Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.
MG MGB Technical - caster camber angles
|Hi guys, Could someone please tell me whether the caster and camber angle on a 1966 b roadster can be adjusted. Alan.|
No adjustmemt as such.
However shims or wedges are available to place between the cross member and chassis frame to alter caster.
Alternative lower wishbones are available to alter camber (these provide negative camber)
These are both modifications to the suspension rather than means of adjustment.
The only actual adjustment provided for is toe in.
Whats the problem?
|The problem is the Castor I think because on turning, the steering wheel will not return to centre and it is also hard steering to turn. Would castor adjustment make it easier to steer?|
|The problem is rather in the shafts alignment to the universal joint level, steering column and steering rack shaft.|
|Thanks for that Michel. I will check the steering column alignment.|
Your two problems point to something else.
But first - Reducing the castor will make the steering lighter, but will actually reduce the self centering effect as well, so as you are having both heavy steering and lack of self centre it is probable that there is some stiffness somewhere.
Jack the front of the car up, you should be able to easily turn the wheels from lock to lock by pushing/pulling on the front and rear sides of one of the front wheels.
If any stiffness is present then it is a matter of working through the greasing of the king pins, oil lube in the rack, misalignment of the steering column and pinion shaft.
You can isolate various items by disconnecting the universal joint, removing the steering box damper, unscrewing each tie rod end (COUNT THE TURNS) But I woild look at the grease points (king pin) and steering box oil (ep90) first.
|With the stock caster angle the car will be quite hard to manouvre at parking speeds, but as soon as you are moving it will lighten up with excellent feel and self centering.|
|Ian, I have had the steering box out and put new king pin bushes in and top and bottom pins and bushes. I will check the realignment of the steering column and will get the wheel alignment checked.|
I will isolate the steering column as I think that is where the problem may be.
|Stan hi and thanks also for your response. I will get the wheel alignment checked and if it is correct then I can move on from there.|
Loosen off the 4 steering box mounting bolts.
If the stiffness goes, problem is in the steering column/pinion shaft alignment, and you will have to align the two shafts using a couple of 'pointers' or cones as shown in the manual.
|I'd be quite surprised if misalignment of the shafts were the cause of stiffness, unless it were impossibly gross. Misalignment usually causes rapid wear of the bearing and bush in the rack, and as such is only identifiable after the event. Stiffness is more often caused by someone having the incorrect shims on the pinion, to try and correct wear in the pinion or rack. But all it does is remove slop in the straight-ahead position and substitute stiffness everywhere else. With the front wheels off the ground moving the steering from lock to lock by the *road* wheels should be very free, once you have overcome the initial inertia. But don't bang it from lock to lock. With the front wheels off the ground you should be able to move the steering wheel from lock to lock with the little finger of a 2-year old.|
|Paul Hunt 2|
B sure to get back to this thread when you find the problem. Its alwas interesting to find out what the problem actually was.
This thread was discussed between 14/02/2006 and 21/02/2006
MG MGB Technical index
This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.