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MG MGB Technical - Clutch Line Modifications

Has anyone come up with a better way to route the clutch line so that it is not higher than the reservoir which seems to create all the problems associated with bleeding it? I'll be doing a complete resto and bend my own lines so I'm thinking of doing some mods to make life a bit easier going forward. BTW, I wonder why the clutch hard line is 1/4" rather than the 3/16" used for the brake lines. Can I substitute a 3/16" line?
Mike Magee

Even better I filled mine using a gunsons EeziBleed from the slave bleed nipple. No mods, no bleeding, just fill it up and drive away.
Paul Hunt

Mike,
I believe the clutch line is larger due to both the increased movement and speed required for acceptable clutch actuation. Properly adjusted brake hydraulics have very short movements in comparison to clutch hydraulics.
Doug
D Sjostrom

Mike, I believe you can not go with a 3/16" line. It seems a lot of people have changed the pivot locations of their pedal assemblies to achieve increased pedal leverage - ie: greater force applied to the pads. With the increased piston travel in the master cylinder, one would suspect that a smaller line could work, but the volume reduction of changing the line from 1/4" to 3/16" would drop fluid flow by 56%. I'm not sure the brake master cylinder could handle that kind of modification, or the clutch master for that matter.
Jeff.


Jeff Schlemmer

Problem is the return stroke and that the reduced flow in the smaller line may not give the slave cylinder time to fully return during a quick double declutch. This being the case there is a risk of pumping the slave piston and cup out of the cylinder. Don't do it.

I've bled many such systems and the fact that the outlet bend is the highest point is of no significance. If the master cylinder is in good condition it will soon fill the line. Just remember that the nipple should always be closed during the pedal upstroke for best results. Unfortunately this necessitates a two man/woman job.
Iain MacKintosh

I have used Paul Hunts method. It is very effective. I found it to be too effective for one man operation. You need one person looking into the master cylinder while the other one is ready with a spanner on the slave bleed. My bigest error was to use a fully inflated tyre to provide the pressure. The result - hydraulic fluid everywhere! My car paint work was pleased that it was silicone fluid but my wallet was not

David
David Witham

Ah, the very low pressure means it fills slowly and if as soon as you see the fluid rise above the internals you have plenty of time to get underneath (depending on speed of movement I suppose) to shut the bleeder then top off from above as normal.

The pipe bore has no effect on how much the pedal has to move to disengage or engage the clutch. Taking up any wear in the pedal hole, push-rod and clevis, and possibly the pedal pivot, should be all that is necessary to restore the clutch biting point.
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 21/02/2004 and 23/02/2004

MG MGB Technical index

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