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MG MGB Technical - Bonnet Installation

Last night I removed the bonnet (hood if you are bi-lingual) on our 66 MGB to put some insulating pads on the underside. This morning came the dreaded task of reinstalling the bonnet and getting it aligned properly. The job took my wife and I 5 minutes, tops. Why was it so easy? Back 6 or so years ago, when finishing up the restoration, I noticed that there were two small (1/8") holes drilled in the bonnet hinges between the bolt holes and in a rare flash of inspired intelligence, after installing the bonnet and spending about an hour getting it aligned properly, I drilled the holes through the mounting ribs of the bonnet large enough to take some 3/16" spring pins. Now when the bonnet is removed and reinstalled, it is a simple matter of lining up the holes (the spring pins remain in the hinge on removal of the bonnet) and pushing the pins in place, followed by the bolts while the wife holds the bonnet and raises or lowers it at my command (request). After all the bolts are in place and finger tight, the gas struts are attached, the wife goes in the house to do wifely things and all I am left with is tightening the bolts. It has taken me longer to write this up than to reinstall the bonnet. If anyonw wishes to see pictures of the locating pins n the hinge, e-mail me. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Good work, Dave. Those 1/8" holes were originally drilled through the hinge, through the hood bracket, to locate the hood at Pressed Steel. At the factory, they took off the hoods at the top of the assembly line and marked them with the matching car's number. They then used the holes to line up the hood again when they reinstalled it at the end ot the line.

To ease intitial lining up of a replacement hood, if your engine is out, put the car up on jackstands, install the hood, close it, line it up the best it can be, then go under the car and into the engine bay to tighten up the hinge bolts.
Wade Keene

David,
I would love some pictures sent my way if you can. I have acquired a new hood to replace the one damaged in my supercharged MGB versus deer at 70 MPH encounter and would love to simplify the process as much as possible. If you have any other helpful hints to pass along at this time it would be much appreciated.
Frank

Wade - Thanks for the bacground info on the existing holes in the hinges. I suspected that they were factory, but wasn't sure. I even though that maybe it was the work of some SPO (Smart Previous Owner - is there such a thing?). Using those holes to install locating pins sure makes reinstallation of the hood a much easier task.
Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

BTW,
Wade I did have a short period of time(after the front end rebuild and SC install till meeting the deer) to enjoy the rebuilt swivel axles you did for me and have been very pleased with quality of your workmanship. You may keep me as a reference.
Frank


David
What gas struts!!?,was this something fitted to US Spec cars or are they something you have fitted yourself. I have only ever seen two different bonnet stays on MGBs the rod type on the early cars and the sliding type on later cars, and having owned about twelve MGBs I have never had one with gas struts
H.E.W. Walker

Thanks, Frank. I was real sorry to hear about the deer accident, no injuries other than the deer I hope. I had a deer jump out in front of my midget years ago and it seemed like it jumped over my headlight rims. I've never seen such a big animal. I'm off to the garage to get to work ... on a "crown like King Arthur wears with yellow and red" for my 4 y.o., Stew.
Wade Keene

Re gas struts.
Check out http://www.geocities.com/fla_eightup/
Unless you’re a purist, it is the only way to go.

Bruce
Bruce Mills

H.E.W. While I was lollygaging in Seattle, listening to the Count Bassie Orchestra, Bruce jumped in with the answer to your question. Ian Pender makes the struts available for the bonnet and the boot lid. They are really indespensible for the bonnet, holding it at about 80° (think bonnet on viagra). Cheers - Dave
David DuBois


Bruce
Have just checked out the website you suggested, they certainly look like a good idea, I should be able to find some suitable ones in UK. Thanks to you and to David for the info.
Regards
Harry
H.E.W. Walker

Alignment holes in the bonnet and hinges are fine if neither the original bonnet or the hinges have been damaged but if like Frank you have had an argument with a deer then the hinges might have become slightly modified. The only solution to this is the old trial and error method firstly only using the longitudinal bolts and only partially tightening them, closing the bonnet carefully and then tapping it back until all gaps are equal. Fully tighten these bolts close the bonnet and push down at the rear until flush with wings and dash top. Open and tighten the remaining bolts.

If hinges have become bent you will have insufficient gap between bonnet & dash. Heat curved part of hinge with oxy/acet torch until dull red and GENTLY pull front of bonnet to get sufficient clearance.
Iain MacKintosh

This thread was discussed between 01/04/2004 and 05/04/2004

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.