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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - v8 engine mounts

I think I've seen these before, The metal brackets [that bolt onto engine] have these featured on any of the early Rovers- P6B, or Range Rover? they look familiar, -and the quoted price for the genuine article just frightened me!

I had a spare set of P6 brackets and can confirm that they are not suitable. I bought the cast aluminium type brackets from Clive Wheatley. They were a bit expensive (50 the pair), but very good. You can also get the fabricated steel type...don't know what they cost though.
Pete Green

They are about $120 a pair from MG workshops in Melbourne but if you are using a Supra box (Jeff Dellow in Daisy street Reevsby Sydney)Then you'll probably want to make your own version any way because the supra box is shorter than the MG one, so you'll probably want to set the motor further back from the standard position to get the gear lever right (and take advanage of improved weight dist' and more radiator/Fan room
They are easy enough to make, but need to be MIGed to get the engineers OK. Two flat plates bolted to either side of the block attached to an angled bit for the rubber mount to attach to.

Hi Peter,Have the Castlemaine version of the Dellows [I believe that it's the same casting] How far back , from standard will the engine go?[The car is a late 79 GT]The Rover I pulled it from had about 2 inches cut out of the front end of the lever hole [and even with this mod the lever itself has been modified to bring it back another 2 inches]At the moment Im still at the getting all the info together to work out which direction too take ,Wife wants car to have auto power steer, reliable jap motor and aircond. After 20 v8 Rovers and 2TR8s I like the jap engine idea ,the rest I can live without[probably have too- there wont be much room left with her recipie] I have a couple of Rover 5, speeds which will line up better, but like 99% of them 2nd gear needs replacing, and the engines are far to thirsty.The toyota box will be the choice if I take the v8 route.

The Rover motor is pretty damn reliable if you can get a 3.9 EFI. The 3.5's have all those problems with the block cracking, but the 3.9 strong block seems to be immne. Basically the best I think is a early 90's efi (the one with the tune resistor in the loom) with a new short 3.9 motor underneath. Triumph and Rover spares in Adelaide were advertising them (high comp' & new)for $3000 last year.
Also a V8 sounds like magic and ther's resale value to consider, an MGV8 has legitimicy.
The Supra boxes come in 4 different lengths, the 21 inch is the best/longest but even so is about one inch short of ideal. My motor is set about 2 inches further back than standard but I did a little dressing back under the heater, the LHS of the tunnel and also about 1cm on the tunnel side of the bulkhead near the steering cone. The metals soft and it didn't take long. I also placed the gear lever/back of the box as high as possible so that the 14mm offset of the trany tunnel gear lever hole didn't interfere with the gear movement. This also had the advantage of moving/tilting the heads forward and away from the bulkhead (more room) and moving the exhaust manifold away from the steering knuckel.
The Rover box locates the gear lever about one inch too far back (and 14mm offset RHS toward the
driver of course)Engine in std posn.
You really won't need power steering. The supra box is 25kg lighter than the MG one and if you fit 15inch alloy wheels the steering gets quite light. Where you may need an assist is the clutch. I use a one inch slave and from the point of view of the Leg is about the same as the 1800 one; not especially light for a woman. SOme people use a remote brake vacuum servo to assist

Peter ,Thanks ,that's enough information to keep me going for a while,I will be using the toyota box if I go V8 [engine is 4.6 [JE crank, omega pistons] It was in the most frightening Rover I have ever owned-the death wish car!Iwill run a Federal injection system, it fits under the bonnet, and might just slow it down a bit,I have a ramtube system ,but am loath to do all the shortening required too get it to fit, everything I've read about this system empathises the fact that the lengths of tubes and distance to combustion chambers is critical too get max benefit.Resale value-re using jap engine- is not a problem, I tend to build them how I like them, then run them till they're junk, then use anything salvageable on the next one... I don't subscribe to the "custodian" theory, IT'S MINE,

p.s,Peter, re that supplier , been there done that, there are probably dozens of cheaper places too buy parts,[ask any triumph owner] I'd even include my local fruit shop Better after taste.


Go Rus!!

Re: T& R, I did have some trouble with a fly wheel & fuel pump, but I figured that you couldn't go wrong with a new motor.
Can you suggest a good/better supplier?, this sort of info is useful.

I'm new to the MG mad car disease scene- don't know any body parts suppliers, but for anything mechanical, try Karcraft 9Egerton St. Silverwater Sydney.[02]97379944.Rover engine Parts- Range Parts[02]98962355 Don't think either have websites.Karcraft does all english sports cars, no panels, Peter at Range parts [ex JRA]has big range of Rover engine bits, 3.9s,occasional 4.6s short , He is a mechanic, and will build full engines, if you catch him in the right mood. For harder to get parts Sports Car Spares {02]96319181 has everthing [including panels] but is a touch on the pricey side .Ihave found that if ,it's light, and you don't need it in a hurry, get it sent from the UK or US.Post,[airfreight companies are famous for additional charges]If you run into any TR8 owners, ask them about the extracters from South Australia that have to be put on a heart/lung machine to make them breath.

This thread was discussed between 04/09/2003 and 08/09/2003

MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical index

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