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MG MGA - which head studs to use?
I want to install new head studs during my engine rebuild. Moss sells a set of "competition head studs", but they're $190. Are these the ARP studs? Is a set of standard head studs sufficient for a stock MGA engine? Looking for opinions from you guys... Thanks, George. |
G Goeppner |
Hi George. The answer to your question"Is a set of standard head studs sufficient for a stock MGA engine?" is yes and no. It depends on the specific studs you purchase. Normally standard MGA head studs are completely adequate for a stock MGA engine. The problem is that many MGA parts including various studs, are now being manufactured offshore, and some are of poor quality. I dont know if head studs are currently having quality issues, but I know that other MGA stud components have had quality issues of late. I would suggest that any studs that you do purchase be "pre tested" before installation. Clamp em in a vice, install a nut, and use a torque wrench to see if they will take the required torque without snapping or twisting. Often, industrial fasterner supply houses will sell high strength studs that are suitable for MGA use, at relatively reasonable prices. You might want to check around. Hope this helps. Glenn.. |
Glenn Hedrich |
George, $190 for studs is ridiculous, IMHO. Art |
A Pearse |
George. The Rover manufactured studs have, in the past, tended to break when torqued. Somewhere at about the 5% rate in my experience. (One broken stud from two complete sets.) How well the Rover labeled studs will hold up will have to be determined over a period of years. Some feel that the original, factory studs are superior to the current Rover studs and recommend re-use of the factory studs if they are in good condition. I tend to worry about the original studs, being under stress for 30+ years, fatiguing over that period. Hence, I tend to replace the studs when doing a rebuild. But, some well qualified engine rebuilders do reuse the factory studs. The ARP studs are quite good and quite expensive. Chris Betson, of Octarine Services in the UK, sells an upgraded set of cylinder head studs which he has made to his specifications. Better quality, he claims, than the Rover studs, but not as expensive as the ARP studs. I have used one set so far and like them. Seem to represent good value for the money. Chris has a website which can be found through a Google search for "Octarine Services" and does ship to the US. As a general note, the only thing more expensive than a "racing quality" fastener is a "duplicates factory quality" fastener that breaks in use. Recently, a connecting rod bolt, purchased from Moss Motors, stretched in use, resulting in the almost total destruction of a very expensive engine with only 150 miles on it. Rockwell hardness testing of the original factory bolts showed an average hardness (Rockwell C scale) of 34 plus or minus 1. Testing of the failed bolts showed that they were reading 22-24 on the Rockwell scale. Testing of other Moss supplied connecting rod bolts showed a much greater range of hardness (some significantly harder and some significantly softer) than the original factory bolts. Consider this when making your decision. Les |
Les Bengtson |
George, go to your local speed shop/parts supplier, they will be able to match the studs, if not, at least direct you to a supplier. |
J Dick |
George, APT has them for 140 http://www.aptfast.com/ |
gary starr |
Look under, menu, top left column, then "click here for APT parts" then B series and then fastners and components |
gary starr |
Had a "new" head stud snap when trying to apply the final torque. Replaced them all with the ARP stud set, which worked fine. I did use the original type nuts for appearance sake. For a stock engine, the racing studs are way overkill, but it beats using what passes for "standard" studs these days. |
Del Rawlins |
This thread was discussed between 07/10/2008 and 08/10/2008
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