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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Oil Blown Everywhere
|I wanted to see if anyone has any experience with the Flotec oil adapter. I had asked the thread several weeks ago about excess oil pressure. I have gone through enough oil that I got a thank you card from a Arab. I thought I had it licked. I removed the spring from the oil adapter and ran my drill and re-installed the spring and steady 50-60# of pressure. Drove the car to have the exhaust installed and after the exhaust man cranked it to check for leaks, 3+ quarts of oil on his floor. We cleaned it up and I again remove the spring, spun it up and re-installed the spring and even oil pressure at about 60#. Drove the car around and heated it up and ran about 10 miles, no issues. Went down tonight to crank it to go for a drive and I saw the oil pressure to up past 80# and I shut it off. Went up front, and again, the oil filter blew out the o-ring and oil everywhere. |
The spring does not seem to be too strong and when it was warm it ran at 50-60# of pressure. I am at a loss to what to do next and tried of mopping oil and supporting the oil companies as I have blown out at least a case of oil messing with it.
|When warm you should have around 10 lbs of pressure for every 1,000 rpm's. This oil system works with volume, not pressure. 50-60 sounds WAY too high for warm running to me...|
|Not an expert, but a few possibilities.|
Either that valve is still sticking, or the oil channel it is blowing off to, has an (intermitant)ostruction. Another very faint, unlikly, possibility is that the return line from filter to engine has an (intermittant) obstruction. The blow off can't handle 100% flow.
Check the valve for perfect roundness, has it been dropped or dammaged. burrs etc ie it rotates a bit and then sticks. Is oil able to get out of the spring area behind the valve plunger?. This would explain why it works the first time, and not after. I know you need to pack the oil pump with vaselene for first start, perhaps some of this has got into the oil valve. Or silicon sealant
Do you have the right gasket?
I had similar problem when I first ran my engine after its rebuild. I think there might have been something (metal swarf) causing the oil pressure relief valve to stick. I solvede the problem by purchasing a "tadpole" valve from JE Engineering in the UK. This is shown in the Hardcastle book. It is a "ball" valve instead of a cylindrical valve and it cannot stick!
|Jeff - the only real clue is the pressure when 'normal'. This pump NEVER exceeds 45 PSI so you may have an inaccurate guage or a faulty valve or as Peter suggests, a problem with the return line. I would dismantle the pump again and if nothing is apparent - remove/inspect the hoses/oil cooler and change the filter doublechecking its suitability. Look particularly at the wire gauze filter which covers one of the hosends.|
| jeff , this happened to me the night before a big meet, what a mess. I found I had put in a relief valve from a 215 when using a V6 metric base doesn't work. |
good luck finding it
|Not sure but think I might have it fixed. I went to NAPA today and looked for a different spring. I bought a new oil pump kit with 4 different springs. They were are different lenghts and pressure, so I took the one with the least pressure and cut it to about 3/16 shorter than the one I took out. I re-installed and it ran about 45# with the drill. I re-installed the distributor and cranked it and the pressure came up to about 40-50# and stayed there until the engined warmed and dropped about 5# or so. I cranked it several times and it worked correctly each time. I did not have a chance to drive it as it was raining today in Alabama, but I will cross my fingers and hopefully this has it fixed and I will only support the oil barrons at regular oil changes.|
Thanks for everyones input.
This thread was discussed between 29/04/2006 and 01/05/2006
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