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MG MGB Technical - Alignment fixins'
My '73B is now starting to pull to the right. I've got a book on alignment but it really doesn't go to deep into just how to start. Just specs. Anyone know any good starting points or any good tricks to get going. I'd like to begin this weekend because in the next couple of weeks I'll be needing knee surgery. Never hit anything/tires all O.K. |
victor gardino |
Check your tire pressure first and then bring it to get aligned at a shop if it continues to pull. |
Mike MaGee |
Victor The only thing to align is the toe in. If you have other measurements off you have repairs to do to the front end. Make sure your tie rod ends are tight and that your rack and pinion assembly is lubed and working well with no apparent slack. Jack the car up in the front and spin the wheel while chalking a line on the tread surface on each front tire. Put the car back on the ground and measure the distance between the front of the tires and the back. There is supposed to be a very small fraction of an inch difference from front to rear. Look it up - I think it may be an 1/8". Just a little toe in. You need to measure from the farthest foward point and rearward points on each tire. Use a vertical level against the chalk line to project that line to ground level for the measurement. When you adjust your tie rod ends take care as to which side you adjust. You want the tires pointing straight ahead when your steering wheel is centered. If you look in the archives there are several threads on this issue. Barry |
Barry Parkinson |
A sticking/dragging brake could make it pull, too. |
Tom |
Check the location of the rear axle. If it has moved the car will pull one way or another. Check the wheel centres they should be within 1/8" side for side. |
Iain MacKintosh |
Thanks for the imput from all. I'll be getting to it this weekend. Be back soon with what I've found. |
victor gardino |
Barry, Victor I generally find that a chalk line is wide enough to give some uncertainty in the measurements. I use a sharp pointed nail driven through a piece of wood such as a 12" length of 1 x 2. I then jack the front end high enough that I can position the nail under and against the tire tread while holding it in a fixed position and maintaining a moderate pressure against the tread and then spin the wheel. This gives a sharp, clear line on the rubber. It has worked well for me over the past 40 years or so. HTH Larry |
Larry Hallanger |
This thread was discussed between 02/08/2005 and 04/08/2005
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