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MG MGA - Worn out Turn Signal Thread
Anybody got any ideas what can be done with a worn plastic thread on the turn switch? When tightened by hand the chromed & knurled nut can be made to rotate over the stripped thread. Having a little success using PTFE thread tape, but just wondered if anybody came up with a good solution. The switch itself works a treat, so does not really need replacing. Pete |
Pete Tipping |
Pete, Loctite makes a thread restoring kit that I have used on metal. Not sure about plastic but you may want to check it out. It has been holding on my clutch slave cylinder mounting bolt for 10 years. |
John H |
If you have access to machine shop services, they could create a threaded plastic ring which then could be epoxy bonded to the stripped thread after turning the diameter down to fit the threaded ring Inside Diameter. |
D Sjostrom |
Thanks John - I know all about loctite working with metals. Even if there is a version which works with metal/plastic, I would still like it to come undone and be reuseable. There is no real locking problem. Pete |
Pete Tipping |
Pete, I haven't done this with a turn signal body but have had pretty good success with some other items. Try applying some epoxy (I like JB Weld) to build the threads up, then, use a triangular file to reshape/restore the thread. A bit fussy but I suspect it would work. An alternative would be to apply the epoxy, let it set up a bit, then screw on the nut to "chase" the threads, remove it and clean off the residue from the nut. Probably still need to do a little filing on the plastic thread. Cheers, GTF |
G T Foster |
Pete I may have an old body in the graveyard box! Let me look and ping me offline if you get no answer Dominic |
dominic clancy |
Pete, I have had the same experience after going to a thicker burl dash which allows the nut to catch fewer threads. Let us know if you come up with a fix that works. Good luck. Any other old switch bodies in graveyards? Thank you. Steve |
Steve Meline |
Peter, the Locktite thread restorer is not a thread locker. You put a release agent on the threads in the nut, you then fill the thread area with the compound and thread it in place, after it hardens the nut will turn right off and you have new threads. |
John H |
Pete - If Dominic doens't find an old body for you, I have one in my spares bin that I'll probably never need. You can have it for the shipping costs (or come to the Key West Regional later this month and I can hand it to you :) - Ken |
Ken Doris |
If anyone has any replacement contacts I would love to get a hold of a couple sets. I have two switches that have broken contacts. |
Steve Simmons |
Pete, Are all of the threads stripped or just the threads at the end nearest the body of the switch? I ask because if it is the later, maybe you can shim between the back of the dash and the switch and end up with good threads where you need them (the stripped threads would then be behind the dash in the shimmed area). Randy |
Randy Myers |
I've done this on a couple of different things an it should work for this. Put a couple of layers of paste wax on the threads of the nut, this will act as a release agent and then put a thin layer on JB Weld on the threads you want to restore. Screw the nut back on and then when it's cured about 90% hard remove the nut and let it finish curing. The main thing though is to be sure and have a good coat of wax on the nut or it'll be there forever. Good Luck John Nelson |
John Nelson |
John H & N They makes a lot of sense. Does the Loctite/JB Weld work on plastic? I was toying with the idea of epoxy on the plastic thread wrapping it with a layer of cling film and screwing the nut on. Randy Do you know I had thought about that idea and was wondering how much spare thread there was and if I had any washers that big... Back for some more MG bonding! Thanks all Pete |
Pete Tipping |
Pete, you would have to check the Loctite instructions about use on plastic, I don't have the bottle anymore. |
John H |
I haven't found anything that JB Weld doesn't bond with and I know it doesn't attack the Bakelite the housing is made of, just be sure that you clean the area to be repaired well with alcohol or solvent prior to putting on the JB Weld. Good Luck! John |
John Nelson |
John(s) Thanks for the thoughts here - trouble is I think the JB Weld stuff is stateside goo-goo. Both would cost... Ken Really nice thought mate, but I live in the original Hampshire, England... If you've got the fare I've got the time... Oh I'll need a map and a bit more info on the venue!!!! Randy Would you believe it I just found an old hose washer, a bit of a special machined out of solid PTFE and approx 2mm thick. It appears to have done the job. The ring type nut and end of the switch thread are now flush and the thread appears to be holding up without any thread tape this time. Looking good so let's see what happens on the road where all things come loose... For the record - while looking through the washers, I came across an old split fibre (MGA) Pressure Relief Valve washer which would fit a treat, so a couple of those could do the job very nicely. Also with the switch flats in a new position, it appears to be held really securely now in it's hole. This should ensure the switch can't rotate slightly as before, which caused the nut to keep coming loose. Cheers all. Pete |
Pete Tipping |
Pete If I understand your comment right about JB Weld, you can also get JB Weld in most motor shops this side of the pond. Steve Steve |
Steve Gyles |
Steve Simmons, I might be able to trade you some replacement contacts for a switch body. Are you going to be able to make it to Buttonwillow for the Brit Extavaganza, weekend of 4-29? Hope so, it would be nice to see you again. Steve |
Steve Meline |
Yes, I will be there! I'll probably be in the BGT because I'm picking up some suspension parts while I'm there. |
Steve Simmons |
I have the same problem. I like the idea of a threaded plastic ring bonded on, as remaking the treads seems like hard work. Should be easy to turn off all the existing threads and bond on a new ring, possibly made of something more durable also. I guess there would be a reasonable market for these too.. eBay and alike. anyone ever investigated having them made, or some sort of repair kit. Cheers <MARK> |
Mark Hester |
Thanks Steve Obviously I don't get out enough! Pete |
Pete Tipping |
What thread is it? |
R J Brown |
This thread was discussed between 05/04/2006 and 11/04/2006
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