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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Carb Experience (plus column comments)

I have done similar to Richard with my steering column. Although I used a rubber bumper joint at the top and for the bottom I got a D shaped joint with a shaft attached from a Triumph 2000. I had my pinion shaft shortened, turned down and splined to suit the Triumph joint.

The Triumph joints are excellent, they are very small and available cheaply in wreckers yards. Some of the small Japanese cars such as Daihatsu also have excellent joints.

At the top I ended up getting a rubber bumper steering column and I have used a rubber bumper firewall mount. You can buy the whole RHS or LHS firewall panel for ~25 pounds and use what you want. I unpicked the spot welds just to get the 'cone' out and I have welded this into my chrome bumper firewall. It looks great.

I am sure that I will get some comments about the sacreligious aspect of using Triumph parts in a MG. My answer is it works, it was cheap and if you don't tell, I won't either.

Oh and by the way, I am planning to use a Holley on an Edelbrock Performer manifold and I have the hook type engine mounts from Dave Vale (V8 Conversion Centre). I would like to avoid a bonnet bulge, but I don't think that I can. They say that with the Offenhauser manifolds you can just fit. The other thing to do is use a RV8 bonnet, although these are expensive ~250 pounds.



Nice to have a response to one of my comments. I have made several in the past to no avail. I, who have a TR6, which is great fun, would never object to the use of Truimph parts. I have used Miata parts to improve what MG would have done if they had had the money and support from the owners of MG, a very short sighted bunch or they would never have thrown away the US market.
Perhaps I did buy the motor mounts from David Vale, I don't remember now. Have you thought of a bulge from one of the many suppliers of parts for the replicar Cobras? I plan to order one to see if it will fit. On the Cobra it was aluminum and pop rivited to the existing hood. Just an idea.
Richard Lebanon IN

I have exactly your set up with a K&N low rider filter
housing and a, I suppose 2 1/2 inch thick filter. The
bonnet cross member had to be cut away, but no bulge in
the bonnet.
You can also adjust the height of the engine by shaving
the block so that the round rubber engine mounts will fit
further down into the slotted chassis mounts. Just make sure the
sump still clears the x-member, the crankshaft pulley doesnt
foul the a/r bar and the driveline still lines up.
I of course recommend bonnet vents and RV8 manifolds.
BobP to David

To BobP, could you explain more specifically what you mean by "shaving the block" to lower the engine. I think I know what you mean.
This will allow the engine to sit lower in the frame mounts. Do you remove material from the block itself therefore creating a narrower
block? Will this process allow the fitment of the Edelbrock intake without bonnet bulge? I want to switch from Offy to Edelbrock.

Martyn Harvey

I literaly filed the block itself with a rotary rasp as I
was having difficulty getting the engine mount threaded studs into
the chassis mounts. As to what will fit and what wont, I repeat
I have an Edelbrock/600 cfm double pumper Holley and K&N lowrider
filter mount with 2 1/2 element in my 76 factory BGTV8 without
modification to the block but the centre bonnet strengthening
brace cut away to clear.
I hope this helps.
BobP to Martyn

This thread was discussed between 25/09/1999 and 27/09/1999

MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical index

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