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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Replacing oil pan gasket
|I need to replace my Rover v8 oil pan gasket, as it (or something on the RHS of the engine block) is leaking and the car is marking its territory too significantly. Looking under the car, this looks to be no fun at all: have to get the steering rack and the exhaust pipes out of the way, and then the bolts are set in so close that I don't think you can get an ordinary socket on them. What a pain in the rear this looks to be.|
I went into a Land Rover dealer today and asked for a gasket, and they said they didn't use gaskets, just made 'em up with Permatex. Is that the best practice? Any other tricks of the trade one should know before embarking on this process?
Also are there any other likely suspects besides the oil pan gasket (oil sump is all gooey about halfway back on the RHS, so gooey that there is a stream of oil droplets all the way back to the right rear shock).
One possibly relevant fact is that the car only leaks when it is turned on (apparently on startup).
Im a bit of a novice but when I built mine I asked for a gasket and got one...lovely big floppy thing! bit of gasket compound and fine. They say that you shouldn't over tighten the bolts get them even and make sure the bit where the dist/timing chain bolts on the front is clean and has extra compound to bridge the crack between the plates. I don't know what permatex is but I say you cant beat a gasket, make sure it hasnt been screwed up when shipped or the fit may be a problem.
the only other place I can think the oil may be coming from is the oil pump housing? or remote filter? hoses or oil pressure gauge pipe?
To get the oil back to the rear shock is fair going tho'
I have just had a look and I assume that you mean the bolts above the steering x-member, yep, looks like a problem. On most V8 conversions the set ups can vary slightly. My engine is slightly lower and further back than most. Try using a socket on a ratchet/electric screw driver handle for the ones that you can reach. with a small extension this is the best way to get to the nasty ones between the rear of the sump and the gearbox as the width is limited. From memory there is a spacer/washer on these which is a bit fiddly. I dont know if you do get the bolts all out, if the sump will come off as the oil pickup may foul it, you may need to look at lifting the engine slightly to give you clearance but that may pose problems with the bell housing/head to fire wall gap depending on the mods carried out on the car. Make sure you clean engine and sump fac thoroughly before refitting.
Heres one for thought, I have been told that if the flametrap gets blocked it can increase the internal pressure in the engine and start to force oil out of gaskets.
|You might ask for a gasket for a Buick 215. Mine came in a complete gasket set. The fit is OK, but not perfect. If you can't get one, consider a product called "The Right Stuff" I believe it's made by permatex. It's a rubber based product rated for 400 deg F. I have much better luck with it sealing than regular Permatex|
|Well, I am an idiot. I figured out how to do it, but I ended up stripping one of the engine block's threads in the process. Duhhhh. After the fact I was told that torque spec is only 7 foot-lbs. for these bolts! |
Fortunately there is a guy a couple of miles away who is terribly good at heli-coiling stuff. Question: is there any reason I shouldn't just have him helicoil all of the oil pan bolt holes in the block? Also, would using studs rather than bolts help alleviate the problem?
If it aint broke, don't fix it. there are loads of them and I cant see any good reason if you should go to the expense.
This thread was discussed between 01/11/2000 and 05/11/2000
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