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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Did it!! ... and a simple 'cheat'.
|OK, I did it ... I stuffed a Rover 3.9 in a chrome bumper B. So this is my first posting here. Wow are those clearances TIGHT. Like, down to the millimeter, if like me you are simply unwilling to modify the bonnet but also unwilling to either (i) use an intermediate steering shaft or (ii) cut holes for RV8 headers. You have to measure everthing 147 times. |
The one last-minute "cheat" I had to do was with the air cleaner: I had the intake manifold milled at a slight angle so that the plane of the air cleaner is the same as the slope of the bonnet at that point. But the smallest 14" K&N filter (2-3/8" high) was SLIGHTly too high, sitting atop an Edelbrock carb. Here's a heck of a good cheat: K&N makes a 13.5" round by 2" high air filter. You really don't notice the 1/4" gap all around. You have to use an Edelbrock chrome air cleaner lid, which is angled slightly downward (there are others of identical configuration), and of course the deepest drop base you can get your greasy paws on. And that will save you 3/8", which is everthing!!! The final clearance to the hood on my car is 5 freaking mm!!!! If you are a glutton for punishment and convert a CB car, for heaven's sake use an engine steady bar.
But the motor runs ... will see if the car achieves forward motion later this week. It just looks the same as any old dark green MGB ... well, slightly fatter tires on 15" rims. I had put on a S/T air dam and I pulled it back off because it was too boy-racerish. I know you guys love them. I may take it down to Florida with you guys in March, to see if I can keep up.
|I would like all the info and pictures you care to share on the conversion.What did you do about steering?Thanks for any and all info........Greg|
|Bill, send me am email with whatever pictures you have. I am have a "readers rides section on my website where I show peoples MGBV8's. Then people can view it from my site and you will not have to email it out a million times...|
I Have the same mindset as you, as few mods as possible. No fender holes and no bonnet bulge are my 2 biggest points..
|Ignore the email in my listing, use this one. For some reason it will not update, even though I changed it a month ago when I changed providers..|
Great job. Yes, please share any and all information you are willing to, especially regarding steering and headers.
|The details in your 'tag' line when you post i.e. name or handle, option email, option web site address is simply a piece of text and nothing to do with the account you are accessing the BBS from. If you are registered as a member and set up your 'tag' line some time ago and they are now incorrect, you can change them by clicking the 'Customise' option available on various screens on the BBS and changing it manually.|
|The details in your 'tag' line when you post i.e. name or handle, optional email, optional web site address is simply a piece of text and nothing to do with the account you are accessing the BBS from. If you are registered as a member and set up your 'tag' line some time ago and they are now incorrect, you can change them by clicking the 'Customise' option available on various screens on the BBS and changing it manually.|
|Thanks PAUL!! As usual you have all the answers..|
|Greg, steering: |
CB crossmember, _unmodified_; RB 3.0 turn steering rack & pinion, unmodified except had to slightly angle-shim it where it bolts to the x-member; regular CB steering column w/u-joint slipped up the column a bit and pinned (rather than splined) into place. The u-joint c-l is about in the plane of the firewall. Steering cone slightly modded, and column now pokes out into the engine bay a bit lower than on a regular CB MG. Heavy reinforcing on passenger side of steering cone, just to keep everything firmly in place. Good clearance U-joint to portside aft header bolts -- about 1/4+". Pinion goes straight through the forward portside engine mount. Normal engine position (I don't like the so-called "A/C" engine position -- it looks funny to me, plus the shifter is too far back -- does give you a tad more hood clearance though). Engine-driven fan. Alt on upper starboard side of motor -- this was a real hood clearance headache in and of itself. Ceramic-ed headers, single exhaust pipe. Tr8 trans. C rear, plastic leafs. Minilite wheels. Manual brakes with drilled rotors, regular 2-pot calipers, and re-routed pipes (to get 'em outta that hot engine bay as quickly as possible).
This whole setup was copied from several cars I saw and took photos of at a couple of shows, plus talked to the builders. I was somewhat surprised to find that several things that are claimed to be impossible in "How to Convert Your MGB to V-8 Power" were, indeed, quite doable. All in, I don't think that book is quite A+. Or at least it really needs updating.
I had the motor mounts made up at a local welding shop; wasn't able to find any I was in love with (... and I looked at everything out there, I bet I paid $75 in return postage on engine mounts alone). Steady bars on front of motor.
All in, a VERY plainclothes car. Will it get too hot? Will it drive halfway decently? I really don't know! Keep ya posted.
Will try to send you guys pictures one of these days.
Thanks for the reply i would appreciate any info onyour moteor mounts did you use the stock chrome bumper mounting points or change to rubber bumper mounts?If chrome bumper please give me details.Thanks again........Greg
Did you get rid of the bonnet crossmember? Are your fabricated metal engine mounts the same thickness or are they thicker on the side of the steering shaft for better clearance? TIA
I didn't have to touch the bonnet crossmember. The bonnet is the same as the day the car was born, except that I cut a small hole in the sound insulation above the center of the air cleaner, "just in case". It's close, though ... I used a bit of my son's Play-Doh and confirmed the front of the air cleaner passes underneath that x-member by only about 7mm. (Remember, I've got the carb/air cleaner rocked forward a few degrees relative to the block; that's why it clears.) The engine mounts are the same thickness on both sides; never really thought of making 'em different, that's probably a good idea. Greg, stock CB mount positions.
You guys would not be blown away, it is not a very high-tech car. But I do believe it is properly set up. Once everything is correctly sized, everything kind of falls into place. I like the understated look of a stock-appearing B. I enjoy opening the hood and seeing that big old honking chrome air cleaner; the EFI setups just aren't as cool looking, no way! It's like the difference between opening a brand new vinyl LP vs. a CD -- CDs have better performance but so much less soul. More later.
I am very with you on the classic MGB look, but seeing a beutifull engine when you open the hood. I am hoping and planning to do the same with my 302 project.
I just bought some Cobra headers and from my rough eye-balling, I should be able to use them and not cut the fenders.
Get me those pictures :-) I will use some of my webspace and give you a page all to yourself for talking about your car and showing pictures..
|Larry let me know if the cobra headers work and if any mods are needed.I've been following your build and am interested in your finds.I've got a couple 215's but you can never have too much information...Greg|
|Yeah right now (until I get the headers in hand) I am just guessing. I have the engine sitting in the car on the x-member now, and there looks to be room..|
go to the timeline section..
This thread was discussed between 12/02/2001 and 14/02/2001
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