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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Fan query
Guys, I have a Buick 215 with hugger headers and a fan attached to the motor. I want to replace the fan with an electric version that will automatically turn on.
Will the standard twin pusher MGB fans put out enough air to cool the radiator? I thought about putting these guys back in front of the radiator and adding an electric slim line puller. My radiator is one from D & D, actually the 2nd because of a raccoon incident. I just don't want to ever take the chance of driving the Dragon's Tail and get behind a Travel Trailer going 5 miles an hour or get stuck in some of Indiana's finest road contruction locations. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Hope to see you all in Terre Haute in June.
British V8 Co-Host
Some people seen to get by fine with just the two stock fans, but I donít, then again I live next door to Hell. I found the stock fans to push barely a whisp of air through the radiator while blowing a huge amount outwards. Building shrouds around the stock fans improved the ratio, but didnít really solve the problem. I currently have a 14Ē self-shrouded pusher fan mounted to the radiator and that works well, but canít keep up with prolonged idling or days over 110 degrees. My next plan is to move the radiator forward enough to put the fan behind the radiator and use a shroud that goes to the four corners of the radiator to avoid hot recycling. The position of the motor to the radiator makes it seem impossible to use a water pump mounted fan.
Check these guys out
I got a 16" fan from them 4 years ago 3000CFM for about 100.00. They say these fans are used by NASCAR.
It has worked great for me.
The big thing is to have enough ventilation.
What really solved my heating issue's was installing louvers high up on the inner fender which allow the heat to escape.
|I'm running two stock MGB electric fans on my V8. So far they seem to do a good job of cooling but it's been relatively cool on the West Coast so far.|
I've got RV8 headers, a functional hood scoop and a custom, 4-core rad, 20" tall and stock width.
I've got them set up to come on just above the "N" but it's controllable with a thermo-switch.
|As has been said previously, one important consideration when using stock fans is to have a very good earth.|
My original fans work perfectly and we experience real heat here.
Ian is spot on about earthing - also the blades need to be very close to the rad core.
The advantage of the twin pushers is if you lose one - the other will usually get you home.
The original V8 notes recommended a manual over-ride switch and most of us have a switch on the dash to supplement the auto.
No it's not as constantly hot as Arizona but the Autobahn down south are quite warm and they do get clogged too.
|Ian and Roger,|
Where do I improve ground the twin pusher fans?
I just connected the earth wire to the body right next to the fan rather than using the original multiplug which earths further away. It is also important that the wire is in good condition and the bigger the better (within reason).
As RMW suggests I also have an over ride switch and the blades are close to the radiator core.
I had some luck recently and bought 2 new original V8 fan motors on Ebay in Australia for a very reasonable price. I have reconditioned mine but they are getting harder to find. However there are alternatives.
|Dave, I've had great results on my V6 midget (Ok, only a Midget with a 2.8, but a tight fit in the compartment) using a 14" pusher fan from a BMW. I used a Camaro temp switch mounted in the right cylinder head to control the fan relay. No cooling problems here in KC even on 100+ degree days in traffic. I did add a manual cutoff switch in line with the temp switch so that I could shut the fan off when starting the car when it was hot. Helps make a little more voltage available to the starter.|
|You could improve cooling a great deal by cutting a couple of holes where the RV8 style exhausts exit. Follow the same pattern and if you ever do get RV8 exhausts you're ready to go. It's a 'legitimate' hole. In the mean time you get a huge improvement in air flow and your vents are out of sight and very efficiently placed. The wheel arches are a low pressure area and the air just sucks through there. You never will get splashing back from this region because of the air flow. |
If I were doing it again I would use a hacksaw blade,from underneath.
I have found a very nice upgrade for the factoy OTTER switch at http://www.coolcatcorp.com/ it is a brass plate that takes a modern fan switch and for less than the price of the otter, mounts just like the otter and the switch is replacable and even comes with a gasket.
They are also working on upgraded fan motors with better blades that mount in the factory brackets and a custom Aluminum radiator with a inproved filler that should help "get the air out "some time LATER this year. I will keep you updated.
If you have a Jag E-Type they have lots of other goodies.
This thread was discussed between 14/04/2005 and 22/04/2005
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