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MG MGB Technical - Cable clutch?
|Having to bleed my clutch again for the umpteenth time, I was wondering if anyone has converted to a cable operated clutch. Just a thought! 1968 B roadster|
|To answer your question: no I haven't!|
My question is: why do you have to bleed the clutch so many times...?
|Willem vd Veer|
I've always worked on the principle that to replace a non working system with a completely different system is not a good idea, all you get is the hard work of replacing it and a completely different set of problems, far better to get to the bottom of the original problem.
If the existing problem is because the system is fundamentally flawed then I'd change it for something else, in your case I don't think this applies. The hydraulic system is a good self adjusting system.
|Steve - You might try getting a power bleed set up an push fluid into the system from the bottom up. You can even do this by running a hose from the right front brake caliper bleed screw to the clutch cylinder bleed screw. I believe that it was Paul Hunt who recommended this system. Cheers - Dave|
|I had the same idea of a cable conversion years ago when my|
slave cylinder decided to suddenly fail while driving about town.
It gave very little warning. 2-3 gear changes...and first the pedal
felt soft...then the pedal would go to the floor when pressed
with no resistance felt.
The same thing happened to a friend of mine in his Honda Civic.
He carried a spare clutch cable and it took him all of 5 minutes to
change it while on roadside and he was good to go again.
I could never find a suitable cable that would reach from the port
side of the car to the starboard side (U.S. left hand drive pedal
A very bad unreliable idea. I have owned few cable clutch cars, an example Volvo 242GT and sometimes clutch cable will break without any warning. Hydraulic clutches are extremly reliable, I have same hydraulic system on my '75 TR6; and clutch operation is smoother in hydaulic system.
|Jean Guy Catford|
|Steve, If you know there is nothing wrong with Master and slave cylinder units try this.|
When bleeding the clutch, open the bleed screw, press the pedal down, hold it down, tighten the bleed screw then let the pedal up only after the screw has been tightened. repeat this several times.Obviously a two man job
Very often what happens is that air is drawn back into the system around the threads of the screw. Tightening it first stops this from happening. Its the same procedure when doing the brakes. Hope this helps.
|David DuBois, could you use an Ezi-Bleed system on the Brake master cylinder with this solution?|
This thread was discussed between 08/04/2011 and 11/04/2011
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