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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Brake pedal box
|I am looking to fit a 2 pedal/3 master cyl bias pedal box to my V8 conversion - does anybody have any experience of doing this? if so which pedal box is best to use and how much modification is required. I have looked at the Wilwood one/AP racing and some bulkhead modification would be required.|
If anyone has done this kind of mod are the brakes better?
I have the John Hoyle IRS kit so have discs front and rear.
|I have made my own pedal box and fitted a balance bar which is adjustable from the dash.|
Front brakes are wilwood superlite 4 pots with 38mm pistons and a .65 master and rear are Ford cosworth, cant remember the piston size but use a .75 master.
I also have a hydraulic handbrake which uses a .75 master.
For road use I really wouldnt bother but if you intend on doing track days/sprints then basically you wont get better brakes.
One of the main advantages Ive found is the pedal feel is superb and with complete front/rear adjustability.
|I seem to remember one of the cars shown on the British V8 web site had a modified pedal box with dual cylinders. Don't remember which car though. http://www.britishv8.org/Photos-MG-Conversions.htm|
That would be Jim Blackwood's beast...
Incidentally, there will be new articles on Jim's and Will's cars in the next issue of the newsletter. We've already got twelve new How-It-Was-Done articles coming along, and a half dozen new feature articles... and of course we're looking for even more!
|Simon, I managed to make up a balance assembly which does not in any way change the original pedal positions or attachments, except that a few more mounting holes are used. The brake pedal was modified by bending the upper arm in a sort of "Z" fashion and attaching the balance tube by welding. Then the pivots and upper arms of two pedals were cut off and mounted on the common shaft (which was extended) by placing one where the spacer tube was between the clutch and brake, and placing the other outboard of the brake. Approximately half of another mounting bracket was welded to the original to support the extended shaft and to provide a mount for the extra master cylinder. Each of these arms was fitted with a threaded pivot assembly (to prevent binding) with 1/2" x 13tpi internal threads. A hardened 1/2" x 13tpi x 6" long square headed jackscrew was fitted and the spherical pivot bearing positioned midway and secured by pressing it over a split nut which had the OD turned down to provide an interference fit and locked in place with Loctite green. Two covers and some other tin bits were spliced together to close it up and provide an attachment for a rubber MG shifter boot for the adjustment cable. The cable itself was a 1/4" flex cable housed within a pvc tube, both of which were anchored at the dashboard by a large walnut knob assembly. The tube, secured in the boot opening was free floating at that end and the cable was removably secured to the jackscrew head by pinning the square drive of a 9/16" socket to the jackscrew. You'll have to forgive me, I've forgotten exactly the piece used to couple the square of the flex shaft to the socket but it seems it may have been a 1/4" to 1/2" socket adapter, drilling a hole for the detent ball to engage for a positive engagement and easy removal. That would have been secured to the square at the end of the flex shaft by set-screws, loctite, or both I believe. At any rate it was something on that order. Standard small reservoir girling M/C's were used, but as mounting flange rotation angles vary by application getting them all to stand perfectly straight up is a bit tricky, as is bolting them in. Different bore diameters are available to help with centering the balance. I find rivet-nuts to be very useful in creating the additional attachment points needed for the bracket and cover.|
thanks for the responses - do Jim or Mark have any close up pictures of your systems to give me a guide
Also Mark - what pads are you using - I sprint and hillclimb the car?
|Scroll down on the link that Graham posted.|
|I don't know how much room you have with the dual line MC. I have a dual line MC with Balance bar in the Pantera I am restoring. It is a very very good set up. |
In my conversion I put my MC on the firewall. I actually atatched it to the pedal on the other side of the pivot point same distance:
The Clutch MC is a Willwood too and the tank would not fit on top. I spun a piece of aluminum on the lath for the neck and TIG welded up an aluminum reservoir tank to fit under the hood:
Im using yellow stuff at the rear and wilwood poly 'E' up front.
Will take some pics this weekend and email them.
This thread was discussed between 15/02/2007 and 16/02/2007
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