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MG MGB Technical - Automec brake pipes - wrong threads?
|I am trying to bend up and fit new Automec brake pipes to my 78B. First problem was figuring out which pipe went where but I did that by comparing lengths to the old ones. I started bending the new ones into shape which is pretty easy as the pipe is soft (though it doesn't seem to be straight copper). I was fitting the left hand rear pipe and I struck a snag. The fitting on the end that goes to the brass T piece near the middle of the axle is the wrong thread! It doesn't fit. The fitting itself has notches in the nut. I always thought that meant reverse thread (like on oxy-acetylene gear) but in this case I am guessing it means metric? I checked the other pipes and the long one which runs the length of the car is also wrong. They are definitely the wrong threads to fit the fittings I have. Seems to be a 1mm thread pitch.|
Could I just have a badly made set of pipes with the wrong fittings or is there something I am missing? I guess I have to take them to my local brake place and get a couple of new ends put on.
|Ah, I figured out my mistake. Seems the master cylinder uses the notched connectors (which i realised as soon as I saw the two front brake pipes). I got the pipe at the rear left mixed up with the pipe from the master to the rear brakes.|
|Sorry to keep posting to my own thread but I still have a problem! I got all the pipes in the right places now. Very tricky getting them all bent and fitted (I wish I had done that BEFORE fitting engine and everything else) butit seems I do have a pipe that's way too long. This is the one running from the master on the right hand side across the front crossmember to the front left wheel. The pipe is about a foot too long. All the other pipes are now in place and fit nicely. Just that one is off. I guess if I can find someone with the appropriate flaring tool i can just chop off the excess and reflare the end?|
I've read that if you have a standard double-flare tool, that leaving off the last step in the process gives you the proper bubble flare. I'll be finding that out first hand myself, as I'm also starting to run my new lines, and will be shortening some lines and probably changing some fittings. Yes, your plan to chop off and reflare is feasible. Best, Joe
|I am going to pop it into my local brake place (who rebuilt my master cylinders and supplied me with green stuff pads) after work today. I am sure they can fix it. I was lucky I was able to pull that one off the car without having to bend it anywhere.|
|OK, can get the pipe fixed no problem but the brake guy says I will never get the car re-registered/warrented in NZ with copper lines. He says the law here now says the car must pipes made from the same material it originally was made with. I guess that means steel. Problem here is I get told different stories by different people. The government agency won't tell me what the rules are. They say I have to take it to the proper testing place. And the testing place I rang wouldn't tell me. They said I had to take it to them and they would either pass or fail me. I said well can't you tell me what will definitely fail and they just said bring it in. Did original MGs ever have that copper alloy brake pipe fitted as standard? I notice a lot of the pics in the Clausager book show copper lines but I am guessing those are restorations?|
If you contact one of the MG Car Club across there somewhere they may be able to clarify the local rules for you. Our club here has a close association with the local Road Traffic Authority through the Council of local car clubs. The rules here are obtainable - not always sensible, but obtainable through that source.
Amazing that you could be given that sort of run-around. Though similar examples are emerging here I'm afraid.
Of course, a last ditch strategy might be to show the local inspectors the Clausager examples. "Of course the photographs represent cars in original condition Sir!"
I was just looking at the LTSA website and their official WOF requirements with respect to stainless steel brake lines and other mods to the suspension and braking systems.
I wasn't looking specifically for brake lines, but if you want the real deal from the horses mouth, so to speak, then go here:
|I meant SS brake hoses (which, incidentally, are kosher because they'r replacing OE hoses).|
Anyway, here's a specific link to the PDF for the WOF brake regulations:
|Hi Curtis, that still doesn't actually say what you can or can't use (although I agree it does look like you can use your SS hoses). The other problem is I have to go through a re-registration check which is different to the normal WOF I believe. I think they check a lot more things. That is the one I am hoping to find the rules for.|
Apparently the hotrod association do have a book they sell that lists what you can and can't do. You can buy it through them. But they did tell me they are currently rewriting it since the rules have changed and the new one isn't out until July I think it was.
Roger, I was thinking that I could show them the Clausager book! Also it seems EVERY MG parts supplier sells those copper/nickel brake pipes so I assume they all think they are a suitable replacement for original.
I had my pipe reflared and have it more or less on the car. I need to get new copper washers now and clip the pipes down but that job is almost done.
Be careful what words you use. Copper brake lines are not legal in MANY places. However, copper-nickel brake lines are, and are OEM on many cars today.
The pipes you have are proibably NOT copper if you bought them from a reputable MGB supplier, they should be "Kunifer" or 90% Copper, 10%Nickel. they look like copper, bend like copper but are safe as brake lines. The UK never used pure copper for brake lines.
See the foillowing, it will tell you everything you need to knwo (and some you don't).
|Ah, thanks for the links! The pipes are definitely not pure copper. They must be the alloy. The look almost like copper but have a slight silver look to them as you'd expect with nickel added I guess.|
Yes, the Kunifer lines are just as you describe. As you can see from the articles, Kunifer is acually safer than steel lines as it doesn't rust.
This thread was discussed between 08/04/2006 and 10/04/2006
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