl201.htm
Another option is steel wheels from a Triumph TR6. These have a little wider rim and can mount a slightly larger tire. Here's a photo of a MGA with Tr6 wheels installed. The owner added some fake knock offs to the center caps.


Bill Young

Thanks, Bill. I think I'll go with the minilite 15 x 5 1/2. I appreciate the feedback.
P.R. Fahey

The primary requirement for bolt-on wheels is the large offset needed to put the centerline of the tire in the correct position. Original offset for the standard steel wheel is 1-5/8" (41-mm). Many alloy wheels advertised for use with MGA do not have enough offset, regardless of what the supplier may say, some being in the 19-mm to 28-mm range. Even 28-mm is still 1/2-inch to far outboard (a big problem with wide tires). I would recommend ALWAYS demanding to know the offset dimension of the wheels before buying.
Barney Gaylord

So, evidently the mini-lite 'bolt on' wheels aren't exactly just 'bolt on'. As usual, in my anxiousness to have something new, I didn't read far enough before I ordered.
The wheels I am getting are only a 19mm offset. Now I read that I need a 41mm offset. Crap. Anybody out there know what my best option is for my situation. I don't have the wheels yet but they're on the way UPS.
Can they be ground? Seems like a lot of grinding and what would the affect be on the integrity of the wheel?
(if they can be ground that much) Or am I being overly concerned?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Help!
P.R. Fahey

It would have to be milled or turned on a big lathe to remove that much material and keep it flat and true. 22mm is nearly 7/8-inch, which is a hell of a lot thinning for the structural center web of the wheel. I doubt that the wheel center is thick enough to do that. I suppose the options are either live with it as is, or send them back and look for different wheels.
Barney Gaylord

Down here in Australia we love our wire wheels (chromed or painted) - that's how CKD MGAs came here - we grew up with them. We have very little trouble with them considering that some of them are 50 years old!
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

I'd send the wheels back and get different offset. I would NOT grind that much off to make them fit.
Bill Spohn

This thread was discussed between 23/04/2009 and 29/04/2009

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