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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Modding a rear end

This may not be the best place to put this thread, but I figured it fit best here. I am looking to source a Ford rear end for use with the V8 swap I am assembling, but want to know more information about needing to resize the rear end to fit. Is it possible to grab a rear end from a Mustang (one that had a 302/T5 setup) and just shorten the rear axle? Any help and info is greatly appreciated.
D. T. Barnes

That's basically what I did... I bought a junkyard axle from a '92 Mustang 5.0, and cut off all the old mounting features. (I trimmed down some of the reinforcements in the iron casting too, to reduce weight.) I bought narrower axle shafts from Moser ( ), and had a local hot-rod shop (which already had the appropriate jigs) cut down and reweld the housing. I also had them weld on new spring perches.

Curtis - right on, sounds like what I was thinking (minus the rework on the housing). What needs to be done to the housing, and is it because of clearance/fitting problems? I was under my GT over the weekend tweaking the fuel pump and there was a ton of space (so it seemed) under there, but then again I am not too familiar with Mustang rears, so I have no size to gauge off of. Thanks for the info.
D. T. Barnes

Okay, so I have done some research and I am thinking about going with an 8.8 Ford rear end and Moser 28 spline 5 lug rear axles (so I can fit disk brakes, but would they really be necessary for a V8 conversion?). What rear end gear ratio did you end up choosing for your car? Because I am looking at going to bigger disks up front, but most of those come with a 5 lug conversion...I could go with larger front brakes made as a bolt on to the stock front mounts and run 16in Panasport style rims...
D. T. Barnes

Okay, so if you run the Mustang rear end, what did you do to the front to have similar lug patterns? Did you modify to a 5 lug setup?
D. T. Barnes

Well, if you haven't eyeballed a Mustang axle yet, have a look at this snapshot: . It may fit into an MG without removing any iron from that casting... but there's more iron there than an MGB needs (and it's unsprung weight.) I used a hacksaw and side-grinder and started by chopping-off Mustang-specific mounting flanges (e.g. the two big ears on top and the two smaller flanges next to the input shaft.)

I picked an axle with 3.27 gear... which I like a lot.

Re: lug spacing, I don't know if I'd do the same now, but I had Moser make the axles with MGB's 4-lug pattern. I'm still using Mustang drum brakes. There wasn't so much information available about disc brake conversions back in the day, plus I was on a very tight budget. IMHO, MGB's stop pretty well with their original brakes, assuming you have the right pads and tires... but vented fronts and rear-discs would be sexy.

One of the hassles of fitting a Mustang axle is getting the parking brake to function well. Improving mine is one thing I keep putting off. (I need to extend the lever inside the tunnel.)

This is what I REALLY covet (for easily tunable bias): This is the work of Michel in Provance, who has the sexiest brakes I've seen. Maybe he'll jump in here and tell us a little more about them.

This is pretty cute too, although he's obviously not using a Ford axle: (rear brakes) . Just to be complete, I'll include this link too: (front brakes) .) Again, they're Michel's. I really like his photos.

Right on, I dig those pictures, and I have seen a Mustang rear end before, just having trouble visualizing the fit into an MG, but that picture is perfect, everyone I have seen has been dirty and rusted, hahahaha.

Anyways, thanks for the info, I think I am going to stick with MG brakes, upgrade the front rotors to a larger set of brakes (wilwoon 11.75" slotted) and just get some good rear brake pads. I am also thinking about staying with the stock rear end for right now (i.e. get the car on the road and see how I like it). And take my time hunting for a good rear end and all that jaz. Your thoughts on that?

The Mustang rear brake drums fit on the MG rear lug pattern?
D. T. Barnes

Seems like you & I are looking at similar things DT... I too have been researching rear ends... based on input I have, there are a few viable choices out there... can't say which is best -- there are trade offs any way you go but concensus seems to be either:

- narrowed Ford 8" with Ford 9" ends -- lightest of the choices, most folks think its plenty strong, 9" ends gives you the same bolt on brake choices, and relatively cheap & easy to find. Down sides are some folks don't think it's strong enough & there are fewer gear ratios seemingly available.

- narrowed Ford 8.8" -- stronger than 8" (although I had one guy tell me the axles are the same size as the 8" -- to be verified), plenty of gear ratios & posi's available, easily sourced, newer so may be more after market choices for longer.

Cost is about the same either way.

- stock MG -- strong enough if you don't abuse it. definitely the least expensive answer. Posi is available, but few gear ratio choices.

A couple of other things to keep in mind...
1. Pinion Angle... i got some help on this a few weeks ago... needs to be equal & opposite to the angle of your motor -- e.g., if your motor tilts down by 5 degrees, your rear end needs to tilt up by 5 degrees. Stock MG is approx 5 degrees. Your 302 may be different depending on how you mount it. Somewhere between 3 & 5 seems to be what you're after for both based on what folks have been telling me.

2. Rear end gear ratio -- optimal ratio depends on a couple of factors including, first, your T-5's gear ratios. Not all T5's are the same... some have a 3.53 1st gear, some a 2.95 1st gear. Some have a .68 overdrive & others a .63... I found a couple of web sites that tell which T5s have what based on the tranny tag number. Armed with that, you can figure out the 2nd item: RPM... the RPM at a cruising speed of, say 70mph with different rear end ratios. Similarly, you can then also estimate the speed you'll top out at in each gear if you assume a shift point of x,000 RPM to be sure you will have a good range in each gear...

I haven't made my rear end decisions yet, but i'm getting closer.

Curtis & others... any of you know the weight difference between the 8" & the 8.8"?

Curtis, how much weight do you think you took off by taking off the ears & the flanges?

All: With respect to lug patterns -- I was planning to use the ford 5x4.5 mustang lug pattern, but when i started looking for wheels, i didn't see anything with a Panasport look (the look i'm after)... for those of you using Panasport style wheels, what brand, size, & lug pattern are you using?

I drove around with the MGB axle for a couple thousand miles... but the stock ratio drove me nuts.

To use old Ford drums with the new Moser axles, I simply drilled a second hole pattern. It's short work on a drill press. You don't need great accuracy because the lugs don't actually align the drums. They're aligned by their center hole. (The lugs just keep the drums/wheels from rotating on the axle, and clamp everything together.)

I wish I'd weighed all that stuff...

Rob, when you say "Panasport", you mean 8-spokes don't you? The classic brand for those was "Minilite" - and I see the originals are back in production (except in aluminum instead of magnesium.) I'm still using old "Minotaur" wheels, which are/were a U.K. made wheel from Moss (14x5.5, 13.6lbs/each).


The Panasport is an aluminum replica of the Minilites, offered by Victoria British if I remember right, and they come in much wider and larger options (up to a 16x7 I think).

Thanks for all the great info.

Rob - we will have to keep in touch as we work through this, its nice to have someone doing something similar at the same time. Feel free to email me anytime.
D. T. Barnes

Try these guys for panasport type wheels
Tony Bates

I can share my knowledge with those that are contemplating what to do for an emergency brake hookup using the Ford 8.8 with disc brakes.
The standard Ford emergency brake cables come in from the front of the disc brake assemblies and operate a cam that essentially pushes on the hydraulic piston. By welding a small extension to these cams (with a small hole drilled in the end to accept the cable clevis), allows the brake cable to come in from the side (similar to the standard MGB). Add a revised "swingletree" (that pivoting contraption that attaches to the rear diff bolts), shorten the standard MGB emergency brake cable by about 2" per side and you have an excellent e-brake setup that functions just like the standard MG system.
For those attending the Tennessee meet this June you are welcome to pore over my installation.
Graham Creswick

Excellent information.
Tony - Thanks for the link.

Graham - Great idea, my ebrake doesnt even work on the MG as it sits now, so it would be great to have a working one, hahahaha.
D. T. Barnes

Tony - just finished going through the website and looking at the fit guide provided. I am wondering now if a 15x7 would fit under the stock well (no flares) and not stick out or cause rubbing on bumps or turning. I am sure this probably depends on the offset of the rim and the profile of the tire selected, as much as it does the rim, but can anyone chime in with some more info? Thanks all.
D. T. Barnes

Panasport 15x7 wheels (w/22 to 25mm offset)will clear.....however the tires will probably not.
I have this setup on my car with 225-50/15 tires and with the stock rear fender lips essentially removed and I just get by with no interference (with normal to semi-spirited driving).
One of the problems is the well-documented MGB issue of the axle location biased towards the left side of the vehicle - If you have noticed this condition, I recommend welding the spring perches biased 3/16" to the left (from normal MG axle location) to compensate. This definitely helps with the job of centering and cramming 15x7 rims and wide rubber into the wheelwells. You'll also find that messaging the bump stop sheetmetal might be necessary.

Graham Creswick

I run 15x7 Pansport wheels with 205/50/15 Yokohama tires. You can see the tires and wheels at if you wish.I went to great lengths to center each wheel in the wheel well when I shortened(had it done) and installed my Ford 8.8 rear axle with a panhard rod. I don't get any noticable tire rubbing on the fender. However, I have noticed some small rub marks above the bump stop that Graham mentioned. I have rear disk brakes with operational E-brake. Setup is similar to what Graham mentioned. Let me know and I can send a picture of the e-brake setup.

Rick Meek

What is the width, if you don't mind, axle flange-to-flange?
Wayne Pearson

I might have saved that info. I'll look for it. I'm pretty sure it came out to be the exact width of the MG axle. The wheels have the same offset as the MG. (I won't even go into the mistake I made on this first). By the way I had the hubs redrilled to the 4 bolt pattern.
Rick Meek

The steel wheel MGB axle is 52" the wire wheel axle is 50"
I use the Ford 7.5 and 8.8 and Chevy Camaro rear ends from 98 and up for engine swaps.
We have the machine shop weld 9" Ford ends this eliminates the "C" clips on the axle and gives you versatility on different brake kits from different manufactures, Moser makes the axles to fit this set up. The 9" is the most popular rear end but it's a bit big and heavy for the B. The GM rear end is plenty strong for the B and a Ford 5.0 and are cheaper and than the 8.8 or 7.5 With the 9" Ford ends welded then the 8,8 Ford type rear brakes can be use plus eliminates the "C" clips making it safer. The 8 is lighter same as the GM The E brake can be bought from Lockard they have a kit for the 8" ford and 8.8 ford which uses an internal brake shoe for e-brake.
Graham solve the e-brake very nicely, great way to accomplish that task.

Gear ratio should match the crusing rpm's of the engine cam in 4 gear. To find the correct gear ratio you first must know the cams crusing speed.
Suppose it's 2500 or 3000 rpm (must common)
The formula is:

Gear ratio= rpm x tire dia DIVIDED by mph (70 mph is a good #)x 336
This will give you the final ratio you need.

Should be able to shift from 5 to 4 right into the engine rpm peak torque.
Bill Guzman


I'm not comprehending how to apply your formula. If I'm understanding correctly, it seems you're suggesting tranny ratios should be disregarded when selecting axle ratio, no? (I don't see tranny ratios mentioned explicitly in your post.) My tire OD is 22.5". If I multiply by 2500, and divide the product by the 70 times 336, it looks like you'd recommend a 2.39:1 axle ratio. Even with a hotter cam, I'm still way under 3:1... I can get numbers that look more realistic if I put in someone else's larger tire diameter... but now I don't trust the equation. What am I doing wrong?




I have an Excel spread sheet that calculates all the variables for you, in all gears, with various axle ratios and tire sizes. You can find it at or download it direct at
Dan Masters


That's a really nice spreadsheet you've got there! For grins, I typed in a bunch of different tire/wheel sizes and gear ratios, and it was quite an eye opener. No wonder the old MGB axle ratio (3.909) didn't work... even the MGC ratio (was it 3.07?) doesn't go far enough.

I bet we could all be getting better fuel economy too.


p.s. And you answered part of my question to Bill... apparently since 4th is typically 1:1, it doesn't pay to mention it.

Curtis, that formula is to find the final ratio only, 4 gear is 1:1 That formula is only for the final gear ratio.
If you are building a custom trans then you would need to figure every gear ratio. If you are using the Ford T5 3:35 First 1:93 second 1,29 third 1.1 fourth and .068 5th on some and .085 on others.
You only figure your final drive on 4th gear which is 1:1
Bill Guzman

BTW Curtis, that is the only formula to figure your final ratio. Every camshaft has a data sheet that gives you the minimum and max rpm and crusing rpm.
most common #'s are 2000 for the min. 5800 for the max with a crusing rpm of 2500 to 3000 rpm these # tells you were the cam starts it's torque.
If you install a gear ratio that is to high (lower #) the engine will feel sluguish while accelerating in 4th gear. the most common gear ratio for the 5.0 with a stock cam is 3.0 to 3.27 for normal street driving with 25 dia or taller tires.
For high performance (drag) a 3.73 to 4.10 for road racing a 3.45 to 3.73 depending on the track, tire and trans gear ratios. etc.
If the formula gives you a ratio of 2.78 or 2.90's this is where the engine performs best in normal driving with the dia tire that is chosen for the vehicle. These gear ratios are no bad for light car such as the B with small dia tires.
If you install an agressive cam then the final gear should be lower (higher #) to match the rpm of the cam. The tire dia plays a big factor on tuning your final gear ratio. With a small dia tire the gear ratio will be higher (270's etc.) and the reverse effect with taller tires.
The reason the B had 3.90 si due to the lack of power to move the vehicle from start and it was compensated with the trans gear ratios, but 4th gear was 1:1 and it was right a the engine power output 3000 rpm Must of your samller engines use a low rear end gear ratio.
Bill Guzman

I have an Excel spreadsheet calculator that is a take-off of Dan's spreadsheet, but seems that I downloaded it from Larry Embrey. Regardless, if someone wishes to post it I'll send it to you. It allows you to compare side-by-side 5 different combinations of tires, gears, trans ratios, speedometer gears, etc.

Wayne Pearson

Excellent information posted, that spreadsheet is perfect.

My only question is, Bill, your recommending the Ford 8" rear instead of the 8.8, for the reasons you listed in your post? I am being dense this morning and couldn't grasp whether you were recommending the 8" Ford or the GM equivalent (the S10 rear right?) rear end? What years for the S10 provide the GM setup, if the S10 would be the correct donor car?
D. T. Barnes


The spread sheet on Larry's site was taken, with my permission, from my web site. I'd like to get a copy of your spread sheet, if I may. Thanks.
Dan Masters

Okay, new question slightly off the current line of discussion. I am looking around and trying to figure out what my options are when it comes to wheels with a Ford rear end (8.8" probably). I would like to keep the stock 4 bolt pattern and run a set of Superlight rims. My question then becomes, if I get new rear axles made by Moser to fit the Ford 8.8", can they make the housing ends with the proper bolt pattern to match the stock MG pattern? I am looking at their order form right now and they don't have a set that, to me at least, meets these measurements. Any info?
D. T. Barnes

I don't know about Moser, but most companys that make axles can make any wheel bolt pattern you want. If Moser doesn't, it would be a policy matter, not technical. I would imagine they would do it.

When I had my Ford 9" axle narrowed by Currie, I had them make the axles with a 4-bolt TR6 bolt pattern so I could use Panasports.
Dan Masters

Okay, sounds good. I know that Moser would probably do it, I was trying to lure out some of the guys that have had it done, but that works too. I could always see what rear end pattern they could do, as long as Superlite or Minilite or Panasport makes the 8 spokes for that pattern (thats more what I was looking for). I put in a query to Moser on the subject and am awaiting a reply (doesn't help that I'm at work and can't get the necessary measurements until tonight).
D. T. Barnes

Curtis, any of the above mention rear ends are good for the swap. The S-10 is different than the late model Camaro. The S-10 is heavy but it's an option.

All of the rear axles mention can have the 9" Ford ends welded. Moser will make just about any axle you may need.
Currie epecialty is 8" and 9" ford They have brand new housings axles and a alum. center carrier for the 8"

You can go crazy with the rear axle
We have a 8" with alum carrier, posi traction, rifle axles (hollow for weight savings) special hangers disc brakes etc. cost $4500 it also has neg camber.

As per Dan Masters, they can do any bolt pattern, the smallest is 4"
Bill Guzman

I have a currie 8 inch housing, if you just buy the housing supplied and narrowed to your spec from currie its very cheap,then get moser to build a set of custom axle shafts again very cheap,the diff can come from the breakers or whatever,the housing I got was like new with new tubes double welded inside and even a magnet epoxed inside! the moser shafts were again good,but it took a month of emails, faxes, phone calls to get my order

dk lowe

now here i go i'm not a great car guru [most,, 85% of the talk on this thread is way over my head!!] was told by p.o. that my B has rear out of 1985 post office jeep he said it was dana 44??[what ever that is ] it has ford bronco drum brake pads at least that what i was told by him would fit & they did..he also said rear was posi.[it isnt]..this rear HASENT been cut down fits under there nice [i have no idea what the gearing is ,or even if the p.o. jeep thing is right]does anyone know of this?? can anyone give me discrip./#'s of rear i havent been able to prove or disprove it 4 guys [locals] said they could tell what it was but after coming out from under car they had no idea...i'd like to put [ok have someone] put on rear disks & 7" booster/gm type master cyl.similar to what alot of the street rodders do [my brakes are scarey,,pedal goes 3/4 way to floor before they work,, but then they do work..also can someone reccomend mechanic near Hagerstown Md./Harrisburg pa. area capable of this work ?? thanks..

That is correct, the P O jeep had a dana 44 which it was 1" wider 53" (not sure) also the center was offset
Several swaps were done with this axle due to the ease of installing. The problem is the rear brakes adaptation and finding the correct wheel cylinder size.
Perhaps the wheel cylinder is to large and that is why your brake pedal has so much travel.
Bill Guzman

I got my 8.8 axles from Moser with the mg bolt pattern. Just make sure you have them do your rotors or drums also.

Ryan Reis

If you go to and download the January 2002 "British V8 Newsletter", you'll find a full page article on use of the post office axle in MGBs, including a couple good photos and identification information...
Cheers, Curtis

hello & thank you mr. guzman[wished you lived in pa.]i really need to find someone around here with your knowledge[have read many of your comments on many threads..]riggins abound on my B.I've taken care of many[j.b. welded tranny mounts?? imagine the new ones were $8.00--no engine braces--inadequate radiator,,on &on] myself,,but the brake mods. are beyond me,,the wheel cyl's are NASTY[understatement!!] i'm positive the orig. master cyl./booster is also gone by the way [want to have job done right]. i have fitted new shoes,spent more time than i care to admit to adjusting them , turned the proporting valve everywhich way[cant see that it does a dam thing].[done fooling around..]also thanks to mr. curtis[co.]downloaded that file from v/8 newsletter my rear definatly has the flat area between lugs[which according to article is dana 44] but mine is definatly not a posi,,will try to have that also fixed[ TO ]posi. when doing brakes,,article also stated D&D was going to fab.on disk setup for this rear..i'll be callin them have bought several things from them at this point & have bothered them with several dumb questions[no complaints from me!!]need to have closer look but i'm 95% sure my rear is what is pictured in article,,still need to find someone in area capable of this work[my track record pickin mechanics is HORRIBLE,another understatement..]i really cant say enough about this [page][site]Friendly/Knowledgable people,,,thanks for puttin up with dim wits like me....

Shifting back to the wheel thread in this discussion... Limiting to Panasport/Minilite style wheels, Tony recommended are there other suppliers (besides Moss/VB) that are competitive?

I'm trying to figure out what my options are so I can close on what bolt pattern I want.


RE: wheels- look on EBay at Konig Rewinds for Datsun Z, same lug pattern as MGB but less backspace more deep dish. They are minilite style and look to have clearance for large caliper disk brakes. There is a set in Graphite with polished rims in 14x7 for $350. With 215 60 tires and mild flares off a VW Cabriolet is what I am going to do. Plus Centerline 3 wing knock off look hub center caps.
JN Jim

Regarding the Konig can call the distributor directly in CA...530 626 7334...ask for Tyler
Mike Maloney

I called the number above & talked to one of the Tylers (a woman)... sizes are a bit limited... 15x7 is the only 15". It has zero offset & 4 bolt MG lug pattern.

Price is a bit better than the packracingproducts ones above (although I didn't compare weight)... The Koenig's are $167 cheaper (assuming same shipping cost).

I was planning to do a 5x4.5" pattern thinking it'd be easier to get parts later. Not sure if that really matters though as the only part I'm likely to need to replace might be rotors & they shouldn't be lug pattern specific, right?


I too was thinking 5 lug, but I really like the looks of the Rewinds. Jake on this board was working on a 300zx Rotor Volvo 4 pot brake setup so you could retain the 4 Lug pattern. I also check the HybridZ board as the Z has the same bolt pattern. They use the Toyota 4X4/4Runner caliper. It looks a little large but I would mill the fins off the outside. I plan on retaining the stock rear end until it breaks. I would like disks on back, maybe 200sx or 240sx Nissan so I could have a parking brake. I heard some where that there is a source for steel thrust washers to replace the composite and copper ones in the rear end.Also on the HybridZ board there is an interesting thread on Wilwood master cylinders.
JN Jim

For Minilites check with Moss Motors, they are the distributors for Panasports which has a wheel just for the MGB it has the correct spacing. If you use the Z wheel offset it will not fit properly in the B unless you use fender flares or cut the lip. I have a set on my daily driver they are Panasports 15X7 Z wheels and carry a tire that is 225X50X15 in the rear and the front it has 215X55X15 same dia different foot print. If you use any other wheel then consider the offset, which now is measured by the front of the wheel and it reads +38mm etc. for the MGB look for 45mm to 52mm 50mm is the allot easier to find than 52 and higher.
Bill Guzman

Denny, I would gladly help you. Feel free to ask any questions send me an e-mail or just call me.
Make a list first, start with the brakes or suspension but concentrate in one section at the time. Engine & trans, Suspension and brakes. The rest can come later.
Bill Guzman

Bill, great info as always, thanks. Can you clarify your 15x7 Z series... if i'm reading it right, you're running those but had to cut the lip or use flares... is that right? any chance you can send a picture?

Very interesting thread. Eventually I would like to change my rear axle but right now I am in the process of making the final arrangements to flare my 74.5 MGB Rover 3.5.
I am searching for wheels I like. There isn't much in the 15" size that appeals to me, what does appeal to me seems to be discontinued. But as soon as I look at the 17" there is quite a selection.
By running various tire size’s through the calculator provided at the following site
I worked out that a 205/45/17 would end up as .3% too slow 60MPH = 60.2 MPH
What problems would a 17” wheel cause?
Bruce Mills

A lot stiffer,bumpier ride due to lower sidewall,better cornering on smooth rods. Ebay has a set of Cobra R type in 17" new in box listed under Datsun wheels/same lug pattern as MGB.(4X4.5).
JN Jim

Oh, I forgot to mention you would need a wider tire (245 40 17 probably) and 1.5 spacers because of backspacing, plus flares; beautiful wheels though.
JN Jim

I just remembered that you can get Cobra R type wheels in 16" and 17" in 4x4.25 from Mustang suppliers in widths from 7-10" and colors: chrome,silver,black,gunmetal,etc.. Since you would need a spacer anyway; just get a 1.5" adapter(4X4.5 car to 4X4.25 wheel).
JN Jim

For those that are not adverse to switching to a new bolt pattern consider 4X100mm. Lots wheel of choices.
Carl Floyd

Thanks Jim

That is good news and good information.
I really like the Cobra R's

Bruce Mills

The 15X7 Panasports for a Z will have to use a 60 series tire to be able to fit and the rear lip cut off but is betteer to bend flat then you may have to roll the fender to completetly clear.

In A B 16 is the max but 17 have been use.
Point: The stiffer the tire the more traction it will have and the more roll will induce, this is due to the weight transfer during cornering. To correct this a stiffer spring must be use to complement the stiffer tire, once this is done a stiffer ride is accomplish by the spring and the small aspect ratio of the tire.

A 17 wheel could be use with a tire that has soft side wall.
Bill Guzman

D.T. and Bill,
I have 15X7 Panasport wheels with Yokohama ES100 205x50x15 tires on my lowered 1977 B. I don't get rubbing on the fender. the tire is about 1/4-3/8 inch from the lip when the car is parked. There is very slight rubbing on the inner rail ONLY evident because the dirt is rubbered off. I never notice it. But I also sized my axle to locate the wheels. I wasn't in a situation trying to find an offset that would function for a width already on the car.
Panasport in Los Angeles (310-373-0071) will make their 4X4.5 lug pattern wheels in different offsets. They certainly make the MGB offset. I don't remember what the standard MGB offset is but they do make it.
Thought I'd throw this in. For a spare I use the 14 inch inflatable spare tire from a Z. I think it was a 260Z. Works on front and back even with the 8.8 inch ford rear with disk brakes. I haven't checked it too see if it would rub on the fender with hard cornereing though. But in a pinch, to get from piont a to point B, it won't be a problem.


That is the correct way of doing it Rick.
Select the wheel and tire combo, then have the axle cut to the needed measurement.
Keep in mind that diferent manufactures have diferent dimension on their tires. No all tire are created equal.
BTW. that hump can be removed and a patch welded.
Originally the was going to have a coil suspension that is why it has that hump in side.
Bill Guzman

This thread was discussed between 03/01/2006 and 11/01/2006

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