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MG MGB Technical - Broken Rear Limiting Straps

Hello all,
Well, I noticed broken rear axel limiting straps when I first brought my 72 Roadster home, but thought is was only important for jacking the car up and not really that important.
I purchased new ones, but sheared the darn bolts off the bottom flush with the flange.
Seen a repair piece in catalog, but says requires welding. Don't have that capability.

Was wondering if anyones developed a niffty self repair method? I was wondering if the new straps could be cut open in the loop area and then bolted back together after slipping them under the broken shafts using a back-up plate. The rubber looped back to where it was originally sewn, and then drilling holes, back-up plate, and holding with 2 1/4" bolts?

Any thought's?

Hopefully I haven't done any damage to my rear shocks. I'ver jacked the car up 5-6 times and drove it 4-5 miles.

How would you tell if you've damaged rear shocks anyways? leaking?

Best regards,
Doug
DT Toms

Um, having a lot of fun with this 'ol girl aren't you? ;)

Let me see if I understand. You sheared off the head of the top bolt? Or the top bolt sheared off at the threads? Or (horrors) you sheared off the stud welded to the axle tube?

If the top bolt was sheared you should be able to cut off the remains of the rebound strap and get a set of mole-grips (vice grips) on it. Soak the threaded end with the penetrating oil of your choice (PB Blaster seems to be well regarded) and give er a go. There should be a distance tube on the bolt but a decent pinch will crush it well enough to grip the bolt. Of course you will need to source another distance tube.

If it's sheared off at the threads, well, I'm not certain you can get a drill up there or vice-grips to the backside. Someone else will have to comment.

If it's sheared off at the stud welded to the axle. Bite the bullet and get a new one welded on. Really no other fix worth a darn (that axle is HEAVY).

Mike!
mike!

Replace them with duct tape.
Just don't reuse the gerbil stuff.
phil

Yes,
Unfortunately I sheared the bottom inside nut on the stud.

I was hoping maybe you could grind off the stud head and get the darn stud shaft out and use the holes in the two side flanges and put a correctly sized shoulder bolt or something through to capture the strap loops.

Sounds like I need to find a welder and order the repair kit.

Yep, having a good old go at it with this girl.

I wouldn't be as disappointed if I hadn't paid too much for the car.

Another issue is garage space. The Misses parks her car in the garage once fall hits. I have to replace all the bushings in the front end, so I guess I'll pull it in backwards and have a go at the front end.

That way if I get stuck and it takes > month to figure my way through the fron end, she'll still have a parking spot :-).

Thanks for you time.

Doug
Doug Toms

I doubt if you have done any damage to the shocks just by jacking the car, not a lot of pressure applied to the stops. Certainly driving without the straps won't do any damage unless you plan on doing some off roading. You could probably do a repair as you mentioned, but repair of the mount should be done and the correct parts fitted. You should be able to find someone in your local club who could either make the welded repair for you or at least refer you to a good shop. Invest in a case of good rust penetrating oil, invaluable when working on these old beasties.
Bill Young

I'm not quite sure I understand what you're describing - there is a stud welded to the axle, then the strap, and then a large washer and a nut. These have sheared on me everytime I've tried to work on them, but at the nut end, leaving a short stud (2 inches or a little less) protruding from the axle.

If the stub is still there, you can run with the strap over that. There's virtually no lateral force exerted on the rebound strap. The first car I went to some lengths to put a washer and ciclip on, the second one seems to do fine without it.

Not that it's helped me on these, but in general if you have a nut or bolt that won't come free, try heating it with a propane torch (or something hotter if you have it). Just keep away from the fuel lines.

Steve
Steve Aichele

Steve,
Yes,
I sheared the nut and part of the stud.
The majority of the stud is still there so I believe I'll be able to attach and keep lateral movement from allowing the strap to slip side ways off.

Thanks a bunch all.

Doug
DT Toms

This thread was discussed between 27/09/2004 and 28/09/2004

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