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MG MGB Technical - axle Support Strap

Hello,

I've had my 1973 MGBGT for a little over a week. It's my first so I'm very mch a novice.

I've been told the rear axle support straps are split. I can't find a reference to them in my Haynes manual. Can anyone help:- is the car safe to drive; are they something I can easily replace myself.

Any advice will be humbly received.

Thanks

Jim
J Fylan

The term "rear axle support straps" is not a standard phrase relating to MG's. I can think of 2 items which may fit that term loosely: 1: rear suspension leaf springs. If they have failed they do need to be replaced immediately before any further driving. 2: Rear axle limiting straps. If they have failed you should replace them soon. With mild driving you should fine for a day or two, until the parts come in - but then they do need to be replaced or you risk damage to the rear shock absorbers, and shocks are not as cheap as the straps.
.

Sounds like the rebound straps. These are rubber (actually more like the sidewall of a tire) straps that attach to the body of the car at one end and the axle at the other. There are two; one on each side of the car. Their purpose is to limit the downward travel of the axle, when the car hits a severe bump or when the car is jacked up.

They're not hard or expensive to replace. It can probably be done without even jacking the car up, although I wouldn't recommend it. If you do jack it up, make sure you have proper jackstands to support the car. Never, ever, ever, ever crawl under a car that is on a bumper jack or side jack, as used on MGB's. Even a floor jack (trolley jack on your side of the pond, I think) can slip and allow the car to fall.
Paul Noble

The correct is Rebound Straps as Paul noted. Moss Part #267-565 about $8.00 US each. Make sure the metal bushing inside is reusable or order new ones at the same time. Its an easy replacement, just undo a couple of nuts slide the old one off, the new one on. Check the uts befoe loosening them to inuret hey arent rusted up too badly. The lower end is affixed to a bolt welded to the rearaxle. if it breaks off your, as the expression goes, "buggered".
william fox

If you can't see the nuts turning on the stud, rather than turning it until it shears the stud you may have to cut/grind it off. If you do it carefully you should be able to get another (nyloc) nut on. Failing that, or if the stud does shear but leaves just enough stud, you can drill a hole through the stud to take a large washer and a split-pin. As a last resort you could even cut a slot in the end of the strap and drill the hole for a long split-pin in the middle of the stud.
Paul Hunt

Thankyou very much chaps.

Well done to the Irish and come England!!!
J Fylan

Jim,

It's worth pointing out that the nuts are usually seized so solidly on a UK car that if you try to undo them there is every chance that they you will shear the assembly they are attached too. You are then down to one of the solutions suggested by Paul or you can get a repair kit from Moss. The down side to that particular route is that involves welding in close proximity to the petrol tank. Realistically either the axle or the petrol tank has to be removed from the car.

Andy
ANDREW WRIGHT

Do they sell Blaster PB in the UK? Great stuff for penetrating rust. If not that, then get a good penetrating oil from the auto parts store and soak your nuts and bolts in it for the day before you try to remove them.

Note that WD-40 is not a penetrating oil. It's good for some stuff, but not this.

Matt Kulka

After having the car supported on jack stands, you may need a jack under the axle to keep it from dropping too far. I have found that heating the nut red hot with a torch usually allows removal while preserving the threads on the stud. This should only be done if there are NO fumes or leaks from the fuel tank or lines.
I had to weld a bolt to replace a sheared stud on my 76B several years back.

Pete H
Pete Haburt

This thread was discussed between 10/06/2002 and 12/06/2002

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