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MG MGB Technical - Brakes pull right

My brakes have been pulling slightly to the right. Adjusted rear brakes and still does it. Tweaked left rear adjustment a little tighter and made it worse so will start over. Worrying that I may have front brake problem. Can someone give me the big picture approach to diagnosing this?

I did replace fluid recently so am starting to wonder as I write this if I have some air in left front line keeping it from getting full and equal pressure. Will check that first.
J.T. Bamford

Rear brakes do not normally cause a vehicle to pull to the side. Because of this, the problem is at the front end and may be the result of number of different possible things. It could be as simple as low air pressure of one tire - or as serious as a rusted caliper that won't retract properly and causing the pads to remain hot (while the other side cools). The car tends to pull to the side that is braking the "hardest". Does it pull all the time or just after the car has made a few stops? Do you notice any "extra" noise (grinding or metallic sounds) and which side it comes from when you apply the brakes? Does the sound go away after you release the brakes? Does the car pull to the side suddenly when you apply the brakes and then brake evenly, or does it just drift to the side? How old are your flexible fluid lines? Miles on pads? Have you packed or replaced your wheel bearings lately and are the bearings adjusted properly? After a drive, is one front wheel hotter than the other, or is there smoke coming from one? How about a "hot" smell?

If there was air in the line, you should have a noticable "mushier" pedal feel that you probably didn't have before the fluid change.

If you aren't already knowledgeable about working on brakes, I suggest getting someone to look over your shoulder while you examine each side. Or get someone else to do the work.

Wayne
Wayne Pearson

There is so little braking effect at the rear that any pulling is almost certainly due to problems at the front. Air is also immaterial as 200psi in air is the same as 200psi in fluid, it only affects pedal spongyness. Push all four pads back from the discs (watch out for overflows from the MC) then push the pedal bit by bit. If one pad doesn't start moving until the others are pressing on the disc than that indicates a dodgy piston. Alternatively one may be stiff and failing to move back from the disc in normal driving. In the past another cause of pulling has been a failed front damper.
Paul Hunt

Wayne,
I seem to notice it more after couple stops but will test that. No noticeable noise. Also will check the style of the pull.. "Does the car pull to the side suddenly when you apply the brakes and then brake evenly, or does it just drift to the side?". Brakes were done before I got the car so have never had to do any work on this one. Haven't packed front bearings recently. They were done 4 years ago when I got the car and had initial suspension work done. Just replaced the front suspension arm inner bushings with the V8 bushings which cleaned up a lot of "wander" in the steering. Will check out the lines. They look good from outside but am not sure of age. Will check the heat levels but haven't noticed anything and there is no hot smell. I am around and under the car all the time and am VERY sensitive to how it drives, feels and smells. Have done some brake work before but haven't had to on this car. Doesn't really bother me or intimidate me to try the next thing that I haven't done before (bearings, rear springs, fuel pump, electrical diagnostics, front bushings, etc. etc.). Kinda the point really for me. I won't drive a 34 year old car that I can't do most all the work on. Thanks for all the detail.

Paul,
Thanks for that testing info. Was looking for something like that also.

Will post results after checking it out this weekend.

J.T. Bamford

Paul - A quick check to find the offending corner (if the problem is other than low inflation). Drive 10 or 15 MPH on a gravel road or drive way and hit the brakes hard enough to lock them up. Get out and look at the skid marks, the one that is a different length is the culprit. The problem could be a sticking cylinder of caliper that is not engaging with the other wheels as well as one wheel prematurely engaging. Brake shoe adjustment will not normally correct the problem. Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

This thread was discussed on 27/06/2003

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