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MG MGB Technical - Advice, Comments Needed

I would just like some advice as I am getting my 79 B back on the road and wanted to hear from people what they think I should do in the ways of a solid running car.

I just purchased a Su hs4 setup to convert my carbs over. Getting new headers and exhaust as well.

Now I also am going to be getting the advancedautowire kit in the future, have a crane ignitor to switch out the box on my distributor (got it insanley cheap at a moss motors show) Should I stick to my distributor or buy an upgraded one available from moss, any other sources for a distributor? I could just sell the crane on ebay. Also has anyone used the second strike system available from moss and again does anyone know where to get it where the mark up isnt so much. I havent leafed through the moss motors catalouge in a while and man they definetly did a price hike.

Im running all new fuel lines

The last time I checked all my brake lines were fine. Had new rubber lines put in a year or two ago. But obviously it would be great to just run all new lines. Maybe a new master cylinder in the future as mine is in working order.

Also going to be changing all the bushings.

Anyone have any advice as to which I should do first,

I could always do the wiring first and then switch the distributor out etc, what order and what else do you guys think I should do to make sure I have a solid running B, its going to be my daily driver. I have my own thoughts but would just like to hear what everyone else would do, etc... The money is going to be there but in steps


If you are thinking about a new distributer for your Crane ignition why not just sell it and Buy a Mallory Unilite. I have had one on my 64 for about 6 years now and I have yet to have to re-time it. The funny thing about it is when you hook it up to a dwell meter it shows none of the wild fluctuations(?) that even a new Lucas does. It seems by the time you get all your money spent it would be cheaper and better to get a matched unit and not a bunch of parts. Just my thoughts. Ed

Yea I agree,
Anyone have any experiences with the MGB Flame Thrower Performance Distributor?

Do you guys think the Distributor before the New Electric al Harness ? My distributor is alright for now...

James. I am going through the same process with a 79 right now. It has been off the road for a number of years and I have been working on it for 11 months now. It should be finished soon.

First thing is safety. Any safety related area needs to be addressed. Brakes, steering, and suspension. A front end rebuild can include dropping the front cross member, having it sandblasted, repainting it, along with new pads, then going on to the bushing replacement and inspection of the kingpins and the kingpin bushings in the stub axles. New wheel bearings, oil seals, and the proper shim pack to make it all work properly.

After that, it is mechanical reliability. Engine needs to be able to run in a reliable and cool manner, then, needs to be tuned so it is running as well as possible. If your distributor is working, leave it alone for the time being. When the engine is running well, a new distributor might be part of the tuning process. But, only make one change at a time so that, should there be a problem, you have only one variable instead of many variables, some of which can interact. For a road car, a standard distributor and coil work just fine.

Wiring harness is the last thing to do. Get the car on the road, get it running well, then, if necessary, change out the wiring harness. Again, the idea when making any change is to have as few variables as possible should there be a problem. This makes for a much simplified trouble shooting process.

Les Bengtson

Yea I agree, ive had the car for a while and trying to remember what the hell ive done and what I havent, what I need to replace, little things that add up.

Now the reason Im talking about the harness is 1) the PO 2) got the car painted after I straightened the wiring out as best as I could, had turns signals working etc and lights then when it got painted the guy screwed up and messed around with getting everything working which didnt happen 3) To be able to upgrade the lighting, have turn signals working all the time and not have to worry about the hazard switch problem, all this in conjunction with a alternator upgrade which I have to do as my alt and battery are shot.

This goes on my list with saftey. But obviously I need to have someone install it as I just dont want to be bothered with doing the electric myself. Anyone know of anyone good in NY, or a quote for how much that would cost ?

Although I guess under saftey I could say new Minilites with rubber would be good too, ha, as my wheels fall out from under me, but at least Ill look good doing it

i think aldon sell the best dizzy for road use with standard cam i was advised to go for aldon 101by2 and a simple igniter which replaces the points,the good thing about it is you can change back to points in minutes at the side of the road
Aldon Automotive Online Shop - Performance in Engineering the exhaust system i went for was from moss a standard bore three branch manifold ,standard bore exhaust with a bullet box and silencer at the gives a nice tone but is silent on the motorway . they are made by falcon
Moss Europe, Ltd - Classic Parts for Classic, MX-5, MGF, Mini, MGB i think the best poly bushes are super flex and are not to hard dont for get to fit the wish bone bushes
Mech Spec MG Centre - Spares & Servicing - New Parts, Used Parts, Everything MG

I have an 80 LE and my worst problem is I spend more time with it up on jackstands or the hood up and parts scattered than I do driving the car. It's March and I would recommend economizing your work efforts to things that need to be done, parts that you have and consider the time you have.

My car is in excellent condition, but I'm always tinkering with some new part, watching e-bay too much (got a roll bar on the way) or some other distraction from just having it ready to drive on those warmer days that are just around the corner.

If your current carburetion runs well, I'd hold off on the SUs until it's too cold in the fall to drive it anymore. Likewise, if the suspension is OK at the moment, it can wait (top off the shocks for now). I've done the total front rebuild and it's time consuming. I still have the rear system (leaf springs and bushings) in my shop and will try that before spring while I install the new roll bar. Like some have mentioned above, make sure it's safe to drive, but consider how you'll feel with it all torn down on some gorgeous May day when you could be driving it.
Rick Penland

Yea I know what your saying Rick, ive had this car since I was 15! Im 26 now! 11 years and counting, wow, the time has gone by very fast. Im definetly doing the SU's, headers, fuel line, brake lines, brakes and bushings. From there we will see. Just worried about it not passing inspection due to the blinkers not working. Same with the brakes and bushings, rather replace them all before I go in for inspection. Just wish I was making a little more money at the moment, as im sure we all do.

I installed a advanced auto wire harness on my Ol'Ladys 79 MGB. I gutted all the wires out of the car. I did leave about 6 inches of wire from each component but I found myself running the new wire all the way to each component anyway and not using any of the old wire at all.

As I made each connection I crimped and soldered each connection and then put shrink tubbing on it.

I first found a location for the relay panel, mounted it and routed the wires form there. I did find I needed some more wires but I gathered them up myself.

Also I did modify the diagram to fit what I actually wanted to do but the basic setup was great.

The best advice I can give having just done a complete rewire is know the wiring diagram inside and out. I spent a week or so going over each line making sure I understood what was going on. If I had a question I emaild Advance auto wire and they got back to me very quickly.

RSF Bob Fowler

This thread was discussed between 01/03/2007 and 02/03/2007

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