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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Adjustable bolt? Help needed.
|I just can't think of the name for this, can anyone help please? It's basically a metal rod with a metal loop at either end. A sort of O--O effect. It's made in 2 parts, one half of the rod has an external thread, the other half internal so that you can screw them into each other and thus vary the distance between the 2 metal loops. The whole thing is probably about 15cm long and the wholes in the loops big enough to allow a decent bolt to fit through it.|
|That's the one! Many thanks.|
|The turnbuckles that I have used are 3 piece, two eye-bolts with the buckle in the middle. The one you describe would have to be adjusted before installation.|
|I agree with you Carl....Along with the centre adjusting piece, a true turnbuckle has one eye bolt with RH threads and one with LH threads and is adjustable "in situ".|
|or bottlescrew - for the Navymen.|
|Turnbuckles and bottlescrews are SLIGHTLY different; I believe that the former are rarely used at sea, whist the latter are used on land - sometimes in the most modren buildings.|
A turnbuckle has "open" sides along most of its length, whilst a bottle screw is basically solid, apart for the small round aperture into which you insert your marlin spike to turn it and adjust its length.
I well remember the turnbuckles under neat wooden trapdoors in the floor of my L2 Magna to adjust the cable brakes.
Here's a link to a site showing both turnbuckles and bottlescrews:-
|Go to any boat chandlers (parts shop) there you will fine a huge variety of turnbuckles and bottle screws.|
You're right about the 3 piece turnbuckle, that's the sort of thing I need.
As some of you may have guessed it's time to steady up the engine. The current steady bar (a bushed metal rod) goes from the front left cylinder head to the left inner wing. Unfortunately the inner left wing has started to tear and consequently the steady bar is no longer as effective. I've heard that it's possible to bolt a bracket to the top of the left chassis leg and use wire rope and a turnbuckle to connect it to the front left cylinder head. My only concern is if it comes undone. Either the wire and fixings go up through the bonnet or they tangle in the pulleys. Is it more practical to reinforce the inner left wing bracket and wire that to the head or use the chassis leg?
Unless your producing monster bhp I doubt you need the steady bar.
If the engine is still standard and it moves about then you need to check your engine mounts carefully.
I disagree, my (190hp) engine definitely benefited from a steady bar, I'd done in one engine mounting and heater hose before I realised the problem It's torque rather than HP which causes the engine to rock.
I fitted a Rover P5 or P6 steady bar to the (UK)nearside rear head, the bracket fits neatly on the bulkhead/wing, just in front of the washer (or servo) mounting, it's got rubber bushes at each end so it's insulated, and each end is threaded for adjustment.
Result , no more broken mountings or hoses, plus now the whole car rocks when you blip the engine at traffic lights !!
|Thanks Dave, do you use any mg specialists in the Hertfordshire area? Sadly my friend and MG guru, Trevor Taylor, passed away about 2 years ago and it's only recently that I've managed to rekindle my interest.|
|Michael, does the P6 bar fit just bolt into a spare hole in the back of the head? And do you just drill through the bulkhead and bolt from underneath or do you have to put captive nuts into the holes?|
|I used the steady bar that was under the 1800 MG gearbox. You might want to consider this if you still have yours.|
It bolts to the back of the starboard side head and across the back of the motor. The rubber bits locate on top of the passenger foot well near the bonnet hinge. For something for the rubber bits to attach to I made up a kind of bolted together sandwich that consisted of a piece of angle (with a square hole in it for the rubber), the top of the foot well and under that a piece of 5mm steel that I happened to have. The manufactured steady bar and bits looks neat, the length of the bar helps soak up vibation and the "sandwich" reinforced footwell is very strong as this and adjacent bodywork structure is complex and stiff.
|I made up a steady bar using a rubber bush engine end,and a rose joint chassis end,fixed to the drilled lug on the block N/S just under the head at the front,it steady for the engine but the engine mounts still sag after time!|
Yes there is are two spare bolts on the back of the head and block that the 'L' shaped plate bolts to, you should be able to feel them, and see them with a mirror! Drilling the plate is the tricky one, I made a cardboard template to drill from, On the bulkhead I didn't use captives, the bolts have to come into the footwell so it's upside down on your back stuff with your feet in the air ( Sometime I wonder what the neighbours think I'm up to !).
I'll try to get a couple of pics. if I can.....they're always worth a thousand words.
|PS although I think Rover fitted it to the front of the engine, I think it's more logical to tie it at the rear ( there is much more metal there).|
|Mine is fitted to front (by PO). You can just make it out in these pics :-|
|j w mcglynn|
I can't disagree with your experience, but with an engine giving 250 lbs/ft on one RV8 type and one standard front mount and the SD1 gearbox on standard mounts I've not found a steady bar necessary after 2,000+ mile of racing.
For general parts I've happily used B&G and MG Motorsport.
|My steady is rose jointed.|
|I used a pair of Heim joints one left thread, one right thread, with an adjustment bar in between and a locknut. I made a small angled bracket mount which bolts atop the shelf next to the brake box.|
Try Doug Smith at Bovingdon, Hertfordshire. He's a very knowledgeable guy.
That's neat, similar to my set-up with the P5/P6 bar, but a tidier solution !
This thread was discussed between 20/05/2004 and 27/05/2004
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