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MG MGB Technical - Changing Oil

Do most of you change the oil before you store the car for the winter and do you attempt to drain the oil cooler and lines when you empty the crankcase? If so, how do you do it?
Joe

Joe, I don't know if it's an improved method but I drain than replace the plug, fill w/light weight oil of same mfg. (Castrol) run approx 1/2 hr. The drain again, replace filter and refill w/Castrol 20w50.
Ken Knize

Joe,

I always perform my major tune-ups in the fall of each year starting with an oil change. Dirty oil contains the by-products of combustion which will attack the bearings. Up in Massachusetts you most likely will be storing your car for a few months and you shouldn't leave that old oil in the sump for extended periods.

Ken's method sounds fine, although he doesn't have the problems we have with temperature and weather. Here in Delaware I drive year round as the weather permits. Don't like the salt they use on the roads here, so my MG's can sit until the roads are clear!

Regards,

L.C. '74 B/GT
Larry C.

Hi,
The idea behind changing oil before storing a car for an extended period of time is that the old oil contains acids and other contaminants picked up and suspended in the oil by the detergent which can attack the bearings and Oil seals over time. I would definately change motor oil and filter also run the engine for a short period of time fill the gas tank and add a gas stabilizer I use STP and get it to the carb before shutdown. I also use a fogger which is basically lube sprayed into the carb with the engine running , do this outside of course, and thats about it for the engine and fuel system . Thats my 2cents worth

Cec
Cec

The oil cooler can be drained, but it must be removed to do so. Remove the line from the rear of the block and the line to the oil filter, drain and re-install. Ken's method makes good sense and is a lot less work. I would change the oil and filter, run as per his directions, then change oil and filter again. As Cec notes, the problem is acids building up in the oil and, possibly, excess gasoline (if you are running rich). Ken's method should take care of both of these problems. Cec's advise about gas stabilizer is excellent and, if you put it in before your run the engine up with the clean oil, should ensure it gets to the carbs and all of the old gas is used up, leaving only the gas with stabilizer in the system. This may cut down on the varnish deposits that develop, but I have not had the opportunity to find out myself. The real solution is to move to Arizona (everyone else is, why not you?) and drive year round. When I lived up north, my MGA was a daily driver and got washed at the "quarter car wash" on a regular basis during winter. I still own it after more than 25 years. Will "restore" it whenever I get time. Les
Les Bengtson

This thread was discussed between 20/10/2001 and 21/10/2001

MG MGB Technical index

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