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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - edelbrock manifold to hood
| I had one other question I thought was worthy of its own thread, that is will I experience hood clearance promblems(on my chrome bumper)with the edelbrock performer?|
I do not like the offenhauser/JFR dual port because of its limitations on torque where I believe I need it(mid and top end).
|Seems I may have found the answer online...|
Excerpt:"My engine is fitted with an Edlebrock Performer inlet manifold which is relatively tall. I don't want to make any external changes to my MGB (other than the twin exhaust pipes) and so needed to find a way to avoid a bonnet bulge. I could have used the lower Offenhauser manifold, but this is less good for performance. My solution was to lower the engine. This also has the advantage of slightly lowering the centre of gravity and hence improving road holding".
...This leads me to to question, would the other standard single plane offenhauser manifold work? (not the dual port).
Don't dismiss using the stock BOP 4bbl intake manifold which is about 5/8" lower than the Edelbrock profile and has good low to middle end performance - most V8 converters tend toward this option.
This is the intake I'm presently using and everything fits under the stock hood without any chassis mods.
| I thank you for that Graham. I had wondered about that, and with what you told me, in mildly stock configuration it seems the most desirable route.|
However, after rebuilding with higher compression ratio (10.5:1)-?, and a mid to top end emphasis with the cam the manifold would really need to match.
Seems a cobra style hood scoop may be in the future.
Thank you again, I do value that input.
|Have you thought about a remote air cleaner? Put the carb in a bonnet and run a tube out to fender mount flat panel air filter box robbed of any number of production cars? |
|I'm using the Edelbrock on my Rover and had the same concerns about hood clearance. I decided to go the scoop route for two reasons; 1) to add some clearance and 2) to provide increased airflow to aid in cooling and a cold-air intake.|
I used a scoop made by "Lund" (they do have a web-site). It's made of ABS plastic, very strong and looks like the '67 GTO (dual inlets). Normally it's just stuck onto the hood for that "Speed Racer" look but I cut out the inlets with a Dremel tool and had my Body Man blend it into the hood after a hole cut with his plasma cutter. Now that the hood has some paint on it, the scoop looks great. You can't tell where the plastic ends and the metal begins.
Jegawatt- I can send you a picture if you like.
Dan- funny you should mention the remote air cleaner. I haven't got the engine back in the car yet but if I still have clearance issues, I thought of doing just this. I e-mailed K&N to see what they have (lots of "snorkel-type" intakes but made for FI engines) and they said let them know what dimensions I have and they could make something up. We didn't get into prices yet but I've got a feeling it won't be cheap! But if it works, it'll be worth it.
| I prefer the scoop over those remote systems, although they certainly have their place.|
Here is an image of an all alluminum one...
and this view...
|You should be able to get it to clear with the Edelbrock Performer. I had a chrome bumper car with a Carter and a 2" air cleaner; motor in stock (i.e., "non-A/C") location; CB crossmember; alloy bonnet (reputed to be a bit flatter than the later steel ones); Edelbrock intake and it all fit, albeit without any room to spare. Use a torque strap on the motor so that it doesn't move around, or it'll probably bonk the underside of the hood. You need to get fairly thin engine mounts. But there's no need for any particular histrionics -- it really does all fit without too much fuss and you don't have to do wierd stuff like re-bend the sway bar. Obviously get the lowest possible dropped base for your air cleaner: you'll need to whale on it with a BFH or whatever to make a recess for the carb's choke, but other than that you should be OK. The remote air cleaner idea doesn't really do anything to solve the height problem -- you still have to get the air to the top of the carb.* (The Edelbrock is, I believe, exactly 5/8" higher than the stock 215 manifold. That will seem like a mile, but anyhow have faith: it'll work.)|
*Of course, you -could- try something totally insane like they used to do on E-types when retrofitting 'em with SBCs and 4-bbl carbs. E.g., the John's Conversions kit actually mounted the whole frikkin' -carb- to the side of the motor, and there was a long fat tube from the bottom of the carb to the top of the manifold. I kind of marvel that the air/fuel emulsion would stay in good shape all the way up that tube, but apparently it was a pretty bombproof setup even though it looked wierd as hell.
Just what I wanted to hear, but in reference to the motor mounts what do you mean by "thin engine mounts"-?
Are you referring to the block mounts?--the chassis mounts?--or the rubber buffer mounts?
I have seen the rubber pair offered with one thinner than the other in order to tilt the motor away from the steering shaft.
If you can provide links that would be appreciated.
Also, why did the individual in one of my prvious posts (above) have a conflict with his edelbrock to hood? He went to the extreme of lowering his motor further..I provided a link.
| After reevaluating, I have decided to just go with the cobra style scoop if indeed it turns out that (for some reason)their is no tolerance there.|
I am certainly not going through the effort of lowering the engine further.
There is of course the benefit of the cold charge of air introduced to both the carb and engine bay at speed..as well as the escapement of heat at idle.
...this should help circulation under there.
This thread was discussed between 03/02/2004 and 06/02/2004
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