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MG MGB Technical - Clock Removal
|What is the proper way to remove a non-functioning clock on a 1979 MGB ? I would like to insert a voltage gague of the same diameter in the hole.|
|Clock removal procedure is located in Section N of your Bentley manual.|
For wiring the voltage guage look at the wiring diagram for a triumph at http://www.advanceautowire.com click on stock schematic. You will note BL has the voltage guage wired to the white wire circuit.
|I was tempted to replace the clock in my ’77 with a volt meter, but couldn’t bring myself to do it since the clock was so accurate (twice a day at 7:14 and six seconds). That was just a joke; the clock is really accurate so I gave up the idea of replacing it.|
|Kimberly, Thanks for the advice on clock removal. The task was completed in less than a minute.|
What is the location on the fuse box that is HOT only when the ignition key is turned to the START, ON or ACCESSORY position ?
Also, if the wires going to the clock are left disconected, will this cause any problems ?
Again, Thanks for all of your help in the past and present.
Regarding the fuse box
There is no terminal or fuse for the accessory position.
There is no terminal or fuse for the start position.
Power to the third fuse is controlled by the ignition switch in the run position. Terminal 5 is the unfused side of the fuse.
As for the clock wiring, make sure the end of the purple wire is insulated so it does not cause a short.
|2nd fuse up from the bottom is ignition, unfused on the front (white or white/brown) and fused on the back (green). You might be tempted to use the green, but this will have a lower voltage than the white and show more variation as loads are switched on and off. This can lead you think you have low charging voltage when you haven't, it's just your fusebox and connections showing their age. Use the white with an in-line fuse to the voltmeter, close to the fusebox.|
The purple is fused so won't cause any damage as such if it shorts out, but if the fuse blows you will lose your interior lights and more importantly horns.
|Paul Hunt 2|
|Kimberly and Paul, Once again, thank you for your guidance in helping me fit the votmeter. The task is complete and the meter is registering 14.2 volts when accelerating. I am thinking about placing a plaque under the bonnet stating, " this MG is running, thanks to help received from Kimberly and Paul Hunt".|
If either of you ever get to Vermont,USA ,a pint or two is waiting for you.
|Paul Hunt 2|
|Davy: My clock in my 79 MGB is corect twice a day.|
My thought process is also to change the clock out for an ammeter. If you would consider lending a hand to a fellow MGB owner to complete this task. I would be greatful... Plus I would spring for the pints
P.S. Rosemary & I enjoyed the Woodstock British Car show. The venue was great.. Thanx for the invite
|Don't fit an ammeter! With rare exceptions they need thick, unfused wires which can short out and go open-circuit bringing everything to a halt, and when everything is hunky-dory it takes close examination to see if it is showing a small charge or a small discharge. |
If you really must then fit a voltmeter. At least they can be fused, are independant of all other circuits (i.e. a failure in the voltmeter won't affect anything else) and they show clearly the difference between charging and not charging. Just don't get paranoid about the absolute charge voltage.
|Paul Hunt 2|
|How could you remove the Clock? In my MGB world it is always within 30 minutes of 6 o'clock as the hour hand is permanently frozen.|
In fact my MGB is called Dorian, because my wife and I are convinced while we are in the car, we do not age.
|If you are going to fit a condition meter, fit the voltmeter. It's low current so easier to fit, if it's fused then a failure will not stop the car, and if you know what you are looking at (and it is all here on this board) it tells you a more, including how your battery is feeling this morning. I think that the B up in the garage and me have sort of inverse Dorain Gray relationship, it looks pretty much how it did in 1967 while I have aged.|
|Is there an inexpensive way to fix the clock?? If I could remove it without it being a major event and repair it I would|
A new clock goes for about $100.00 and I am not about to spend it on a clock. The voltmeter would be a better idea for far less investment. I imagine these items are sold fusible as to protect the circuitry as noted in Paul's posting.
Thanx for that input, Paul.
|My clock has worked flawlessly in the ten years I've had the car, but is never correct. Short of disconnecting the power in a timely manner, I have no way to set the hands to the proper time.|
|There should be a button on the front to push and turn to move the hands. If no button is there a hole where one should be?|
|Paul Hunt 2|
There are two versions of the clock that I'm aware of. One has a metal knob that was cast onto the adjustment shaft. I've never found a failure of the adjustment mechanism in this type. The other type uses a plastic knob that was pressed onto the knurled end of the adjustment shaft. These usually come loose and spin freely relative to the adjustment shaft. I have repaired the latter type by applying a drop of super glue to the shaft and pushing the plastic knob back on.
If that's not the problem you're having - never mind!
In general I've found these clocks to be very good and usually quite accurate. Considering the bad rap that the electrics have in general (personally I do not ascribe to that) this is one of the few cars of the era that the clock continued to funtion past the original warranty period. In the case of my daily driver, it's going on 29 years!
|My clock has the black plastic knob that is pressed on. I pulled it off and find no knurling on the adjustment shaft. I will try your method of repair, but even pressing the shaft in and turning it with my mole grips, the hands only "want" to adjust, without actually moving. I do thank you and Paul for your suggestions.|
|Another thought here... If there is a bind in the adjustment shaft, I might as well remove the bezel and inner workings from the case to investigate. I've had good luck in refurbishing the gauges for my '71 project, so there's nothing lost in disassembling the clock for my daily driver.|
This thread was discussed between 17/09/2007 and 25/09/2007
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