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MG MGA - Wire wheel Conversion (please don't yawn)

Hi Guys, I know this has been done to death; and I have searched the archives but I have a question regarding the wire wheel conversion kits. I understand that the all of conversion kits involve an increase in rear wheel track width due to the different axle types for wire/disc cars. There seem to be two types of kit available, the Moss and british wire wheel type where the hubs just bolt on or the more expensive SC parts one which includes replacement half shafts.

Is one type of kit better than the other and is it easy to fit the half shafts (I have read that they need pressing into the hubs with 5-10 ton force?
s e Rimmer

The "proper" ww conversion requires to fit a WW axle cae and shafts. The case is 2" narrower than the disc wheel type, and the shafts correspondingly shorter.
Art Pearse

The conversion halfshaft (from SC, Moss and others) comes together with hub and replicates the wire wheel axle, albeit slightly wider. The options are explained reasonably well in the Moss Europe MGA catalogue on page 26.

It seems from a comment by Kelvin Dodd (Moss) on another forum that these conversion halfshafts are not marketed in North America.
Neil McGurk

Yep I realise the 'correct' way is to change the axle, so I gather then from Neils comments that the half shaft conversion will still make the axle wider but not as much as the more simple bolt on hubs. Is it a straight forward job to change the half shafts?
s e Rimmer

Yes, it's very straightforward, just make sure that you get the correct splines as there were three different types used on the MGA.

Remove the brake drums and the c/sunk screws into the hub and they will pull straight out. you may have to pry the hub apart with a flat screwdriver to break the seal (paper gasket) and you should change the paper gasket and 'o' ring when you fit the new half shaft together with splined hub extension. You also need to change the hub nuts and shorten or change the studs.

The steel wheel axle is 7/8" wider each side, the bolt on splined hub extensions add 1 1/4" at each corner so the rear wheels will end up over four inches further apart if you go that route! The front bolt-on splines are only suitable for drum brakes and it is recommended that you switch front hubs (not much more cost) for discs.
Neil McGurk

I am considering bolt-on wire wheels as this would allow easily switching back and forth between wires and disc or mini-lites. Does this offset issue exist with bolt-on wires?
Tx
Gerry
G T Foster

For cost reasons the best way to go is to find a complete rear axle assembly. To use new parts would cost over $800. If you use a complete assembly the spline count does not matter. If you order new axles and hubs you need to match what you have. To be sure someone did not "get creative" you must pull the axles and count the splines.
The reason the longer axles may be available only in Europe may be that the cost and availability of a suitable used rear axle may make new axles a viable choice. There were many more MGAs or early MGBs that could donate an axle here in the states than in England.
R J Brown

New conversion half shafts and hubs are less than half that price here in UK (depending on number of splines) and are available from Moss (306.24 - 333.98), MWS, SC, MGOC and others (250 pounds from Superlite Wheels: http://www.superlite-wheels.com/ )

The price of a full conversion kit (using new complete front hubs) varies from about 390 pounds to over 600 depending on supplier and model (higher cost if using new drums on 1500).
Neil McGurk

I have a complete axle, hubs, half shafts (less diff) + front assemblies for a 1600 (all requiring refurb). contact me direct if you wish more info.
Mark
Mark Dollimore

Thanks Neil, I think I'll go the half shaft conversion route; I hadn't noticed that superlite also sold the parts and also at such a reasonable price.
s e Rimmer

By far the cheapest way to fit wires to the rear of an MGA is to simply bolt on Triumph wire wheel adaptors.

You can either hack off the studs to fit the special nuts that come with them, or do as I do and add a 3/8" spacer under the adaptor, which makes converting back again as simple as unbolting the adaptors and putting the bolt on wheels back on again.

Please note that while width isn't critical on the MGA, that is not the case on the MGB where a different wheel well design means that the slighly wider track width that comes from using this method may or may not cause fouling on the MGB.




Bill Spohn

This thread was discussed between 06/12/2009 and 09/12/2009

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This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGA BBS is active now.