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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Starting after 2 years in a garage...
Can anyone offer any advice on the following:
We have an mgb roadster with an SD1 V8 engine fitted. (offenhauser manifold and holley carb)
The vehicle was my late father in law's and has stood in a dry garage since his passing away over 2 years ago.
The vehicle was in perfect working order and has not been touched.
We intend to start it, MOT it and run it regularly.
My question is, what checks would anyone recommend I make before proceeding?
Many thanks in advance
|Matt,I would pull the spark plugs,turn it over and make sure you have oil pressure,it would be better to pull the distributor and prime the oil pump via an electric drill and rod with end made to the same spec as the bottom of distributor,this is of course a lot more involved! If you have oil pressure and start the engine make sure the carb gaskets are not leaking.|
Before you even start the engine - CHECK THE BRAKES FROM END TO END. THEN BE ABSOLUTELY RUTHLESS ON THE TYRES NEVER MIND THE TREAD DEPTH - ARE THEY AGE CRACKING OR EVEN DELAMINATING. WITH A V8 AND THE PRIMITIVE SUSPENSION OF A B YOU ARE DEALING WITH A LETHAL MIXTURE UNLESS THEY ARE OK -I SPEAK AS ONE WHO HAS SEEN OLD TYRES LOOKING SUPERB BUT HAVE GONE .ALSO UNLESS THE CAR HAS BEEN MOVED REGULARLY OR BEEN ON STANDS THEY MAY WELL HAVE FLATS ON THEM .
best of luck with the rest
V8 Roadster with new tyres ,uprated(4pot calipers)and modified suspension/steering
You are not far away from V8 conversions in Farnborough Kent -the original MGB modifiers-Dave Vale knows the answers
Like any car, except the engine in MGB V8's has not worked particularly hard.
They are way overpowered for their weight, so good tyres as Andy suggests. I use Michelin low rolling resistance XM-1's. A little more expensive, but they last about 3 times as long as anything else, and you save fuel. But thats for the (Near) future
You'll likly need a new battery.
Do a full service, it's been two years after all.
Change the oil (and filter) of course.
drain and replace the Water/glyco mixture.
Grease all the various nipples on the suspension before driving it far.
New spark plugs (do the turnover thing as Dave suggests at that time) You can also see if the sparks are infact sparking by attaching one to a lead nd wedging it (eg the back edge of the grill) somewhere (away from any petrol). Oh and number your leads before you pull them off, there are alot of them!
The electric drill thing you might want to reserve for if the pressure doesn't come up within (guessing)5 or 10 seconds. On mine it's almost immediatly.
On that subject, try to prefill your remote oil filter and flexible lines. Saves the delay in filling them up with the pump. Use an oil filter with an anti flowback valve. These are commonly availiable and written on the box somewhere.
It might have an MGB axle, or an SD1 axle.
Being a special, it might also have "secret" kill switches here and there. I've a couple. The usual one is on the fuel pump, Switch on the ignition and listen for fuel pump noises. SU's are notorious for sticky points, if infact the cars uses an SU pump, it might be anything. If infact the car has an electric pump. It might have the older style mechanical one on the portside of the front cover of the engine. Follow trace the fuel line and follow the wires if you get no fuel.
The distributor may or may not have points, depends
You could of course just wack in a new battery, check the oil and water level then turn the key!
You've got to ask yourself, do you feel lucky.. well do you..! (with appologies to Clint E)
This thread was discussed between 17/07/2007 and 18/07/2007
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